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Thread: Zex Install

  1. #1

    Zex Install

    Well we finished this today, its not a easy install with the complete kit with purge and bottle heater and bottle opener but when done on a 100 shot the car made 350 RWHP and 363 RWT, I do not have the dyno sheets here but will post them later. Along with shots of the Kooks.








  2. #2
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    I see on your sig you have 301 rwhp...with the Zex you have 350 rwhp with a 100 shot??? Explain incase Im stupid. As for the install, I have been seriously considering this setup, but am wondering a few things....1st, what can one expect to pay for an install say without the heater and opener? Do you have the 125hp jet as well, and would you reccomend it? What does this do for your 1/4 mile time? Is it worth a full second? And last, will the dry system ruin your engine? Do you need any specific tune?


    Looks nice by the way.....
    RIP 03 Procharged Marauder/FIT Kit #3.
    New Toy: 2001 Mustang GT built motor, heads, cams, and a Procharger D1sc. 539rwhp 457rwtq 11.5@125 on stock rear end and bald drag radials.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by MarauderMarc
    I see on your sig you have 301 rwhp...with the Zex you have 350 rwhp with a 100 shot??? Explain incase Im stupid. As for the install, I have been seriously considering this setup, but am wondering a few things....1st, what can one expect to pay for an install say without the heater and opener? Do you have the 125hp jet as well, and would you reccomend it? What does this do for your 1/4 mile time? Is it worth a full second? And last, will the dry system ruin your engine? Do you need any specific tune?


    Looks nice by the way.....
    This was not my car it was a customers car, and it took about 6 hours to install the complete kit, he is taking the car to the Heavy weight shoot out, so will wait and see about track times, the car on no N2O made about 275 RWHP I will post the sheets tomorrow.

  4. #4
    Here is the N/A dyno sheet



    here is the 100 shot


  5. #5
    Join Date
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    With respect to DR Automotive and to the member who asked questions about installation without the purge kit, bottle warmer and remote opener, may I offer my installation of the basic Zex kit as another example.
    The cost for a local shop here to do it was $350.00.

    I paid that to my son, the import mechanic, in contract to do my install.

    He located the bottle on the drivers side shelf in the trunk (where the cut-off switches are located) and bolted it down. Clearance was tight but adequate.
    He routed the line through the front wall of the trunk next to the gas tank and used a stock grommet that was left in the trunk during assembly. He took out the carpet first and made the necessary cuts.

    Next he routed the braided nitrous line through the inside of the frame along side the stock fuel line. Apparently there are enough predrilled holes in the frame to accomodate this.

    Next he fabricated a shelf for the distribution module and a multiangled bracket, all made from sheet metal and overlayed with carbon fiber for bling factor. He mounted this assembly under the cruise control module using the existing hardware. That also was the ground wire attachment point.

    He then mounted the nozzel on the underside of the RAI tube of my JLT intake system and routed the lines to the distribution module. The fuel input was taken from the drivers side fuel rail by removing the Shraeder adapter.
    We used the 100 shot jets.

    The electrical wires were enclosed in a plastic harness and routed through the firewall via a new hole and grommet. The 12V pick-up was taken from the cigarette lighter fuse connection. (fuse box must be removed for this)

    In my case the arming switch was placed in the dummy pop out next to the truck open push button on the drivers door (04 model). The wiring was run through the door electrical harness to the kick panel and connected to the wiring coming from the engine bay through the fire wall. Door panel must be removed for this position of the arming switch. Others my opt for different locations.

    The whole installation looks very tight and is easy to service and presents a pleasing appearance. This took the better part of a day. If one was to do this again, it would be less time.

    As for performance. My time without nitrous and with my street tune was 14.7. With the nitrous and switching to the nitrous tune in my XCal-1 my time was 13.8, same night, same strip, time frame of one hour. A note: with traction control off the tires just smoked for half the strip with an ET of 16.4
    With traction control on and no burn-out, street KDW2's, I had just a small bark off the line and I was gone for a 13.8 ET. No detonation heard or felt.
    Car just pulled strong all the way. No Fast and Furious I, II, II or IV effect.
    This was full WOT off the line, no tip in.
    Last edited by Pat; 10-22-2005 at 08:01 PM.

