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  1. #1
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    Lightbulb BAP Installation with Pics

    I did this months ago but haven't had a chance to post the pics. Dennis Reinhart has posted some great pics as well but I couldn't find any of the full procedure, so I took some pics along the way.

    August 2013 Update: BAP installation diagrams are posted in this thread, further along at http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...4&postcount=51

    IMPORTANT UPDATE: The below post installs the BAP from the FACTORY POWER WIRING in the Marauder. This will work fine for lower-horsepower applications, let's say under 450HP. But in my car with a GT40 pump, the stock wiring was not sufficient to power the BAP and I experienced random detonation. I needed to make a dedicated run of power cable from the battery in the front to the BAP in the trunk and after doing that, I haven't heard a single PING since. If you install the BAP with stock wiring I urge you to test it very carefully to confirm that you have consistent fuel rail pressure across many different temperature and load conditions.
    If you want more details on the dedicated BAP power wire, they are posted in Page 4 of the thread:
    http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...t=74289&page=4


    If you datalog your car and find the fuel pump duty cycle is approaching Max (high 0.40's), or your fuel rail pressure is consistently dropping below 35PSI, the BAP is your solution. It brought the duty cycle on mine below 0.40 consistently.

    The BAP install is very easy and straightforward, at a minimum you're splicing into one wire and installing a ground. This BAP is the 40A model.



    Important note, the BAP is wired BETWEEN the fuel shutoff switch and the FPDM. NOT between the FPDM and Fuel Pump.

    The flow of current is like this:

    Shutoff switch --white wire--> BAP --white wire--> FPDM --> Fuel Pump

    The input wire on the BAP is the one with the fuse. The BAP will work off the stock wiring, however the BAP greatly amplifies spikes and droops in the current. For best results you should run an 8 or 10-guage wire from the battery for more consistent power. Use a relay if you want to maintain the fuel pump shutoff switch functionality.

    The fuel shutoff switch is at the top, near the lid of the trunk. The FPDM is the black box with the white sticker on it, at the bottom of the wall.



    Closer up:

    I

    Notice that the side of the trunk is a good 4" away from side of the car. This is great, because you can mount things to it without being anywhere near your exterior chassis or the fender. These trunks are terrific for stereo installs because of this.


    The first step in the wiring is to unplug the FPDM and remove the tape from the wiring, you're looking for the white wire. Not that white wires are any better than black wires, or red wires, or blue wires or green wires, don't get me wrong. But the BAP needs to get spliced in with whitey for your car to go faster.



    So I cut the white wire here, stripped the ends and crimped connectors on both. Note that it's always best to add in a bit of solder if possible to ensure a perfect connection. Now we're ready to splice in the red BAP wires.

    Very important, the one with the fuse connects to the UPPER wire (from the fuel shutoff switch) and the one without the fuse connects to the LOWER wire (going to the FPDM plug).



    You can also see I've mounted the BAP in this picture. It fits perfectly between the fuel pump switch and FPDM, almost like the car was built for it. I love when things come together perfectly. You can also see BAP's ground wire snaking under the FPDM and bolted to the frame.

    Here's a closeup of the ground:



    Rusty bolts increase current capacity by five times. True story.

    The BAP also comes with a long wire to connect to a boost switch for remote control activation. It sounds like a cool feature but is totally unnecessary. Short the wire out and skip making the lengthy run to the front of your car. Trust me, you'll see why when you read further about the knob.



    You can actually cut off the majority of the wire too. I kept mine spooled up for future, just in case.

    So here's the BAP mounted, grounded, and wired in between the Fuel Shutoff Switch and the FPDM. Notice the fuse is quite accessable still!



    All that's left is the BAP control knob that you saw in the first picture. It's connected to the BAP by a gold-plated RCA (~component) cable. Here is it added into the mix and one final look at the install before we cover everything back up.



    So, about the knob. It's INTENDED installation point is where the driver can reach it, and supposedly move it during motor vehicle operation. This may work well in cars not driven by an ECU, but the Marauder ECU needs to learn the voltages it needs to send to the FPDM and Fuel Pump to achieve certain fuel flow rates. Long story short, this knob is best set once and left alone. If you were to change the setting later, your car would be lean or rich and would have to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table to get the fuel flow correct again. I put mine at max and haven't touched it since.


    Here's the carpet all put back in place, covering up the install almost perfectly.



    You can peek-a-BAP right next to the air suspension shutoff switch. The BAP never gets hot to the touch, and the control knob is reachable by pulling back the carpet at the very top (though I never change the setting).


    One last point to note - the car will have to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table every time you reflash it. For best results, you need to drive it for awhile to let it learn what works best, then log the voltages it is using and change the table in your tune directly. Then when you reprogram your car, it will run like a champ right away, instead of starting off with fuel issues while it adapts the table to the BAP. I will post a guide to LiveLink and will cover this procedure in another thread at a later date.
    Last edited by JoeBoomz; 08-04-2013 at 10:03 PM.

  2. #2
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    Detailed write up.

    I would upgrade the fuse. Mine caught on fire.
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  3. #3
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    +1 on the fuse holder, additionally, the Hobbs switch is adjustable, you can set it to turn the BAP on at lower, or higher boost levels.
    I LOVE Jerry's bar, it's my kinda place...........






    When you are dead, you dont know you are dead. It is difficult only for others. It is the same way when you are stupid.

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  4. #4
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    Thanks guys!

