Fuel Pump R&R

[Pat]

After consulting several threads/posts on replacing the fuel pump in the MM I was struck by the amount of time and effort used to disconnect the electrical plug on top of the fuel tank. I asked what does this connector feed......the pressure transducer.......why disconnect it.......no reason unless your removing the tank.

According to my brand new Chilton's manual at the library the replacement procedures for changing the fuel pump does not call for removing the connector in question nor does it call for lowering or removing the fuel tank.

Chilton's does give procedures for relieving fuel pressure and also for reestablishing fuel pressure after the pump is replaced.

There is a special tool needed to disconnect the fuel lines, but that was covered in posts here.

It seems to be a straight forward job, jack up the rear of the car, disconnect the battery, relieve fuel pressure, disconnect hoses and electrical connector from the fuel pump cover, removed cover/fuel pump assembly, change out the pump and reinstall in reverse order. (tank should be nearly empty) Reestablish fuel pressure after connecting up the battery by cycling the key off and on six times, (do not start the engine).

Did I miss something from previous procedures?

Pat

[Fourth Horseman]

Nope, it's very straight forward, or at least it was for me. There seems to have been a lot of fuel pump replacement posts around here lately, but I'll just say again what I've said in the other threads: it took me all of about 40 minutes to get the old pump out and my new Ford GT pump in. And that included some time BSing with my half brother who was helping me install my Vortech.

[FordNut]

Depends on whether you want to pull the whole thing out and work on a bench or if you want to leave it hanging by the wires and swap the pump while laying on your belly under the car.

[Fourth Horseman]

Depends on whether you want to pull the whole thing out and work on a bench or if you want to leave it hanging by the wires and swap the pump while laying on your belly under the car.

Yup, I stayed under the car and hooked it all up there. Piece of cake.

[B.C. Bake]

Here we go, just did this two days ago. Don't remove the tank, just lower it! If you remove the pass rear tire that connector your referring to is well exposed and easy to remove "at least for me", push down on top and pull walla. What stumped me is, I didn't know there was a special tool to remove the fuel line. All said it came out pretty easy, somewhat of a puzzle removing and installing the pump assy but can be done. I dissected the old pump and the electric motor armature was melted all to hell, thus not allowing it to turn dunno why, because it was in fuel? Oh yea, hope that you have less than 1/2 tank of fuel

[B.C. Bake]

Guess I should of read your whole post? If your pump went bad and you tried to start it there went your pressure. And there is a fuel line quick disconnect tool located at a good auto store, well I bout some metal anodized ones at pep boys for 19 and change, worked good. As far as repressurising the line I just turned the key started right up, Oh yea the check engine lite came on, so just had to disconnect the neg bat cable for a few seconds it goes away.

[juno]

Like 'nut said. Don't disconnect it unless you want to play with it on the bench. The only thing extra I did was remove the PS exhaust hanger to give me a little more wiggle room.

[Pat]

OK, Thanks guys for all your help and info, I'll be doing this swap Saturday. Off to the store for the fuel line disconnect tool and tie straps. I have a floor jack and jack stands.

Regards,

[Pat]

Well, my #2 son changed the fuel pump, followed pretty much what was previously posted by Juno.

He did not have to take off the electrical connector on top of the fuel tank, found out why it usually has to come off though. Seems like the wiring from/to that pesky connector runs into the fuel pump harness. Some cars have a little more slack than others I suppose.

Also he did not have to take off the fuel lines to the hat. Enough wiggle room. He did remove the clamp holding the passenger side exhause tip so the exhaust pipe can be moved a little for clearance.

The metal band securing the flex hose to the pump is a crimp on style and is difficult to remove with the amount of room available. Be carefuf not to damage the line or the pump. Replace the crimp band with a small adjustable clamp.

However, I would recommend that you use a lift if one is available. If using jack stands and laying on your back, disconnecting the plug at the top of the fuel tank and the fuel lines should allow more room to manuever the assembly, inspect the lines more closely and make removing the crimpled metal band from the flex line easier.

The tool from FLAPS that is supposed to help disconnect the fuel line for Ford cars doesn't. A tad too big.

Well, parts and labor $410.00 later and the problem still isn't fixed. It's becoming a real challenge.

Going to Dallas for some data logging on the dyno. Son says it feels like the car is going rich under mild to hard acceleration. normal or low load driving seems OK.

[B.C. Bake]

So, what did you actually replace? for that money a complete fuel assembly "in the tank" should have been replaced. That requires fuel line and elect connectors to be disconnected or spiced? For me, I replaced the entire assembly "fuel pump" part #4w1z9h307aa. problem solved

[Pat]

B.C. Bake;

Replaced just the fuel pump and filter (AKA Basket?).

This is a GT40 pump. Part $245.00, Labor $150.00, worthless tool $6.00, worthless siphon kit $9.00.

I gotta be helping the economy, right?

[B.C. Bake]

B.C. Bake;

Replaced just the fuel pump and filter (AKA Basket?).

This is a GT40 pump. Part $245.00, Labor $150.00, worthless tool $6.00, worthless siphon kit $9.00.

I gotta be helping the economy, right?

LOL, Oh well, keep the tool and siphon kit "you never know" BTW sounds like you didn't brake the bank on those tools "High Quality". :