Brake booster and master cylinder from under 40k mile Marauder

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I am looking for a good master cylinder and brake booster from a Marauder with under 40k miles. My 03 has terrible brakes and always has, and I have had enough and am ready to do some parts swapping.

[fastblackmerc]

Why not try SS lines?

[SILVERSURFER03]

Call me i have somthing here

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Fast, stock brakes should work correctly, I have driven another Marauder to know how they are supposed to feel. I don't want to bandaid this problem before fixing it.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I forgot to add, it has to be from a car WITHOUT traction control. The part #s are different in the Hollander interchange, just looked it up.

[SILVERSURFER03]

Ok both mine are 300a cars w/o trac

[2vmodular]

if you're wondering what's inside the 2001+ non-t/c master cylinder, take a look at this link:

http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakes...rcylinder/2004

[03mmmonroe]

I am looking for a good master cylinder and brake booster from a Marauder with under 40k miles. My 03 has terrible brakes and always has, and I have had enough and am ready to do some parts swapping.

I did that same parts swapping back in 2004 on my 2003a. The peddle feel and travel did not change. The only way I have fixed the concern was to upgrade the front calipers. I also have seen this concern on P71 and the concern is with the amount of travel from the front calipers and not the master or booster. Hope this helps.
PS in 2204 I did the stainless steel lines and did not feel a change.

Sorry to be a killer of great news.

Russ pm me if you want to talk about my findings.

[Zack]

Ive driven dozens of stock brake MM's.
Every single one had a different pedal feel and braking ability.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Ive driven dozens of stock brake MM's.
Every single one had a different pedal feel and braking ability.

That is not a good thing to find with production built cars. I know the build quality of these cars is not great but brakes should all be the same. Unless of course people are running different compound pads, that obviously will affect the pedal feel and pressure required, but I am running brand new quality non drilled or slotted rotors and stock oem pads.

I did that same parts swapping back in 2004 on my 2003a. The peddle feel and travel did not change. The only way I have fixed the concern was to upgrade the front calipers.

Why is it that the 2004 I drove had a very high, short pedal travel before the brakes fully grabbed? I don't think the calipers are different from my 300a?

[LeoVampire]

There is an ajustment screw at the end of the Boosters plunger. Turn it out a little bit and then reinstall the master.

Byt hand put the master firmly in place and feel if there is pressure against it or not. If there is no pressure and to seat it is not a battle then you are fine to put the nuts back on.

Cuts down on travel distance for the brake peddle and gets the master to use a longer stroke in applying the brake fluid pressure to the wheels.

That and the braided brake hose's will give you plenty of brakeing ability with the stock set up.

All I have to do is tap the peddel with my foot and I get a reaction.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Thanke leo, when I change the master I will adjust that rod.

I am pretty sure there is something wrong with my master because if I bleed the brakes, I get a high, hard pedal but it only lasts a few days. That's not kosher.

[tbone]

My brakes have been sorta weak too. When I had the fluid changed, it made it a lot better. Could still use more improvement though.

[LeoVampire]

Thanke leo, when I change the master I will adjust that rod.

I am pretty sure there is something wrong with my master because if I bleed the brakes, I get a high, hard pedal but it only lasts a few days. That's not kosher.

When bleeding the brakes after the master gets some miles on it and a few years down the road those rubber seals inside of it does make a wear pattern in the soft aluminum over time and the rubbers lose thier ability to hold shape over time when forced to go into a non groved area of the master during a manual bleeding process with someone on the brake peddel.

It is better to use a pressure bleeder and force the fluid through the lines without useing the brake peddel. I have seen many masters fail after someone does a manual bleed pushing the master plungers further than they are use to going on a car and needing to replace it after words just for that reason.

bleed part 1.jpg

bleed part 2.jpg

bleed part 3.jpg

[2vmodular]

there is also a brake booster with different valving inside avaliable for these cars. the one you guys want for your 2003-2004 marauders was used in the 2001-2002 crown victoria police interceptor.