just wondering if switching to 5w30 woud hurt anything? I want to switch to a little heavier oil to see if that helps that idle knock... thinking maybe 520 is a little thin once the car warms up... in my case.
just wondering if switching to 5w30 woud hurt anything? I want to switch to a little heavier oil to see if that helps that idle knock... thinking maybe 520 is a little thin once the car warms up... in my case.
5w30 shouldn't hurt but i highly doubt it is gonna help quiet anything either
Steve H., Charles County, MD www.carfap.com
1994 Lincoln Town Car. 98-02 front brakes, P71 steering and sway bars, Eaton swap build underway using TorkTech 4.6 2v intake kit.
2011 Infiniti M37x
2004 F250, v10 6 speed manual. ex-US Forest Service truck
2000 BMW M5
1976 Jeep DJ5 (postal)
well I figure since it only does it when hot, maybe a thicker oil MIGHT do something, but if not i'll switch back.
Use the factory weight and use a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer in the white jug, works great on my little tracer with 192K miles. Quite as a church mouse.
FRPP dealer owner of SpartaPerformance.com
We are an authorized independent AMSOIL dealer.
Using 5W-30 won't hurt a thing, but if you have a "knock" at idle, you have more major problems.
The Blackbird
Trilogy #61
Driveway Queen
The Spruce Goose
2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
Daily Driver
5w20, 5w30, 10w30, no problems.
Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
$1800 and it was worse than when he started!
Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker
03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
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01 F150 shortbed
00 F150 4x4 stepside
01 F150 4x4 7700
68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)
Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods
I just recently bumped mine up at my last oil change actually! I went from 5w-20 to 5w-30. Just more peace of mind in the hot summer months!
Marauderless....
thanks ima gana try 5w30 next oil change... serious problem knock nah, other members on here have the same knock im talking about, even someone with a blower has had it for 70,000 miles i think he said, nevr got worse. been to several Mechanics, not a berring knock, not a pisten knock... they dont know. as soon as you rev it to 800 rpms or more it's gone. also on a cold start up, nothing. so I was thinking maybe it has something to do with the oil once it thins out a bit?
4play, do you have the stock non-functioning oil pressure gauge, or has it been replaced with a real working one? (You know the stock one is a fake, right?)
The Blackbird
Trilogy #61
Driveway Queen
The Spruce Goose
2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
Daily Driver
I knew that within 5 min after purchasing the car. I keep meaning to get the pressure checked, but never had time. I cant see whatelse would cause the tap once it warms up. Whatelse changes becides the oil weight?... its worth a shot.
Does anyone know of any reasons why running any of the following oil weights would be a bad idea?
0w30 - this is the Castrol type-5 synthetic made in Germany;
5w50 - same cold start flow as a 5w20, but thicker than 5w20 or 5w30 once warmed up;
5w40 - I've seen this weight too, at my local FLAPS, a bit lighter than 5w50;
Sounds like the dreaded cylinder #4/#8 dead spot. Start saving some cash for a new motor some have just lived with it others were'nt so lucky
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