Overheating

[arogant]

MY father-in-law took his 03 Marauder to the local shop to have the rad flushed and filled, they also changed the thermostat. The shop could not keep the car from overheating no matter what they tried after flushing out the rad and also changed the thermostat 3 times. They had the car for 3 day and could not fix the problem. He took the car home and we have been working on it for 2 days now. We tried "burping" the air out at the crossover tube, changed thermostats, and also checked the electric fan and the car still overheats. We did a search and used all the tips but still no luck. We are 100% sure the thermostat is not opening because the hose below the "Y" where the thermostat stays cold even when the car overheats, same with the antifreeze in the radiator reservoir. We removed the thermostat and burped out the air and car runs cool and does not overheat no matter how long we drive it. So we are positive the thermostat was and is not opening no matter which one we install. What is keeping the thermostat from opening? Anyone have any ideas?


Thanks,

[RF Overlord]

I assume the car didn't have overheating problems before he took it in...

This might sound stupid, but are you all SURE the thermostats are being installed right-side-up? The "body" of the 'stat goes "up" (into the housing)...and the O-ring goes after the 'stat...then the system HAS to be filled from the opening in the cross-over...it's not just for burping...

[MENINBLK]

MY father-in-law took his 03 Marauder to the local shop to have the rad flushed and filled, they also changed the thermostat. The shop could not keep the car from overheating no matter what they tried after flushing out the rad and also changed the thermostat 3 times. They had the car for 3 day and could not fix the problem. He took the car home and we have been working on it for 2 days now. We tried "burping" the air out at the crossover tube, changed thermostats, and also checked the electric fan and the car still overheats. We did a search and used all the tips but still no luck. We are 100% sure the thermostat is not opening because the hose below the "Y" where the thermostat stays cold even when the car overheats, same with the antifreeze in the radiator reservoir. We removed the thermostat and burped out the air and car runs cool and does not overheat no matter how long we drive it. So we are positive the thermostat was and is not opening no matter which one we install. What is keeping the thermostat from opening? Anyone have any ideas?


Thanks,

Put the thermostat in a pot of water and boil it.
if it opens it is working.
if it doesn't then it is defective and your problem...

[arogant]

The car had no issues before he took it up to the local shop to have the system flushed because he was hitting 40K miles. Yes, we checked the thermostat on the stove - it opened up fine arount 185. The thermostat is about 2 1/2 inches long and will only fit into housing one way and then a "O" ring on top. WE fille the car from the bleeder hole on the crossover. When that did not work we drained it and then re-filled it with the engine running - still had the same problem. The only way to get the car run ok is to remove the thermostat and it runs completely normal. Is it possible that the shop got 3 wrong thermostats and them the 1 we bought at the parts store are all the wrong one? They all look the same (2 1/2 inches long) and different then any other thermostat I have seen. The shop claims it has a air bubble but they and I have bled the system many times with no luck.

[RF Overlord]

Wow...it does sound like you've done everything correctly...so now my second stupid question is: did the radiator shop disconnect any hoses, and are you all sure they're put back where they belong? I'm not even sure it's physically possible to put them back wrong...I've never tried...

[arogant]

I hope so, it looks like the hoses will not fit any other way because they are all different sizes. Does anyone have a diagram?

Wow...it does sound like you've done everything correctly...so now my second stupid question is: did the radiator shop disconnect any hoses, and are you all sure they're put back where they belong? I'm not even sure it's physically possible to put them back wrong...I've never tried...

[CRUZTAKER]

Let's hope the system just needs burped. Mine did this once.

The steel portion of the upper radiator pipe has a screw on top. Run the car to normal temp and carefully loosen that large philip screw to allow air to escape. You'll hear it hiss if there is air wanting to come out.

Once you get nothing but coolant and no more air/bubbles...you should be good to go.

[MENINBLK]

... and then re-filled it with the engine running...

You can't do this.
If air gets into the water pump it will churn it with the antifreeze and make a coolant malted.
When the air settles out of the coolant it end up inside your block.

I know this sounds like its a bia*ch to do, but its just more time consuming than anything else....

Just fill the engine from the fitting on the upper coolant pipe with the cap on the coolant jar.
When it won't take any more coolant, slowly open the coolant jar, and let some of the coolant drop.
Close the coolant jar and refill through the upper pipe.
When you get the coolant jar up to the COLD FILL line and the pipe is full,
close everything and lock up the fitting.
Start the engine and let it get warm.
Once its warm, shut it down and wait about 10 - 15 minutes.

Use the coolant jar cap to release any pressure on the system, then replace the coolant jar cap and open the fitting.
Once the fitting is off, resume filling the pipe.
Lock the pipe when its full.
Restart the engine and run till it gets warm again.

You may have to do this a few times to get most of the air out.
Once it will run without overheating, you'll need to get it out on the highway for about 5 - 10 minutes,
and then shut it down and let it cool off again to check for any more air.

It will take a day or two to the last bit of air to settle below the fitting.
Then you'll be set.

Oh...one last thing...Make sure you are running the HEATER while doing this.
As long as you can get HEAT, you'll know the coolant is CIRCULATING.
The Heater will also help to relieve some of the heat from the coolant.

[JACook]

Is it possible that the shop got 3 wrong thermostats and them the 1 we bought at the parts store are all the wrong one? They all look the same (2 1/2 inches long) and different then any other thermostat I have seen.

In addition to the other excellent suggestions you've already been given, I would also suggest you go
buy a new thermostat from a Ford or L/M dealer. It's entirely possible that the thermostats you've been
getting are just not quite right. The MM cooling system is kinda picky, as you've already discovered,
and unfortunately, a lot of aftermarket replacement parts just don't quite measure up to the quality
of the original stuff.

[Bluerauder]

Put the thermostat in a pot of water and boil it.
if it opens it is working.
if it doesn't then it is defective and your problem...

Seems that I recall that Murader03 had a thermostat sticking problem back in April 2004 just after the Philly Cruise. There was a thread on that report which detailed his problems.