Just finished installing the Heinous rear control arms. Very nice in the twisties, and a great upgrade for 45 minutes of work. Suprised by how good looking they are. Next up, the bigger rear sway bar.
Just finished installing the Heinous rear control arms. Very nice in the twisties, and a great upgrade for 45 minutes of work. Suprised by how good looking they are. Next up, the bigger rear sway bar.
1 of 170 '04 SB w/sunroof, light flint int.
MOD HISTORY:
-Lidio's Xcal2 flash, JLT CAI
-Trilogized June/08 (mostly installed by RC_Signals)
13.2@103 on stock (balding) tires.
-Added: SW Long tube Headers + High Flow Cats
-New BFGs (Best Baby Shower gift EVER!)
12.81@107.78 Oct 02/09
-Ventilated Block Mod
Out of commission
-Rebuilt with:
Teksid block/ForgedInternals/Melling oil pump/Canton windage tray/Rebuilt heads with SVT Cobra cams/Cloyes gears/ SVT Lightning MAF/Accufab TB/ MuscleMerc rear head cooling kit/ Steigy lightly ported and polished Eaton 112-
-Widened rims
XCal 4 Remote-tuned to PERFECTION by Jeff @ MartyO June/19
ride quality over bumps etc. is uchanged. You don't even know they're there until you do a launch or throw it into the corners.
PM Sent!!!!!
No problems!
Understeering into a corner means you don't turn into the corner as much as you want. You can correct this by simply getting off the gas. In this case, you may slide a bit onto the corner's outside shoulder, or worst case, plow deep into the outside shoulder maybe even getting into the ditch.
Oversteer means you hang the tail out, which can be corrected by slight throttle increase. Worst case though, and the back end comes around and you 180 the car and have lost nearly all control including direction, what lane you're in, and more.
On a closed race course, understeering means if you get off into the grass, just back off the throttle and ease back onto the course.
Oversteering means you spin the car and end up stopped facing the wrong way on the track.
Imagine this same scenario on regular roads. Understeering means "get off the gas, look where you want to go, and steer there." That will scrub off enough speed to do the job in most cases. Your correction is fairly easy. Oversteering usually leads people to swing the rear out, and then overcorrect and spin the other way, still ending up to 180 degrees from where you were headed.
Drifting is a great spectator sport, and I used to ice race myself in a winter series. However, I set up my vehicles for understeer. A tail happy Fox Mustang may be fun to drive in the rain/snow, but only for fun.
Forced oversteer is not a problem with a Trilogy, so I can hang the tail out at will. But imagine yourself coming off a freeway on a tight, off-camber, wet off-ramp. Do you want the car to slowly edge to the outside guard rail, or have the tail swing around on you?
One more scenario: You're on a long sweeping corner, and some idiot jams on his brakes in the middle of it. You have to hit the brakes NOW! Do you want the tail coming around to leave you sideways across the road (or worse), or do you want to "plow" towards the shoulder? I'll take the shoulder anyday in an emergency sitiuation. You still have options, whereas you relinquish all control once the tail starts swinging like a pendulum.
Hope this clears up my position.
1 of 170 '04 SB w/sunroof, light flint int.
MOD HISTORY:
-Lidio's Xcal2 flash, JLT CAI
-Trilogized June/08 (mostly installed by RC_Signals)
13.2@103 on stock (balding) tires.
-Added: SW Long tube Headers + High Flow Cats
-New BFGs (Best Baby Shower gift EVER!)
12.81@107.78 Oct 02/09
-Ventilated Block Mod
Out of commission
-Rebuilt with:
Teksid block/ForgedInternals/Melling oil pump/Canton windage tray/Rebuilt heads with SVT Cobra cams/Cloyes gears/ SVT Lightning MAF/Accufab TB/ MuscleMerc rear head cooling kit/ Steigy lightly ported and polished Eaton 112-
-Widened rims
XCal 4 Remote-tuned to PERFECTION by Jeff @ MartyO June/19
I have the Heinous billet arms too. The car wants to leap forward off the gas. It's almost like you have an increase in spring rate in the rear, without the harshness. Much better handling.
