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Thread: Spark Plug Change Instructional

  1. #16
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    And as a personal preference I do not use any thread sealer if the plug itself is coated. especially in modulars before 2000, but after that as well. I discourage my customers from using it in any modular ford.
    03 Black sequence number #2228 of 7838. First day of Gold Coolant.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Should add to REMOVAL a step after #3..... clean out any debris found in the spark plug wells.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackened300a View Post
    Spark Plug Change Procedure
    Ford 4.6 DOHC
    PRELIMINARY
    1. Obtain necessary tools:
    Spark plug socket – 5/8 X 3/8 drive with rubber grip insert
    10 inch extension X 3/8 drive
    3/8 inch drive ratchet wrench
    Torque wrench 25-250 inch pound range
    Spark plug gap tool, blade style with gap adjustment feature
    10 MM socket 3/8 inch drive
    Tube, anti seize compound (not grease)

    2. Engine must be cold. It’s an aluminum block so be careful not to strip out the threads in the plug wells. There may be some small amount of oil residue on the top portion of the plug and inside the well, this is normal.
    Do one plug change at a time, There are no big spark plugs wires just a coil on plug assembly (COP) on each plug with a two wire electrical connector, a small transformer and a spring assembly (this is one unit that connects directly to the top of the spark plug)
    3. Obtain your replacement spark plugs from Ford parts dealer or any FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store). I recommend Motorcraft plugs, SP505.
    4. Check the gap on the plugs and regap if needed. Many times, plugs are gapped correctly at the factory. Stock gap is around .052-.056 range.
    The gap is the space between the center electrode and the ground strap of the plug. The correct method is to insert the appropriate blade between the two elements and adjust the distance between the elements by bending the ground strap at its base to decrease or increase the gap.
    The gap will be correct if the blade barely drags on the elements as you slide it between them.
    5. Set your torque wrench to 132-156 inch pounds, (that’s 11-13 foot lbs).
    6. put a very small amount of anti seize compound completely around the threads, do not put compound on the tip of the plug.

    REMOVAL
    1. Remove the COP covers on each bank of cylinders. This is the flat metal cover on top of the larger valve covers. Two 10MM bolts hold this on. There is an opening on the rear for the plug control wires, so don’t reverse the COP covers. They also have a small gasket embedded in a groove.
    2. This will now expose the COPs. You will only see the top portion at this time. Remove the electrical connector by depressing the tang on the plastic body. Do not break this connector tang.
    3. Remove the COP by pulling straight up, this may take a little effort since the spring is a friction fit over the top of the plug. Use two hands, one to hold the COP body and the other to pull up on the spring assembly. Try not to stretch the spring assembly.
    4. Fit your 3/8 ratchet, 10 inch extension and 5/8 inch socket together. Place this string into the well and over the spark plug. Feel that the socket has engaged the plug and loosen the plug (this may take a few sharp blows with your palm to “break loose” the plug.
    Maintain a firm downward pressure on the tool string to keep from stripping the socket or plug and remove the plug. There may be some points where the plug is harder to turn but keep the pressure on and continue turning until the plug is removed.
    5. Inspect the plug to see if the tip is a tan color and there is no mechanical damage such as metal beads or burnt off electrode. All the plugs should be very similar in color and condition.
    The plugs on #7 and #8 cylinders (closest to the firewall on the driver’s side) may be harder to break free because they get the hottest.

    INSTALLATION
    1. Install the prepared spark plug by fitting the plug into the socket, placing the tool string into the well and starting the plug use the ratchet, not the torque wrench, begin tightening the plug until the plug is snug.
    2. Replace the ratchet with the torque wrench and commence tightening until the wrench clicks. Do not over or under torque.
    3. Replace the COP by positioning the spring assembly over the spark plug on push down until you feel that the spring is firmly gripping the spark plug.
    4. Reconnect the electrical connector making sure the tang clicks on the COP side of the connection.
    5. Repeat until all the plugs are changed.
    6. Reinstall the COP covers (both banks).
    7. Start engine and listen for smooth idle, test drive car after warm up and listen/feel by seat of pants for misfires. Go to wide open throttle (passing gear) on an open highway and listen/ feel for misfires. Don’t need to get to a high speed, less than 75 MPH will do.
    You are done.
    Regards,

    Pat
    Old post but glad I found it. Google was my friend!

