Car stalled for the first time

[Zack]

Def not the battery if it started back up.

IAC as stated above.

[dakslim]

I don't have this problem but when I typed IAC valve in search it just pulled up this thread.

[88LTDCV351]

So a few days ago, I pulled into my driveway and the battery light comes on and the car dies. Started right up and seems fine. Well, since then I pull in the parking space at work or pull into my driveway when I get home and the volts drop and the battery light might come on for a second. Doesn't always stall but then runs fine. What should I check first?

[88LTDCV351]

Tired of buying batteries when they are fine. Replaced the battery a bunch of times before when it ended up being something else so I'd rather not start with thinking its the battery. The battery in the car is not very old.

[decipha]

it hadn't been mentioned (9 years ago when the thread was made) but make sure you don't have a vac leak. The crossover hose in the front of the engine is known to crack and will cause this same issue.

[SilverPhoenix]

I had a similar issue 5-6 years ago, fixed it, but now it has started up again. It typically occurs when steering is involved. The original fix was to bump up my idle RPMs; with the car in drive while holding the brakes, if I turned the wheel my RPMs would dip, sometimes low enough for the car to actually stall out if I did a quick 'yank' on the wheel. This would NOT happen if I had the A/C on because running the A/C would bump up the RPMs at idle. At that time, I was idling at around 600 and had it re-programmed/tuned to where it would idle at 750/800 instead. Fixed that problem, but now I'm wondering if I need to have it done again since it has re-surfaced. What RPM does your MM idle at when in park and when in drive w/brakes on?

In between then and now (last June), I also had a vacuum leak on one of the tubes coming from the intake manifold. One day, I noticed the car had a little 'hiccup' when I started it, which progressed to it cut out on me while I was driving to then not cranking at all within a week. I was able to use electrical tape to hold the vacuum line/tube together for a couple days until I had it replaced. (See picture) I think the new part was $50ish. Instead of having it replaced at the stealership, I brought it to the shop I've been bringing my car to for the last 7 years and the replaced it for free since it only took 10 minutes.

In this case however, the battery light never came on, so I'm inclined to think you're idling a bit low for one reason or another. Might need to have a good clean out of the IAC valve/throttle body or have the RPMs adjusted up a smidge.

[decipha]

if you have the means to reprogram the ecu the problem can be easily resolved by not turning up the idle rpm but by allowing a faster and greater correction when the rpms drop below idle.

I have mine idling at 544 rpm in gear and 640 rpm in neutral same as stock. No need in turning it up higher.

I had a similar issue once where if i was doing donuts with the wheel cut hard it would stall after coming off the throttle. I kicked up dashpot again and never had an issue with it. But our cars do have power steering pressure sensors so you can turn up the idle air when you turn the wheel if it loads the engine enough to do so.

[Invective]

Replace with OEM Ford IAC. Don't use aftermarket IAC as the motor will over rev upon startup (2500 rpm). Some say 'just clean it', but after 14-15 years...

[MyBlackBeasts]

Replace with OEM Ford IAC. Don't use aftermarket IAC as the motor will over rev upon startup (2500 rpm). Some say 'just clean it', but after 14-15 years...

^^^^^^^^^^This!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[88LTDCV351]

Thanks. I ordered a new OEM IAC. I did clean the current original one many years ago when it was idleing a little high. But might be time for a new minty fresh and clean one.