Do I NEED a transmission cooler with the PI 3000 StALL converter,3.73 Gears?
And is there anything else I need when doing this swap?
Do I NEED a transmission cooler with the PI 3000 StALL converter,3.73 Gears?
And is there anything else I need when doing this swap?
NEED? No...but is it good insurance for a very expensive transmission? Absolutely...you can buy a good cooler for under $50...
One question? Why are you putting in 3.73s? That's only 5% up from the stock 3.55s...you won't notice enough difference to be worth the effort and expense...
The Blackbird
Trilogy #61
Driveway Queen
The Spruce Goose
2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
Daily Driver
Oh Sorry I dont have a MM, I have Crown Vic Sport comes with 3.27'sOriginally Posted by RF Overlord
Ah. That's makes a lot more sense... 3.73s are to a CV like 4.10s are to an MM...Originally Posted by Doobie1
...but that leads me to another question: the CV has the 2V motor with a lower redline than the Marauder 4V...are you sure putting a 3000 stall converter AND 3.73s isn't going a little over the top?
The Blackbird
Trilogy #61
Driveway Queen
The Spruce Goose
2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
Daily Driver
Hummm shouldnt be...only 1 way to find out!!Originally Posted by RF Overlord
Get a tranny temp gauge, I'd say this is a must for safe operations under stress.
Next, "needing" a tranny cooler is a judgement call, some of which depends on where you live, and how you drive the car. Based on your selected mods, I'll presume that you will be driving your MM with spirit, and I'll suggest that a tranny cooler can't hurt.
I've got a Stallion PI with a 3500 stall too. It's a 9" converter and very effecient in delivering power to the drivetrain. However, a 3500 stall will trigger major, but temporary spikes in fluid temp under power. The 4R70(75)W tranny is very sensitive to heat. It will tolerate spikes in temp, but once a line is crossed, the tranny will burn up fast. Why chance beating the Devil? It's not an expensive mod.
I have the Ford Racing tranny cooler, P/N M-7095-SR. It's a "stacked plate" design made by B&M boasting of a 35% increase in cooling. Of course, "stacked plate vs. fin and tube" designs could become another supercharger thread of opinion, so, best to make you own mind. It weighs 2.5 pounds and measures 11"X7.5"X.75", relatively easy to mount almost anywhere you get fresh air blown in. It has a full 18,000 GVW rating, so it should be adequate for almost all driving conditions you may expect to see with your MM. It's 49.95 in the '05 Ford Racing catalogue, I recall paying closer to 80 bucks a few years ago. You could probably get the original B&M cooler from Summit or Jegs, sorry I don't have those P/Ns handy.
My cooler is mounted in my driver's side fenderwell, between the tire and the fog lamp assembly. It gets a nice breeze from the lower grille area and it's installed to cool fluid after it's circulated through the OEM cooler. This location works well for air circulation while protecting from road hazzards. Considering the power I'm putting through the tranny and to the back wheels (478RWHP/434RWTQ), in the 3 years it's been at work, it hasn't failed, nor have I had any tranny problems related to heat spikes.
If you think you may be hitting it real hard, you may want to consider a deep tranny pan. There are several available, but all are very similar. They are a tad more expensive in the mod scale, but adding two quarts to your capacity, as well as additional cooling fins to the outside of the pan works to reduce fluid temps, and keeps an adequate supply of cool fluid on tap.
The Ford Racing pan is cast aluminum, with .50 thick flange. It comes with allen bolts, P/N M-7195-4R, 195.00 in the '05 catalogue. BTW, my "1x" is only 4.5 inches off the ground at the firewall, but this pan tucks in nicely, and my exhaust is closer to the ground. This pan will fit any MM without any problems.
Again, get a tranny temp gauge, and good luck.
BTW, there will be exhausting discussions on where to tap in for the most accurate fluid temps. This too, will be reduced to opinion vs. opinion.
I have a 04 Crown Vic Sport not a MM, BTW Thanks for the advice!!Originally Posted by SergntMac
Last edited by Doobie1; 04-12-2005 at 11:21 AM.
I see that now, but I don't see a need to change my advice. Pick what fits for your CVS, happy motoring.Originally Posted by Doobie1
Originally Posted by SergntMac
I don't want to start a 'war' here, but I too have mounted my auxillary transmission cooler (B&M fan assisted model) after the OEM cooler.
I've read several threads where this has been debated in regards to maintaining a minimum operating temperature for correct functioning of the 4R70W....
Is it that 'big a deal' whether you plumb it before of after the OEM cooler???
2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual
SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
B&M Trans cooler w/fan, Level 10 Shift Kit, Art Carr Hughes Deep Sump Trans Pan,
SVO Rearend Girdle, Redline Gear lube; OEM 3.55s
'Real Gauges' + matching Trans Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure, Vacuum/Boost Gauge
Built: 10/15/02 Bought: 12/16/02 Sold: 10/15/18
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