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Thread: BAP Installation with Pics

  1. #46
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  2. #47
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    Thanks for the replies. OK, I don't think I will be over 450hp so I just have it set to be on at all times powered with the stock wiring. The Trilogy manual says to set it at 10... but here it says crank it up to maximum. Should I just turn it all the way up?
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    Trilogy #238
    Build date:8/14/02 - Bought:4/5/07

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cougar_Marauder View Post
    Thanks for the replies. OK, I don't think I will be over 450hp so I just have it set to be on at all times powered with the stock wiring. The Trilogy manual says to set it at 10... but here it says crank it up to maximum. Should I just turn it all the way up?
    It won't hurt to have it at max, the ECU will dial the voltage to the pump down to maintain constant pressure at the fuel rails.

  4. #49
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    Important update: You may need to run a dedicated bap power wire

    After my initial BAP install on the factory wiring, the results looked promising. Duty cycles were consistently lower, and rail pressures were consistently higher in logging.

    However in random circumstances I still experienced detonation at full loads and higher RPM's. The randomness of this was a pain because it always happened when I wasn't logging, and didn't when I was.

    So when I did my stereo install, I decided to also run a dedicated 4ga. power wire for the BAP to see if that would help the issue. I am pleased to say it solved it 100% and I haven't had a single instance of detonation now in the last month since completing the wiring upgrade. The results of the upgrade aren't very obvious with logging, but this has solved the apparent low-power instances when the factory wire couldn't get enough current into the BAP.

    Bottom line: the 40A BAP is a power-hungry beast and I highly recommend making a dedicated run of power wire to it from the battery, 8ga. or bigger.

    I posted pictures and details about running the extra BAP power wire during my stereo install thread:http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=80398


    The Marauder can also benefit further from running larger gauge wire from the FPDM to the fuel pump(s), however this is a more involved job that requires pulling the fuel pump assembly out from the tank (I have not done it on my car). Anyone that is swapping out fuel pumps should consider taking this step as it is an easy extra step once you have the fuel pump in-hand.


    You can probably get away with using the white factory wire for applications that are safely under 450HP but if you're getting anywhere beyond 400HP I'd highly recommend the wiring upgrade from the battery to the BAP. The distance the current has to travel to feed the 40A BAP is just too great for the small factory wire that is currently in place. I don't know if this would be true with the smaller 20A model of the BAP but I think for the $20 price difference most will just go with the more powerful version anyway.


    Tonight I will be posting a bunch of datalogs of different BAP knob settings. I will make a few comments along the way.


    DATALOGS BEFORE THE WIRING UPGRADE

    First, take a look at the base SCT fuel table, most importantly near the top where the system will try to match the Air/Fuel ratio under full loads:

    This is an Air/Fuel ratio number, so at 0.796 we are supposed to have more fuel than air. (note I will deliberately avoid a discussion regarding stoich here)

    Remember FRACTIONS back in school?
    Top value > (greater than) bottom value gives you a number greater than one.
    Top value = (equal to) bottom value gives you a 1.
    Top value < (less than) bottom value gives you a number smaller than 1.

    So when we're talking AIR over FUEL:
    1 is equal amounts air and fuel,
    Greater than 1 means more air than fuel (lean)
    ...and Less than 1 means less air than fuel (rich - which is where we want to be to have more power at Wide Open Throttle so you can make your exhaust tips nice and black at the ends!)

    Let's see what the datalogs show is actually happening at different BAP knob settings.

    Note: The TP (throttle position) in the above table is NOT equal to the LOAD in the below tables! They are mostly relative, however; the engine will be under high load if the TP is high. So this means the top part of the above chart can (mostly) be compared to the top part of the below charts when we're looking at the air/fuel ratio.


    BAP knob at ~50%:



    Duty cycle seems OK here with a max reading of 0.45 (equals 90%)

    "but Joe," they say, "how do you get your data into the charts to look at it like you have here?" This I posted at the following thread:
    http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=80544




    Here we see some drops in the rail pressures, below 30PSI. There are many factors at play to keep the rail pressure up, and just because the duty cycle isn't maxed it doesn't mean you are going to get commanded pressure.




    There are lean conditions in some spots here.
    This means the A/F is near or above 1 in the cells at the top of the chart - which is not what the base fuel table commands! Uh oh! Let's put the BAP knob up a bit.


    BAP knob at ~75%:.


    The highest value we see here is 0.43 = 86% duty cycle.




    Things are looking better for fuel rail pressures! Did turning the knob up help, or are we prone to some random changes in the data due to operating temperatures or other variables???




    We are still seeing lean conditions at the top end of the chart. Let's put the BAP knob at 100% (remember we are still on factory wiring).


    BAP knob at 100%:


    Hmmm, largest value here is 0.44 (88%) - which is worse off than we seemed to be at 75% knob setting.

    Again, you never know if another variable like operating temperatures affected the results, but they seemed consistently the same or worse than the previous settings.

    At this point I started wondering if it was instead a BAP power issue, perhaps the BAP was already starved for power at the lower knob setting already and turning the knob up has little effect?