  6. #6
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    So Pat, you are running a wet kit? Do you reccomend that over a dry kit? Why? Sorry to ask all these questions, but its my next major mod that Im considering.
    RIP 03 Procharged Marauder/FIT Kit #3.
    New Toy: 2001 Mustang GT built motor, heads, cams, and a Procharger D1sc. 539rwhp 457rwtq 11.5@125 on stock rear end and bald drag radials.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarauderMarc
    So Pat, you are running a wet kit? Do you reccomend that over a dry kit? Why? Sorry to ask all these questions, but its my next major mod that Im considering.
    This is my first experience with nitrous and after extensive reading felt that the wet kit offered more safety (against detonation) than a dry kit.

    It's like buying a bottle of chocolate milk from the store, it's pre-mixed and tastes good. If you mix your own (as in a dry system) you have to know what your doing, Fuel/gas ratio is critical or your engine suffers detonation.

    Also the installation is simpler. So, for the beginner, a wet kit would be my recommendation. As you progress in experience and knowledge then a more complex dry system may be appropriate. But, all of the street systems I've seen are wet, the dry's are usually used on full out race cars of the trailered variety.
    Last edited by Pat; 10-22-2005 at 08:21 PM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by pat
    It's like buying a bottle of chocolate milk from the store, it's pre-mixed and tastes good.
    Well Pat, it all depends, are we talking Oberwies Dairy or Nesquick?

  9. #9
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    Thats odd, Ive always thought it was the other way around. I was told that a wet kit is more complex and a dry kit is safer. They make all of these dry kits now for stock cars.....man I am confused. Matbe Ill just get a supercharger.
    RIP 03 Procharged Marauder/FIT Kit #3.
    New Toy: 2001 Mustang GT built motor, heads, cams, and a Procharger D1sc. 539rwhp 457rwtq 11.5@125 on stock rear end and bald drag radials.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarauderMarc
    Thats odd, Ive always thought it was the other way around. I was told that a wet kit is more complex and a dry kit is safer. They make all of these dry kits now for stock cars.....man I am confused. Matbe Ill just get a supercharger.
    OK Dennis, there's your cue.







    1% FF.

  11. #11
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    No really, I was told that a wet kit has to be a perfect mix of fuel and N2O and some other things or you will blow your engine. I was told that a dry kit was safer and has a much lower probability of engine problems. So I have been researching a dry kit from zex that seemed like the good pick. Then I saw the exact kit on this thread and am picking you guys' brains so I make the right decision and dont ruin my baby....I do plan on adding a supercharger this winter, so maybe that will add to my decision. Any help, thoughts, EXPERT advice would be greatly appreciated.
    RIP 03 Procharged Marauder/FIT Kit #3.
    New Toy: 2001 Mustang GT built motor, heads, cams, and a Procharger D1sc. 539rwhp 457rwtq 11.5@125 on stock rear end and bald drag radials.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarauderMarc
    No really, I was told that a wet kit has to be a perfect mix of fuel and N2O and some other things or you will blow your engine. I was told that a dry kit was safer and has a much lower probability of engine problems. So I have been researching a dry kit from zex that seemed like the good pick. Then I saw the exact kit on this thread and am picking you guys' brains so I make the right decision and dont ruin my baby....I do plan on adding a supercharger this winter, so maybe that will add to my decision. Any help, thoughts, EXPERT advice would be greatly appreciated.
    I've had the Zex kit and now a Supercharger. Don't beat around the bush with the Zex if you intend to SC your just wasting your money. That is my opinion.
    05 - SRT-10 Truck, Viper V10, 6-Speed, 92 of 200 in white.
    06 - Mercedes R350
    65 - Mustang Convertible

    03 MM:
    Black, Cd Changer. Sold

    Current Mods: Vortech air to air supercharger #1, SCT B2400 MAF, 42 lbs. Injectors, K&N, Custom Air box, Twin Cobra Fuel pumps, Stage II trans, PI 3000 Stall Converter, MM drive shaft, DR cooling mod, FRPP 4.10’s, FRPP girdle cover/stud kit, Motorcraft Plugs, 180 Stat., 9100 SCT, Mac n' Zack Rear Control Arms, Full Kook's exhaust..


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat
    OK Dennis, there's your cue.
    Ok Dennis, here is your cue. Again.......
    05 - SRT-10 Truck, Viper V10, 6-Speed, 92 of 200 in white.
    06 - Mercedes R350
    65 - Mustang Convertible

    03 MM:
    Black, Cd Changer. Sold

    Current Mods: Vortech air to air supercharger #1, SCT B2400 MAF, 42 lbs. Injectors, K&N, Custom Air box, Twin Cobra Fuel pumps, Stage II trans, PI 3000 Stall Converter, MM drive shaft, DR cooling mod, FRPP 4.10’s, FRPP girdle cover/stud kit, Motorcraft Plugs, 180 Stat., 9100 SCT, Mac n' Zack Rear Control Arms, Full Kook's exhaust..