    The install "sheet" (I use the term loosely with little respect - it was horrible to read) indicated the factory fuse under the hood should be upgraded to 40A. Is this the one you guys are referring to, or are you talking about the inline fuse that came on the BAP input wire?

    Quote Originally Posted by Spectragod View Post
    +1 on the fuse holder, additionally, the Hobbs switch is adjustable, you can set it to turn the BAP on at lower, or higher boost levels.
    This would result in the ECU having to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table continually. I'm unsure if it would provide the best results.
    Last edited by JoeBoomz; 10-01-2011 at 07:05 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeBoomz View Post
    Thanks guys!

    The install "sheet" (I use the term loosely with little respect - it was horrible to read) indicated the factory fuse under the hood should be upgraded to 40A. Is this the one you guys are referring to, or are you talking about the inline fuse that came on the BAP input wire?
    That line going to it is factory rated @ 20A IIRC, putting a 40A fuse in there will not increase the amount of amps going to the unit, it'll just burn the line up if there is ever a short circuit, i.e. fire.

    As far as mounting it upside down, it is sideways, but the wires come out the front side, therefore, the ohms will stay inside the BAP when your accelerating. You certainly don't want excessive ohms loose in the trunk though, I hope it is properly vented.
    I LOVE Jerry's bar, it's my kinda place...........






    When you are dead, you dont know you are dead. It is difficult only for others. It is the same way when you are stupid.

    "Chuck Norris built my stock longblock. It runs on the tears of small children and makes 10,000 hp. He said it's his 'street version' "


    Trilogy # 192 / T.S. 0012

    BOOST GETS YOU FELONY STOPPED!!!





  6. #6
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    You mounted it upside down.... it wont work that way


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Matt- View Post
    You mounted it upside down.... it wont work that way
    WRONG, much like a bottle of beer or NOS bottle; it's MUCH better upside down.

    Seriously though, the orientation was chosen for the direction of the wiring.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeBoomz View Post
    WRONG, much like a bottle of beer or NOS bottle; it's MUCH better upside down.

    Seriously though, the orientation was chosen for the direction of the wiring.

    Well no 'cause the fuel fairies need to be able to flow through the static bobulator in a north to south direction... if you flip it the fairies would think that you are driving in china... and thats not good.


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  9. #9
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    This guys shows the correct mounting position..... bazzlebear edition



    2003 Marauder - Ebony
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Matt- View Post
    This guys shows the correct mounting position..... bazzlebear edition

    OMG!!! LMAO!! I foregot about this vid. "yellow top baby"!! "justbobs babies". Bazzle Bear Lmao!!


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  11. #11
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    Oh yeah, yellow top FTW, that's some NIIICE work with the glowing thingies!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeBoomz View Post
    Oh yeah, yellow top FTW, that's some NIIICE work with the glowing thingies!

    Why thank you kind sir.... some say my cars nicer then DOOMS..... some.....


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  13. #13
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    Great write up but I noticed you didn't use a relay to supply the the boost a pumps power. Also I thought you splice into the pink and black wire or use that and the trigger for the relay. Anyone else notice these things?


    2003 300A Black MM
    Quote Originally Posted by magindat View Post
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  14. #14
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    The comment a tad more you writeup is to install your BAP Pre FPDM my existing setup is After FPDM that's why I spliced into the pink&black wire that feeds the pump directly. What's preferred thou with a vehicle at 500+rwhp?


    2003 300A Black MM
    Quote Originally Posted by magindat View Post
    Modding a Marauder is a classy, time taking experience - like sipping fine aged spirits. It's meant to take your time, savor, and enjoy!!!!
    FRPP ALUMINATOR MOTOR 10:1
    BC AUTOMOTIVE TRANNY 2800 STALL
    TRILOGY S/C WITH POSI PERFORMANCE PORT
    STAINLESS WORKS LT HEADERS
    METCO REAR CONTROL ARMS AND WATTS LINK
    ADDCO FRONT & REAR SWAY BAR
    MONROE HD QUICK STRUTS FRONT
    QA1 ADJUSTABLE REAR SHOCKS
    EATON LIMTED SLIP DIFF:FORD RACING 4.10'S
    DUAL AEROMOTIVE 340LPH PUMPS, 40AMP BAP, WITH DUAL FPDM'S
    ZACKS BIG BRAKE SWAP w/ TCE SS LINES
    SCANGAUGE MONITORING....^....^....^
    ALL SECURIED WITH A VIPER SECURITY SYSTEM REMOTELY STARTED BY MY VIPER IPHONE APP

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by NATEHAWK View Post
    The comment a tad more you writeup is to install your BAP Pre FPDM my existing setup is After FPDM that's why I spliced into the pink&black wire that feeds the pump directly. What's preferred thou with a vehicle at 500+rwhp?
    The concensus is that you wire the BAP before the FPDM, otherwise your ECU will not be able to control the fuel pump as intended.


    Quote Originally Posted by NATEHAWK View Post
    Great write up but I noticed you didn't use a relay to supply the the boost a pumps power. Also I thought you splice into the pink and black wire or use that and the trigger for the relay. Anyone else notice these things?
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeBoomz View Post
    The BAP will work off the stock wiring, however the BAP greatly amplifies spikes and droops in the current. For best results you should run an 8 or 10-guage wire from the battery for more consistent power. Use a relay if you want to maintain the fuel pump shutoff switch functionality.
    For best results, you should use the output from the fuel pump shutoff switch to trigger the relay, and feed an 8ga wire from the battery into the relay to go into the BAP.
    Last edited by JoeBoomz; 10-25-2011 at 08:32 AM.

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