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Thread: BASS LINK on Factory Harness Install

  1. #1
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    BASS LINK on Factory Harness Install

    ***PLEASE MAKE STICKY***

    With some phone assistance from Rich, Magindat, we learned some things today in regards to utilizing the MM factory rear sub/amp harness.

    I installed my Infinity Bass Link amp using all of the wires from my factory harness, and NOT running ANY additional wiring. Basically plug and play.

    Now I know this won't be right for everyone, seeing as how I cut my factory harness, and utilized the smaller factory wiring. Number one, I will never sell my MM. I do not care if I permanently modify oem harness'. Number two, I am not using high current equipment nor any high end equipment. I just wanted less package rattle. And it worked. I like the sound of my car better than any music anyway.

    The harness:

    The harness that connects to the factory amp consists of one removable piece that actually plugs into the amp (the pigtail), and the other end plugs into the oem harness located behind the carpeting on the back seat wall.
    The wires within the harness, and the pigtail change colors in the transition to the amp. Some wires within the pigtail are doubled up, (two wires of the same color on the same connector.
    Here are the wire identifications:

    HARNESS----------------------------------------------PIGTAIL
    black/green-----------------GROUND-------------------red - red
    red/yellow----------------Constant 12vdc--------------yellow-yellow
    blk/org-------------------low level signal*--------------green
    red/blk-------------------low level signal*--------------black
    green/blk-----------------switched 5vdc---------------white

    *The low level audio signal is a Balanced Line Level signal and carries an alternating current (AC Volts). If you use a meter set to A/C volts, the radio is on, and the radio's volume is up, you will see a voltage fluctuation, ie. a signal.

    The switched power, oddly enough is 5v when the radio and ignition is off.
    It bumps to around 7.85 vdc when the radio is on.
    The Infinity Bass Link requires a switched power lead rated between 5 and 12 vdc. It was found that our factory switched lead does indeed trigger the Bass Link appropriately.

    The Connections:

    I removed the pigtail and took it to the bench, and made my connections to the Bass Link there.
    I cut the the oem connector for the oem sub/amp about 4" from the connector, and saved the connector in the event someone wants my old oem unit and connector end to re-splice.



    I put both RED wires in a blue ring terminal, and landed them on the Bass Link's GROUND terminal.
    I put both YELLOW wires in a blue ring terminal, and landed them on the Bass Link's 12V terminal.
    I put the WHITE wire in a red ring terminal, and landed it on the REMOTE terminal.





    I bought a 3" RCA 'Y' cable, female to male-male.
    I bought another RCA male cable on one end, and open wired on the other end.
    I connected the GREEN low level signal wire to the RCA's center conductor. I connected the BLACK wire to the RCA's shield.
    There is no way to check polarity in this final connection.
    I soldered and heat shrunk these connections.





    You must test audio and listen to hear if the bass sounds (as Rich says muddy.
    This connection sounded ok to my ears.

    The only problem I have now is positioning, and how the hell to secure this thing. I am sooo leary of screwing through the floor board. I also need to stash the harness better, and clean up/cover the awefull hole in the carpeting left behind from Mercury which was blocked by the old amp.

    AND....How the hell did you guys remove the black mounting assembly that once held the front of the oem amp????

    2017 Niro

  2. #2
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    Thumbs up Nice Install Post!

    Very nice detailed install post with great pictures. What is the part number of the Bass Link?

    Thanks,

    Glenn
    Last edited by Glenn; 07-28-2008 at 04:40 PM.
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  3. #3
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    ^^^^^^+1
    Great pictures (as always) and nice write up. I'm sure it will help alot of guys.

    '98 MGM LS...sold..................... .............................. ..'03 300A...sold 6/17

  4. #4
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    Very nice, thanks. I read from roylpita that he adapted a fuel tank strap to mount his sub to the package tray. Gotta go to work now so I don't have time to locate the thread, but it was in the past 2 weeks.

    This was for a amp, but maybe it would work??? http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=45644
    Last edited by rayjay; 07-29-2008 at 03:17 AM.
    2004 DTR Marauder, Built 26 February 2004, Inservice: 02 July 2004 Retired from DD 17 July 2008. Survived the cut, 28 April 2012. Back as a DD as of 18 November 2012.

  5. #5
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    There is an honest 3/4" (probably a little more) between the top of the gas tank and the underside of the package tray.

  6. #6
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    Nice Barry. If I had to do it again I would pick your setup.


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  7. #7
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    Section 4 of the attachment talks about fuel tank considerations. Although this is for a 2007 CVPI, it is probably close enough for MMs.

  8. #8
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    Another try on the attachment...
    Ok - its too big.
    Can't figure out how to post. If anyone wants me to email a copy, IM me. It is the 2007 CVPI modification guide. It has a template with info on whre it is safe to drill through the deck over the fule tank.
    Last edited by Windsor58; 07-28-2008 at 07:17 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack View Post
    There is an honest 3/4" (probably a little more) between the top of the gas tank and the underside of the package tray.
    If he drills holes on the brackets towards the rear of the car, he will be INTO the gas tank, it butts right up to the floor in that location. There are some other ways to make that a good mounting location.

    I picked up another basslink at my local HH Gregg, they were closing them out, $125 and tax, it's always good to have a spare. Check your area, you may score a deal like I did.

  10. #10
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    Great info, thanks.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
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  11. #11
    That makes me want to go buy one now cause I thought it was going to be a PITA but that's cake wake stuff for me. Now mounting it will be another animal lol but I'll figure something out. Thanks for the great write up!

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  12. #12
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    This is a good one! I've been wanting this set up for awhile. Now I just have to keep the car!

    11.98 @ 115 mph
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFYANT View Post
    This is a good one! I've been wanting this set up for awhile. Now I just have to keep the car!
    Now you have a reason!
    2017 Niro

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the write-up. Very well done!!!!
    It's time to swap out the old speakers anyway!

  15. #15
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    YES!!

    Defyant saved by a subwoofer install!!!



    P.S. I wonder if we could buy that short OEM wiring harness from Ray The Dealer so we don't have to cut our factory set-up...?
    In regards to the mounting: Because Bass is non-directional could you mount the BASSLINK 'on end' using the existing OEM mount as an upper bracket?
    Last edited by Joe Walsh; 07-29-2008 at 06:38 AM.
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