  14. #14
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    Now Im Confused too. I have Always heard from Friends that have raced and from tidbits I have Read on the internet that a Wet System is the Safest way to go. You wont have to worry about a Lean Condition or Detonation due to a lack of fuel when the NOS is injected.

    Can someone Please Chime in and Settle this Debate!!

    BTW, Like was Said before, if you plan on going with a SC install, NOS would be a waste of Money

    2003
    MERCURY MARAUDER 300A

    Build Date
    5/31/02
    Sequence#
    #363 of 7839 Black Marauders
    Dyno tested power
    450 RWHP & 405 RWTQ on 93 octane
    Best 1/4 mile time to date
    12.456@109mph
    Visit my Garage
    Blackened300a's Garage



  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackened300a
    Now Im Confused too. I have Always heard from Friends that have raced and from tidbits I have Read on the internet that a Wet System is the Safest way to go. You wont have to worry about a Lean Condition or Detonation due to a lack of fuel when the NOS is injected.

    Can someone Please Chime in and Settle this Debate!!

    BTW, Like was Said before, if you plan on going with a SC install, NOS would be a waste of Money
    Hey y'all. The car that Dennis put the kit in was mine FYI. I will try to answer your concern as best I can but I am no expert by any means.

    A Wet Kit is relatively safer that a Dry kit in so far as detonation, because both fuel and N2O are mixed in the intake tube, but as with all N2O timing is crucial. The ZEX wet kit 82023# is a really smart set up, I mean the N2O box is smart itself. Zex designed it so that it will add or decrease the fuel spray based on bottle pressure. (see below). Detonation is always a concern but if you pull some timing globally you should not have a problem at all. In fact my A/F is perfect on the spray as you can see from the dyno sheets. 11.7 is perfect. To be safe we pulled 4 on the timing for the 100 shot, but we probably could have gotten away with 2, but I like to play it safe and Steve and Dennis agreed that 4 is a good place for it for now. I will post up some time slips for everyone ASAP, if I can get to Commerce this Friday night. My only problem is that I only have stock tires at this point so I will have to either ease into it or keep the system off untill 2nd gear, then activate it. Hope this helped. Oh and BTW Dennis, Steve, Arthur & Terry kicked ass and took names as usual. No one has ever or will ever work on my car but them and my humble self. EXCELLENT WORK AND EXCELLENT TIMES WITH DR AS ALWAYS!!!!!

    P.S. Debbie - Chevy will be rained out, ha ha ha, just kidding and watchout for those deer, they love Monte Carlo's from what I heard.


    From ZEX.COM

    • Designed to work safely on stock type engines, but is also engineered to perform flawlessly on highly modified turbocharged and supercharged combinations. The ideal nitrous system for any fuel injected vehicle.

    • All major components are factory pre-assembled inside the "Nitrous Management Unit". Easy, plug and play, two-hour installation.

    • ZEX Nitrous Systems have an advanced, patented feature called "Active Fuel Control". This feature monitors nitrous bottle pressure and adds or subtracts enrichment fuel so the engine never runs too rich, or too lean, when you engage the nitrous system.

    • ZEX "Wet" nitrous systems activate at wide-open throttle using advanced electronics that monitor your engine's throttle position sensor. This makes using your nitrous system very easy and reliable.
    Last edited by johnfain; 10-23-2005 at 10:16 PM.
    2005 GTO
    LS2, T-56, Diablo, SLP Strut Bar, GMM Ripshift, Taylor Battery Box, SLP Line Lock, MagnaFlow Exhaust, Russell SS Brakelines, NOS/NX Plate system 150, FJO Progressive Controller, SSBC Tri Piston Brakes, DBA Rotors, Kooks Long Tubes No Cats, NA
    534 RWHP

    2003 MM
    Novi 1200SL, Addco F/R Sway Bars, Metco U/L C Arms, Kooks-Jet Hot, Flowmaster 40s /MagnaFlow custom Exhaust, Art Carr Trans, PI3000, FR 4:10, Zex, Hurst RC, SC
    457 RWHP

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