    The fuel rail numbers were still not consistently close to the 40PSI range that I'd like to see in the top end.




    ...and we're still running a bit lean at the top end of the chart.


    Let's take a look at the datalogs after the wiring upgrade (in the next post because we're at 10 pictures in this one).
    Last edited by JoeBoomz; 07-10-2012 at 07:00 PM.

  5. #50
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    Thumbs up After the wiring upgrade

    The below RED 4ga. wire was run through the passenger side firewall in this location:


    ...through the factory wiring channel down the passenger side of the car and up into the trunk...

    ...and into a fuse/distribution block to which the main BAP power wire was directly connected:

    Notice the white factory fuel power wires was cut here, I taped it up and left it loose. The other end is still connected to the BAP output wire as before.

    Also notice I did NOT connect the BAP to the fuel shutoff switch in any way (usually done via relay). This is because in previous vehicles I have had the bass from the stereo trip the fuel shutoff, which is NOT something I want happening in my Marauder under high boost if the stereo happens to be pounding at the same time.

    I also moved the BAP knob to a more accessible, but still nicely out of the way location:



    DATALOGS AFTER THE WIRING UPGRADE

    So to start, I set the BAP knob to 50% after the wiring upgrade.


    BAP knob at 50%:


    OK, our max duty cycle here is 0.48 = 96%.




    ... and we still have low rail pressure near the top end




    The Air/fuel looks a bit improved now, though! Let's crank the knob to 100% and see what it does now that the wiring upgrade is in place.


    BAP knob at 100%:


    Duty cycle max is 0.42 (84%) - this is a definite improvement over the duty cycle we saw at 100% with the factory wiring!

    But notice across the entire table, the duty cycles are ALL consistently lower. This looks promising.




    Rail pressures are all more consistent across the board, closer to 40PSI. There are still some cells that are a bit lower than I'd expected.





    We've got a lot of solid data here for the upper end of the table, and the AF ratio looks to be bang on to the Base Fuel Table that is programmed.

    There are still some outliers with strange values in the table. So let's convert the vertical LOAD axis to TP_RELATIVE instead so we can compare it directly to the Base Fuel Table.



    This table paints a clear picture of what is happening with the car's Air/Fuel based on the throttle position. And it also shows that the TP_RELATIVE is not exactly relative to LOAD in certain situations (for example, when you quickly take your foot off the gas pedal).


    Anyway I hope this helps a few people out along the way! If you use the factory wiring, listen for detonation, and if you have any whatsoever with the BAP knob at 100%, it's time to do the wiring upgrade!
    Last edited by JoeBoomz; 07-09-2012 at 10:42 PM.

  6. #51
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    2013 BAP Installation Wiring Diagrams

    Since posting this I've had a few PM's with questions asking for more clarity on the wiring. So here we go!


    Factory wiring, untouched:



    Easy installation, good for under ~425HP.



    Wire upgrade to battery, disables the Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch:

    (CAUTION the Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch is a SAFETY FEATURE, I recommend keeping it by using a relay as shown below)

    Also, if you skip the relay, the BAP will ALWAYS draw power, THIS WILL KILL YOUR BATTERY IF YOUR CAR IS PARKED FOR OVER A FEW WEEKS!


    Wire upgrade to battery with minimum 30a. relay to retain Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch functionality:

    Most any automotive relays can be used as long as the amperage is sufficient. The above pic is a single pole double throw. Double pole double throw relays are also common and you just don't use the secondary output (pin 87a).


    Further wiring improvements are possible by increasing the wire size from the FPDM outputs to the fuel pump.


    If you are going with a return-style fuel system, wire directly from BAP output to the fuel pump(s). Use 8ga. or larger wire for best results. But you need to set up a relay to the fuel shutoff switch or to your ignition source because the pump(s) are run at 100% all the time and you need a way to turn it/them off.
    Last edited by JoeBoomz; 08-13-2013 at 08:43 PM.

  7. #52
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    I wonder if I need to use a BAP with the aeromotive 340 pump?
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  8. #53
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    Thanks for posting a better wiring of the relay Joe. That was the one thing missing from BAP installs of previous posts.
    Born 03/04
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  9. #54
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    Great write up. Good to see you preserved the factory control of the fuel pump. In a worst-case scenario, you want that crash fuel shutoff shutoff switch to function.
    Lifespeed

    2004 Silver Birch Marauder 130K miles
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  10. #55
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    Thanks Joe. I used this today to wire my BAP up


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  11. #56
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    Joe ,

    It looks like the finalized wiring diagram has gone away from the above post?
    Could you repost?
    I installed a booster and relay, with a dedicated line up to the battery, and I am having some problems. I want to make sure I have the proper diagram before I start taking things apart.
    Thanks
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  12. #57
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    All the old posts like this one lost pics when they upgraded years and years ago. Most of the members on this post are no longer here nor own a marauder
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  13. #58
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    I'm about to install mine, I see the pictures for the most simple way. My question is that I have 2 black wires coming out of the amp, do I ground both together or just 1 or...? Lmk if You know. Thank You.


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