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Thread: Overheating...

  1. #1
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    Overheating...

    Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and have some problems I am sure you will be able to help with.
    When searching for some troubleshooting using google, yahoo, etc... I came across this site, and was actually excited. I had found something which was relatively helpful.
    Anyways, back to what I am here for. About a week ago, I was driving my 2003 Rauder when I just so happened to look down and realize I was dangerously near to overheating. I immediately pulled over and opened the hood, popped off the coolant reservoir lid and let her cool down. After about ten minutes of waiting, temperature had dropped greatly.
    To sum it up, I eventually had her towed to my aunt and uncle's house. I of course figured it was the thermostat because my heat had been acting up (not working properly, remaining cool even on the hottest setting etc.) After replacing the thermostat and refilling the coolant, the problem persisted.
    I then read a thread on here stating there could be air in the cross over pipe. After burping it and refilling it with coolant, I took her out around the block, temperature was in the normal zone and I thought I was in the clear. On my way home, I looked down again and realized it was high, not extremely high, but higher then normal. Upon almost getting home, the needle was nearly touching the red and I had to leap frog home (hit fifty, throw it in neutral, turn the car off, and coast, not healthy but it worked.)
    That is where I am at now, if anyone has any suggestions on what I could do next, I would appreciate it.
    I had a feeling it could be the coolant lid because the coolant is spilling out of the lid when it gets hot, not the overflow pipe. I thought that possibly the car could not build up pressure and suck in air.
    I also thought it could be the water pump, but I am quite positive the coolant is mixing with the water.
    If anyone could please post some suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.
    I apologize for grammar and structure.
    Thanks to everyone.

  2. #2
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    At what speeds? At highway speeds then check for excessive bugs,ect on front of radiator. At slower speeds then check to see if fan comes on. Also was the coolant low? Check passenger side floorboard for wetness (heater core). This is a good starting point. Give us the specifics.
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  3. #3
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    I think you still have air in the system, let the car cool down and back fill it but opening the plug on the crossover tube, then let the engine run with the plug cracked open, once the bubbles are gone you are good to go. Just crack it open once again during the week to be sure you got all the air out. Its a PITA but I think air is your problem.

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  4. #4
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    I agree with Paul. Let the car sit overnight, and crack the crossover opening open and let the car run until it gets about to or up to normal running temp and wait until the bubbles are gone.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by maraudermetz View Post
    After replacing the thermostat and refilling the coolant, the problem persisted.....

    You are not alone.
    Once a month someone posts the very same scenario here.

    Odds are good you still have air in the system,as was the case with all the other posters.

    Follow the instructions as posted above, and bleed the air from the vent screw.
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  6. #6
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    Something that really helps is to park the car with the front end HIGHER than the rear end (EG FACING UPHILL) when initally filling or burping the air out. Duncan and I did this after my Trilogy install, and we had no problems. Never had to burp the system at all since that first time, and the temp guage is still always in the middle.

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  7. #7
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    Thanks guys, I appreciate it a lot. I realized there are multiple posts like this and I probably should have looked. If the problem persists I will have to come here before anywhere else.
    Also, how can I be sure which class my car is, A or B.
    I heard A's have a different clock location? Can anyone elaborate? I can probably find it in another post.

    Thanks again everyone.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackened300a View Post
    I think you still have air in the system, let the car cool down and back fill it but opening the plug on the crossover tube, then let the engine run with the plug cracked open, once the bubbles are gone you are good to go. Just crack it open once again during the week to be sure you got all the air out. Its a PITA but I think air is your problem.

    Also agree with Paul. ^^^^^
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  9. #9
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    A's have a remote fuel door release, map pockets on the front seats, clock in the dash, and a full size spare.
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  10. #10
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    Hopefully the problem was solved by proper "burping"; sometimes a royal PITA. So far as deciding if you have an "A" or "B", it sometimes gets confusing, because there are some crossover, and decontented Marauders on the street with a mixture of components from each, sometimes making no sense whatever. Generally, though, Raudermaster's rule, works, most of the time.

    In any case, welcome to the site; we're happy you found us....

  11. #11
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    Still having the problem. About to go out and attempt it for the third time today. I am letting the car warm up, she hits normal temperature, and then I turn it off. Fill the cross-over tube, then leave the plug cracked and let it run. It seems as though I keep adding more and more coolant but it seems to have no affect on the reservoir. I have checked the oil and it is not milky. You guys suggest to just keep trying?

  12. #12
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    Adding coolant to the crossover will not affect the level in the reservoir, that is correct. You are replacing air trapped in the system.

    When I changed the thermostat in The Blackbird, I let it idle with the crossover cap installed loosely until it stopped fizzing and spitting, removed the cap and topped off the coolant level while it was still running, then replaced and tightened the cap.
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  13. #13
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    Well I made it somewhat better, or so I think, but not quite sure if I succeeded yet. Hah... I am terrible I know, I actually was forced to go to my nephew's birthday party... However, my temp gauge stayed at normal temp until I started the car nearly 2 hours later. Can anyone explain that one. I took her around the block, heat on, and heat off, and she seemed to hold steady. I am just concerned with the gauge.

  14. #14
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    Did the car show hot right away? It sat for two hours, and you started it and it was most, if not all the way to the H?
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  15. #15
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    maybe easier?

    Has anybody ever tried using a cooling system filler to prevent this from hapening?(puts a vacuum on system then sucks the coolant in)

    i have one of these a bit expensive but i know others are cheaper
    http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
    Last edited by imorb1994; 07-02-2008 at 05:43 PM. Reason: more info




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