2021 F150 XLT Super Crew short bed - no chrome! - 3.5 Ecoboost 400hp/500tq - 36 Gal tank (600 miles) - 4x4 FX4 Offroad + Max Tow - 3.55 Locker - 10 Speed - Pro Power 2kva - 24mpg @ 80 Ford is still the best.
03 300A - Number 1727 - Super Touring - 10k in the best upgrades - 13.8@99 N/A - SOLD - STAP was so much fun, loved meeting you all and racing.
I found with all the suspension upgrades the MM handles pretty neutral
1 of 170 '04 SB w/sunroof, light flint int.
MOD HISTORY:
-Lidio's Xcal2 flash, JLT CAI
-Trilogized June/08 (mostly installed by RC_Signals)
13.2@103 on stock (balding) tires.
-Added: SW Long tube Headers + High Flow Cats
-New BFGs (Best Baby Shower gift EVER!)
12.81@107.78 Oct 02/09
-Ventilated Block Mod
Out of commission
-Rebuilt with:
Teksid block/ForgedInternals/Melling oil pump/Canton windage tray/Rebuilt heads with SVT Cobra cams/Cloyes gears/ SVT Lightning MAF/Accufab TB/ MuscleMerc rear head cooling kit/ Steigy lightly ported and polished Eaton 112-
-Widened rims
XCal 4 Remote-tuned to PERFECTION by Jeff @ MartyO June/19
Ill use my set-up as a idea, Sparta control arms and watts link, addco sway bars front and rear. The springs and shocks are all stock.
On a launch the car tracks straight and just launches, less wheel spin and more forward motion. On the turns the car is planted, the body and the suspension track straight. With the rubber bushings the rear would feel a little sloppy after drifting a turn or on a hard launch. Sloppy meaning the body would shift its weight to one side on the rubber and the wheels would stay planted causing the tires to squeal a bit and just feel on the edge of spinning out. (I took a turn a little too quick and learned this the hard way with my stock setup) I was also able to test this by pushing on the side of the rear of my car with stock control arms. The rear would wiggle easily just by pushing it, after the new poly/delrin bushings the wiggle was minimal.
The new arms tightened the entire rear up and the sway bars with new watts link took almost all the body roll out of the car.
The ride remained the same. Just feels more in touch with the road and allows you to feel much more stable and confident taking turns at a higher rate of speed.
Changing the springs would really affect the ride more then any other suspension upgrade.
For the money and performance, go with trhe Sparta set-up. They are cheaper and use high quality steel with a steel sleeved delrin/poly bushing. Plus they are available in different colors.
2003 MERCURY MARAUDER 300A
Build Date
5/31/02
Sequence#
#363 of 7839 Black Marauders
Dyno tested power
450 RWHP & 405 RWTQ on 93 octane
Best 1/4 mile time to date
12.456@109mph
Visit my Garage
Blackened300a's Garage
Thanks for the info, guys. I've plateaued on engine mods without going forged, so suspension and brakes are on deck. I just don't want to lose ride quality, as the MM is now my wife's (and carrying our little girl) daily driver.
1 of 170 '04 SB w/sunroof, light flint int.
MOD HISTORY:
-Lidio's Xcal2 flash, JLT CAI
-Trilogized June/08 (mostly installed by RC_Signals)
13.2@103 on stock (balding) tires.
-Added: SW Long tube Headers + High Flow Cats
-New BFGs (Best Baby Shower gift EVER!)
12.81@107.78 Oct 02/09
-Ventilated Block Mod
Out of commission
-Rebuilt with:
Teksid block/ForgedInternals/Melling oil pump/Canton windage tray/Rebuilt heads with SVT Cobra cams/Cloyes gears/ SVT Lightning MAF/Accufab TB/ MuscleMerc rear head cooling kit/ Steigy lightly ported and polished Eaton 112-
-Widened rims
XCal 4 Remote-tuned to PERFECTION by Jeff @ MartyO June/19
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