BAP Installation with Pics
I did this months ago but haven't had a chance to post the pics. Dennis Reinhart has posted some great pics as well but I couldn't find any of the full procedure, so I took some pics along the way.
August 2013 Update: BAP installation diagrams are posted in this thread, further along at http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...4&postcount=51
IMPORTANT UPDATE: The below post installs the BAP from the FACTORY POWER WIRING in the Marauder. This will work fine for lower-horsepower applications, let's say under 450HP. But in my car with a GT40 pump, the stock wiring was not sufficient to power the BAP and I experienced random detonation. I needed to make a dedicated run of power cable from the battery in the front to the BAP in the trunk and after doing that, I haven't heard a single PING since. If you install the BAP with stock wiring I urge you to test it very carefully to confirm that you have consistent fuel rail pressure across many different temperature and load conditions.
If you want more details on the dedicated BAP power wire, they are posted in Page 4 of the thread:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...t=74289&page=4
If you datalog your car and find the fuel pump duty cycle is approaching Max (high 0.40's), or your fuel rail pressure is consistently dropping below 35PSI, the BAP is your solution. It brought the duty cycle on mine below 0.40 consistently.
The BAP install is very easy and straightforward, at a minimum you're splicing into one wire and installing a ground. This BAP is the 40A model.
Important note, the BAP is wired BETWEEN the fuel shutoff switch and the FPDM. NOT between the FPDM and Fuel Pump.
The flow of current is like this:
Shutoff switch --white wire--> BAP --white wire--> FPDM --> Fuel Pump
The input wire on the BAP is the one with the fuse. The BAP will work off the stock wiring, however the BAP greatly amplifies spikes and droops in the current. For best results you should run an 8 or 10-guage wire from the battery for more consistent power. Use a relay if you want to maintain the fuel pump shutoff switch functionality.
The fuel shutoff switch is at the top, near the lid of the trunk. The FPDM is the black box with the white sticker on it, at the bottom of the wall.
Closer up:
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Notice that the side of the trunk is a good 4" away from side of the car. This is great, because you can mount things to it without being anywhere near your exterior chassis or the fender. These trunks are terrific for stereo installs because of this.
The first step in the wiring is to unplug the FPDM and remove the tape from the wiring, you're looking for the white wire. Not that white wires are any better than black wires, or red wires, or blue wires or green wires, don't get me wrong. But the BAP needs to get spliced in with whitey for your car to go faster.
So I cut the white wire here, stripped the ends and crimped connectors on both. Note that it's always best to add in a bit of solder if possible to ensure a perfect connection. Now we're ready to splice in the red BAP wires.
Very important, the one with the fuse connects to the UPPER wire (from the fuel shutoff switch) and the one without the fuse connects to the LOWER wire (going to the FPDM plug).
You can also see I've mounted the BAP in this picture. It fits perfectly between the fuel pump switch and FPDM, almost like the car was built for it. I love when things come together perfectly. You can also see BAP's ground wire snaking under the FPDM and bolted to the frame.
Here's a closeup of the ground:
Rusty bolts increase current capacity by five times. True story.
The BAP also comes with a long wire to connect to a boost switch for remote control activation. It sounds like a cool feature but is totally unnecessary. Short the wire out and skip making the lengthy run to the front of your car. Trust me, you'll see why when you read further about the knob.
You can actually cut off the majority of the wire too. I kept mine spooled up for future, just in case.
So here's the BAP mounted, grounded, and wired in between the Fuel Shutoff Switch and the FPDM. Notice the fuse is quite accessable still!
All that's left is the BAP control knob that you saw in the first picture. It's connected to the BAP by a gold-plated RCA (~component) cable. Here is it added into the mix and one final look at the install before we cover everything back up.
So, about the knob. It's INTENDED installation point is where the driver can reach it, and supposedly move it during motor vehicle operation. This may work well in cars not driven by an ECU, but the Marauder ECU needs to learn the voltages it needs to send to the FPDM and Fuel Pump to achieve certain fuel flow rates. Long story short, this knob is best set once and left alone. If you were to change the setting later, your car would be lean or rich and would have to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table to get the fuel flow correct again. I put mine at max and haven't touched it since.
Here's the carpet all put back in place, covering up the install almost perfectly.
You can peek-a-BAP right next to the air suspension shutoff switch. The BAP never gets hot to the touch, and the control knob is reachable by pulling back the carpet at the very top (though I never change the setting).
One last point to note - the car will have to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table every time you reflash it. For best results, you need to drive it for awhile to let it learn what works best, then log the voltages it is using and change the table in your tune directly. Then when you reprogram your car, it will run like a champ right away, instead of starting off with fuel issues while it adapts the table to the BAP. I will post a guide to LiveLink and will cover this procedure in another thread at a later date.
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Originally Posted by Zack
