If you had to replace your battery, what would you choose?
Motorcraft, Diehard, Duralast?
If you had to replace your battery, what would you choose?
Motorcraft, Diehard, Duralast?
2004 Trilogy #93P 12.2@113 Built and stalled
I went with an Optima, SpiralCelll battery.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_edge/
“When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
Ronald Regan
"The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."
Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters
“Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
"I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
General James Mattis
go to your ford dealer and get a group 65 with the ford warranty...is all you could want..
odyssey PC1700/65... You will need to trim the battery box a hair to make it fit, but they are the best batteries made.. There is a reason they have a contract with the military
One of the things I value most in a battery is it's ability to keep all it's acid inside. I've
had Interstates, Die Hards, and Duralasts, and all of 'em got the acid ooze all over the
tops, and tended to corrode the battery cables.
The Motorcrafts I've had stay clean. 'Nuff said.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'03 Marauder 300B, Dark Blue Pearl, Dark Charcoal/Flint interior, Badgeless front and rear, 4.10s and Lidio Tune
The OEM batt lasted exactly 2 years, the NAPA 13 months replaced free but why put up w/ that pos and the Optima is 16 months so far.
Diehard sells a pos battery w/ a money making warr for Sears. The batts keep failing and they "fu-rate" a new one. I quit buying them 10+ years ago.
1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
Kooks Headers & X Pipe
GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87
all my Motorcraft group 65s tend to last 100000 miles with no problems
The nice folks at Consumer Reports rate the yellow MAXX FROM wally world as a best buy
I had to call Ford Roadside assistance to get a jump start yesterday.
I asked the guys at work ( FLM dealership) to test the battery and charging system all checked out ok.
Car only cranked for thirty seconds and pooped out.
2004 Trilogy #93P 12.2@113 Built and stalled
Bosch for me.
Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
$1800 and it was worse than when he started!
Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker
03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
01 F150 longbed
01 F150 shortbed
00 F150 4x4 stepside
01 F150 4x4 7700
68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)
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