    Is this the final version even though it states preliminary? I plan to take a shot at this very soon along with changing out the COPs themselves. Still need to order everything. Got a slight studder at idle and when accelerating at slower speeds. Feels like a misfire. Figure I change the COPs and plugs since it would cost me just as much for a shop to have it checked out.

    Hell, I replaced the EATC o-rings and swapped out my BCM, this doesn't seem much harder.
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  3. #18
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    this has been "stuck"

  4. #19
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    Question

    Pat,

    In regards to your Motorcraft SP505, did Ford change the number?

    I checked my records and back in late 2007 I used Motorcraft SP433.

    - Rob

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MERCMAN View Post
    this has been "stuck"
    OK, from the guy that didn't know what "Bump" meant, where do I find where it's been "stuck"?

    Thanks!
    2004 DTR
    Born 9/25/2003 Adopted Aug 11, 2010
    #175 of 980 DTR, #537 of 3,214 2004

    Lidio Tune, K&N CAI, 4.10s, FlowMaster40s, SS Braided brake lines, SS Bumper Inserts, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler, Lip Spoiler, Grill & Trunk Badges by Daniel, Audiophile 6L8T18C815FD.



  6. #21
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    Useful information gets a "sticky" so that it's easy to find.
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavySeabee View Post
    OK, from the guy that didn't know what "Bump" meant, where do I find where it's been "stuck"?

    Thanks!
    LOL Pete! It's "stuck" in the Shop Talk Forum.
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkk View Post
    Pat,

    In regards to your Motorcraft SP505, did Ford change the number?

    I checked my records and back in late 2007 I used Motorcraft SP433.

    - Rob
    SP505 is for use with forced induction (as Pat has) or if you have a performance tune and your tuner recommends cooler plugs. Otherwise, use the stock heat-range SP-433.

    Using a cooler plug than necessary won't give you any more power, and may even reduce it as the plug will have a greater tendency to foul.
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ms. Denmark View Post
    LOL Pete! It's "stuck" in the Shop Talk Forum.
    THATS the answer I was looking for! Keep laughing!

    Thanks Paula
    2004 DTR
    Born 9/25/2003 Adopted Aug 11, 2010
    #175 of 980 DTR, #537 of 3,214 2004

    Lidio Tune, K&N CAI, 4.10s, FlowMaster40s, SS Braided brake lines, SS Bumper Inserts, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler, Lip Spoiler, Grill & Trunk Badges by Daniel, Audiophile 6L8T18C815FD.



  10. #25
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    compressed air!

    Always blow out the plug well with compressed air before plug removal.

    I use a rubber hose over the ceramic to get the plug started back into the hole, and tighten it down. The hose will slip on the ceramic if the plug isn't starting properly.

    Always use di-electric grease on the rubber boot. A small blob goes a long way, and makes everything go smooth.

    If you break off a coil connector tab, you can use a tooth pick to friction-fit the connector to the coil. Replacement connectors are way over-priced. When in a self-service salvage yard, look for connectors for spares.

    ================
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  11. #26
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    To all, and especially the OP, thank you, thank you, thank you! I've only had mine for a year, and have the parts to do the replacement, and this tutorial is extremely helpful. This will be the evening project one night this week.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreekGod View Post
    Always blow out the plug well with compressed air before plug removal.

    I use a rubber hose over the ceramic to get the plug started back into the hole, and tighten it down. The hose will slip on the ceramic if the plug isn't starting properly.

    Always use di-electric grease on the rubber boot. A small blob goes a long way, and makes everything go smooth.

    If you break off a coil connector tab, you can use a tooth pick to friction-fit the connector to the coil. Replacement connectors are way over-priced. When in a self-service salvage yard, look for connectors for spares.

    ================
    Second that on the rubber hose! 3/8" ID rubber hose works great! Had a DOHC Honda I had to use that method on in the past.

  13. #28
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    I use one of these, just start it by hand.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-3-8-...158034&vxp=mtr
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  14. #29
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    Nice! But rubber hose costs less than a buck.......

  15. #30
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    Very informative and helpful write up. Absolutely no problems after following all the instructions/advice posted in here.

    Also, as a heads up to anyone wondering about dielectric grease on the boots, the COPs that I ordered from Ford (M-12029-4V) had dielectric grease pre-applied on the inside of the boot where it meets the plug. I put in a little more using my own tube of grease, but it looks like they were primed from the factory for installation in case you don't have grease on hand.
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