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Thread: Big 3 Upgrade

  1. #1
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    Big 3 Upgrade

    How many of you audio guys have upgraded the MMs stock wiring under the hood?

    Big 3 consists of upgrading,

    1) Battery negative to chassis
    2) Alternator to battery positive
    3) Chassis to engine
    (ground point on alternator)

    Going to give this a go when I have a free day.

    Anyone know what gauge the stock wiring is, along with what out alternators output?
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    '04 Marauder #357 of 3213 - Built and Eaton swapped - "MERCD"
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChiTownMaraud3r View Post
    How many of you audio guys have upgraded the MMs stock wiring under the hood?

    Big 3 consists of upgrading,

    1) Battery negative to chassis
    2) Alternator to battery positive
    3) Chassis to engine
    (ground point on alternator)

    Going to give this a go when I have a free day.

    Anyone know what gauge the stock wiring is, along with what out alternators output?
    I remember back in the day reading about Taurus Sho's that did all these things and actually gained HP.

  3. #3
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    Ask pops.

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  4. #4
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    Would make sense (maybe even better mileage) I guess because it should improve the spark on the spark plugs, if you're not getting above 13.8V under load.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    '04 Marauder #357 of 3213 - Built and Eaton swapped - "MERCD"
    '21 F150 XLT 5.0 Sport
    '18 Chevy Malibu Redline
    '15 Mustang GT, performance package
    '01 BMW 740i M-Sport, manual swapped
    '97 Lincoln Town Car (black on black)
    '10 Harley Ultra Limited
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  5. #5
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    when I had my crysler labaron I up graded the wiring and it did up the horse. And the lights dimming when the bass hits was almost un noticed. When you can do it. Take pictures and do a wright up for other to do it.
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  6. #6
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    willing to bet

    That this makes no difference...if upping the horsepower were that easy everyone would have huge copper cables under the hood

  7. #7
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    Ha, it will only matter on cars w/ borderline undersized stock wiring. Has anyone dyno'd just this upgrade? If it helps this particular car, its worth doing
    Steve H., Charles County, MD www.carfap.com
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  8. #8
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    I know 2,4shofast put on some new battery cables, and he's audio smart....


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    I know 2,4shofast put on some new battery cables, and he's audio smart....
    He can hear good?


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  10. #10
    I believe this is an audio upgrade, not a performance upgrade. And yes I have done this on my MGM, also added a yellow top in the trunk which made a huge difference.
    96 GM HPP 206K mi.(chassis), Tuned by Manny at HPP, 76mm DBB PT, SQV BOV, Accufab TB/UP, Tial 44mm WG, 3" Intake and 3" Single Exhaust piping, PI Intake, PI Cams, MMR Stainless Valves, Manley Springs, P&P PI Heads, Forged Rods and Pistons, 90mm Lightening MAF and injectors (42lbs), 255 Walbro, BOC Trans, BOC Stage II TC 3,000 stall, 3.73, Trac-Loc, Cobra Carbon Clutches, AMMX driveshaft, SCT Xcal II J-Tune, Transmission cooler, PowerSlot Brakes, ENS front control arm bushings, Addco Front and Rear Swaybars, Poly Endlinks and Clamps, Front and Rear Bilstien Shocks, F/R PI springs, Rear ENS Control Arm Bushings, custom structural re-enforcement(stabilizer bar mounts and lower control arm mounts, among other spots), Custom Boxed Lower Rear Control Arms, Kenwood HU, Alpine Type R 5X7's, Kicker Comp 6X9's,Alpine 4X50, Crunch 1100 subwoofer Amp, Image Dynamics 12" subwoofer, Yellow Top


  11. #11
    Did this on my 94 mgm, was only running 1000 w-rms so i used 4ga to upgrade the system. Made a very noticable differnce.

  12. #12
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    Yeah, the only performance enhancement I would expect from this would be out of the audio, and lights not dimming when my bass hits.

    My install tech buddy said our cars should already have 4 gauge wiring under the hood anyways(somehow I don't believe it), and I'd have to upgrade to 0/1 gauge to make any difference if at all. He is not a believer of the big 3 upgrade, and says that the best way to upgrade the electrical system would be to get a higher output alternator, and a red top optima.

    But there are so many people on the web with "big 3 life changing" stories, that I would have to think it has to help at least some.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    '04 Marauder #357 of 3213 - Built and Eaton swapped - "MERCD"
    '21 F150 XLT 5.0 Sport
    '18 Chevy Malibu Redline
    '15 Mustang GT, performance package
    '01 BMW 740i M-Sport, manual swapped
    '97 Lincoln Town Car (black on black)
    '10 Harley Ultra Limited
    '08 Kawasaki ZX6R
    '03 Grand Marquis(sold)

  13. #13
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    I have done this on several vehicles and a few of mine as well, you will see a much better and stable current... I have recently upgraded my wiring on the Marauder but I really think these cars need a 200 or 250 amp alternator if you are running anything more than 1K watts regardless of wire gauge used. Just my .02 however.
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  14. #14
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    I have a 200 amp PA Performace alternator. There is a huge and significant difference there. Most of the high performance alternator shops will not even warranty your hipo alternator if you havent upgraded the Big Three with at least 1/0 gauge wiring. I did it and all is well. It just makes good sense.
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  15. #15
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by LOWBUCKMM View Post
    when I had my crysler labaron I up graded the wiring and it did up the horse. And the lights dimming when the bass hits was almost un noticed. When you can do it. Take pictures and do a wright up for other to do it.
    On the topic of lights dimming, I noticed about a year into driving my MM that if I do a wide open throttle run from low speed, letting off between 70 and 90, the lights in the dash seem to dim (more noticeable at night of course). After less than 5 seconds everything is back to normal, but it got me wondering..

    Is this normal? Should hitting the pedal heavy really draw my battery faster than my alternator can replenish it? Anyone else have this?
    03 300A Black 1719/7839
    Current mods: FRP 4.10s, DR 93 Octane & shift tune, 8-clutch stock diff rebuild, bald tires
    Wish list: Eaton M112 kit and/or get bored and stroke it to a 5.0L

    Don't let friends drive stockers:

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