Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 67

Thread: J-Mod updates!

  1. #1
    Marauderer Guest

    J-Mod updates!

    I met with Jerry W. this Saturday in Detroit and asked him about his J-Mod for our cars. He sent me this picture and these updated instructions for late model cars. Finally, the answer from the man himself!!

    >Ignore what the aritcle says and do this...
    >
    > Remove the bottom 1-2 accumulator spring and remove the bottom 2-3
    > accumulator spring.
    >
    > For holes do this.
    >
    > Hole #2 is the intermediate clutch feed (1-2 shift). Make this hole in the
    > .100"-.110" range. It should be .081" in your plate right now.
    > Hole #10 is the reverse clutch feed. Totally optional. If you want it to
    > engage into reverse faster when you move the lever, open this up to .093".
    > Holes #4 & 5 are the direct clutch feed (2-3 shift). Open both of these
    > holes up to .100"-.110".
    > Holes #9 and 11 are the forward clucth feed (4-3/4-2 shift). Make both of
    > these .100-.110" as well.
    >
    > So, it looks like you need a drill of around .100" and you should be good.
    > When you open up holes 4&5 make sure the hole in the gasket between the
    > seperator plate and valve body casting, is large enough. These holes are a
    > little small.
    >
    > jerry
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    St. John, IN
    Age
    45
    Posts
    14,251
    Congratulations on your dyno tune!!!!
    I heard you made 433 horsepower and 399? Torque!!
    Care to fill us in on this?
    Jerry is awesome isnt he?

  3. #3
    MI2QWK4U Guest
    Ok, not to sound stupid, but here goes.... what will this do? What else have you done to the trans?

  4. #4
    schuvwj Guest

    Question Re: J-Mod updates!

    What do you do with the removed 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by schuvwj; 11-30-2003 at 07:07 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Age
    56
    Posts
    403
    What the heck am I looking at?
    2003-300A
    Trilogy #8 with Custom Pulley Produces 12.4psi of Boost
    407 RWHP and 384 RWT
    Best 1/4 Mile 12.028 @ 117.01mph
    From Lidio: Trilogy #8 install & Custom Tune, Custom Pulley, Chip, Accufab Throttle Body, Baer Claw Front Calipers with Crossdrilled & Slotted Rotors All Around, Custom 2¼ X-Pipe, 3 Chamber Flomaster Mufflers, Widened Rear Rims with 305 Nitto NT-555R Extreme Drag Radials, Auburn High Performance Posi.
    From Reinhart: 4.10 Rear Gear, 180 Degree Thermostat, Motorcraft Plugs, Metal Matrix Driveshaft, Rear Sway Bar.
    From Metco: Carbon Fiber Intake Tube, Control Arms & Watts Link.
    From Others: Kenny Brown Braided Brake Lines & Dead Pedal

  6. #6
    Marauderer Guest

    :)

    Use them as paper weights!

    Whew, MI, the complete answer to that question is probably better answered by someone that knows more about it then I do. However, with the power we are producing with the S/C kits, Jerry said we have to do it to completely get the squishy feeling out of the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. He was especially concerned with what I might be doing to my tranny with my new found HP and the temps it is going to create. He suggested that I not do too many hard 1-2's until it is done. Essentially, we need more flow and this is the way to go to get it. His more complete explanation is on the http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...on/index.shtml site.

    The picture is of the seperator plate in your transmission pan.

    Zack, I'm doing a write up on my experience this Saturday now, but I am a little brain dead as I just got back and have been up since 2:30 this am (and the day before up since 3:00 AM to go see Jerry). It might take me a day or two to get it all down , but it is on the way!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Long Island,NY
    Posts
    176
    thanks marauderer,this is the perfect mod for a guy like me!an afternoon tinkering with the valvebody and she should shift better.i have read jerrys article before,but now he has simplfyed this.these cars with the superchargers can use abit more line pressure(i hate weak shifts).nice power you made btw,,congrats.too bad its getting cold out,,but we all are going to have a great 2004 im sure.thanks for posting that info.jeff
    Pearl Blue 300B,Born 11/25/02
    4.10 Gears,Stallion Converter
    Jerry W. Tranny Mod
    SCT Pro Racer Package,Tuned by myself
    180* Stat/Denso IT20's
    Steeda Underdrive Pulleys/SFI Dampner
    Dual Cobra Fuel Pumps
    Amsoil Series 2000 0w30
    Factory Spoiler,Silver/Grey Pinstriping
    35%Tint Front,Back,Rear
    Bob White Reflective FordBlue Inserts
    Pioneer TSA-6870's All Around
    "Real" Oil Pressure&Boost Gauges
    P.I. Driveshaft
    Modifyed TailLights
    Custom NY plates-MARAWDR
    Worlds First Kenne Bell Supercharged Marauder
    456rwhp,435rwtq @ 10lbs
    And of course...ZAINO!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    St. John, IN
    Age
    45
    Posts
    14,251
    The trans still has to come out of the car for the Spiraloc Clip to be installed. If you dont do this, youre wasting your time.
    My trans was 'broke but still working' long before I put the supercharger on.

  9. #9
    bigslim Guest
    Dave, I sent you a PM. Check it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Off-Shore America
    Posts
    10,219
    Way to go, Bill, congrats!

  11. #11
    Marauderer Guest

    Spiraloc

    Zack, I don't know if I would go as far as to say that it is a complete waste of time. It is far better to minimize your exposure in any situation versus dropping your pants completely to the ground and bending over In fact, I asked Jerry about that very same thing and his greater concern was doing his mod as it was by far the more immediate threat. I don't think anyone here with high HP wants to boil away their transmission, breakage is another matter all together.

  12. #12
    The valve body modification stops the slugish shifts which is like adding a shift kit. The sluggish shift cause more wear from the slippage and that friction from the slippage causes heat in the transmission. If anyone has any more questions about it, I have worked with Jerry extensively with this and am able to perform this if someone doesn't want to do it themselves. I also can do the spiral lock and other trans upgrades if interested. Call me at 734-261-1664 or my cell is 313-304-6477 ask for Brad. I'll be glad to explain everything or help anyone with their transmissions.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    TX
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,685
    bbockstanz,
    Are the above hole callout sizes also correct for sub 300rwhp?

    In the origanal TCC0A article the size of the holes changed when the HP went up.

    Everybody,
    The cool thing about the j-mod is the internal trans pressures are not raised.All the above mods cause the hydralic accumulators to fill and empty much faster,this makes the shifts quicker.
    In the TCCoA article Jerry cautions against raising the operating pressure in the trans.

  14. #14
    Boy...am I confused...

    Can someone just tell me how, where and how much it would cost to just get this done? I don't care about understanding it...just want to pay to have it done and BE done with it...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Knoxville TN
    Age
    67
    Posts
    10,717
    Where does the spiral lock clip go? Does the valve body have to be removed to access it or does it go on with the tail housing removed or front pump removed? I ask because the J-mod is something I could do now (basically for free), and increasing the volume with a deeper pan could be done at the same time. The clip, PI Stallion converter, and rear bushing forced lube tubing mods could be done together at a later time (when I get around to purchasing the converter) but if the valve body and fluid will have to be drained I would rather wait and do it all at once.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •