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Thread: T242 Install – My Solution To The Trilogy Install Knock Sensor Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    T242 Install – My Solution To The Trilogy Install Knock Sensor Issue

    After doing a lot of reading before starting the install of T242, I was in agreement with the consensus that relocating the knock sensor to the back of the head was not the best idea – picking up cam vibes, etc. I also did not want the sensor disabled in the tune.

    After doing the disassembly I was staring at the valley thinking when it occurred to me that the best location for the sensor was where Ford designed it to be. There was plenty of room under the lower intake. Here is what I came up with:

    Tools Required:


    The install manual wants you to remove 3/16" of the sensor mount bosses. I found standing in the engine bay the easiest way to complete this task:


    Using a pencil & depth guage mark a line around the bosses at the required 3/16". Then using an air cut off wheel with 1/16 cutting wheel, slice the required piece of the boss off just like a meat slicer:
    Before

    After


    You will now have 2 slices of the boss, use 1 as a template to mark the curve of the boss on a 1/2" aluminum spacer. I used an old alternator spacer in my bucket of junk parts:


    Using a 90* air drill (air works best, electric is too large for the work area) drill a hole at 90* to the OEM bolt hole for the sensor (you will need shorty bits for this). You want the center of the hole you are drilling to intersect the bottom plane of the OEM hole, this will put the sensor just below the lower intake. The passenger side sensor I located slightly to the back of the boss as the casting was in the way if centered and this also located the sensor away from the rib on the bottom of the lower intake. Tap your new hole (M8x1.25 I think it was) to reuse the OEM bolt. Mix some JB Weld and coat the side of the boss and the curved side of your customized spacer. Slide OEM bolt thru the sensor, thru the spacer and in to your new bolt hole & tighten down. Now use some of the JB Weld to fill in the joint between the spacer & boss. Put a skim coat of antiseize on the bolt where it passes thru the spacer to prevent the JB weld from adhering to it, use blue Loctite on threads where the bolt threads in to the boss.

    Here is the final result:



    I think this would work for the engines with dual sensors if you use a low profile head bolt and do some manipulating of the coolant tube curve in the valley.

    Worked great, runs great!

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  2. #2
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    Good write up!

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  3. #3
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    Good idea!
    04 MERCURY MARAUDER build date:02/11/04
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  4. #4
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    An alternative would be to use Duramix epoxy to hold them in place.
    I LOVE Jerry's bar, it's my kinda place...........






    When you are dead, you don’t know you are dead. It is difficult only for others. It is the same way when you are stupid.

    "Chuck Norris built my stock longblock. It runs on the tears of small children and makes 10,000 hp. He said it's his 'street version' "


    Trilogy # 192 / T.S. 0012

    BOOST GETS YOU FELONY STOPPED!!!





  5. #5
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    Hopefully the Eaton won't make it constantly pull timing!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectragod View Post
    An alternative would be to use Duramix epoxy to hold them in place.
    Have not used that product. Will research it. I wanted to make the sensor metal to metal contact for vibe transfer and also allow it to be removed like OEM.

    Always interested in new stuff.

    Thanks!

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  7. #7
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    Very cool!

    I might have to pop my intakes off and re-do it in the spring!
    2003 Marauder 300eh - Stock

    Born: 12/03/2002
    Adopted 02/17/2003

    Trilogy #243

    AVIC D3
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    I can't drive 55. I'm looking forward to not being able to drive 75 ether.

  8. #8
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    Very Nice! Good idea.
    It's all BS until you can show me the time slip!

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    505 RWHP at Mo's untuned.


    10/16 mods
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    621/626 on E49 tuned for E85
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    Have not used that product. Will research it. I wanted to make the sensor metal to metal contact for vibe transfer and also allow it to be removed like OEM.

    Always interested in new stuff.

    Thanks!
    Getting it apart may be an issue, you can glue rocks together with this stuff. I have never had anything come apart that I used this on.
    I LOVE Jerry's bar, it's my kinda place...........






    When you are dead, you don’t know you are dead. It is difficult only for others. It is the same way when you are stupid.

    "Chuck Norris built my stock longblock. It runs on the tears of small children and makes 10,000 hp. He said it's his 'street version' "


    Trilogy # 192 / T.S. 0012

    BOOST GETS YOU FELONY STOPPED!!!





  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    After doing a lot of reading before starting the install of T242, I was in agreement with the consensus that relocating the knock sensor to the back of the head was not the best idea – picking up cam vibes, etc. I also did not want the sensor disabled in the tune.

    After doing the disassembly I was staring at the valley thinking when it occurred to me that the best location for the sensor was where Ford designed it to be. There was plenty of room under the lower intake. Here is what I came up with:

    Tools Required:


    The install manual wants you to remove 3/16" of the sensor mount bosses. I found standing in the engine bay the easiest way to complete this task:


    Using a pencil & depth guage mark a line around the bosses at the required 3/16". Then using an air cut off wheel with 1/16 cutting wheel, slice the required piece of the boss off just like a meat slicer:
    Before

    After


    You will now have 2 slices of the boss, use 1 as a template to mark the curve of the boss on a 1/2" aluminum spacer. I used an old alternator spacer in my bucket of junk parts:


    Using a 90* air drill (air works best, electric is too large for the work area) drill a hole at 90* to the OEM bolt hole for the sensor (you will need shorty bits for this). You want the center of the hole you are drilling to intersect the bottom plane of the OEM hole, this will put the sensor just below the lower intake. The passenger side sensor I located slightly to the back of the boss as the casting was in the way if centered and this also located the sensor away from the rib on the bottom of the lower intake. Tap your new hole (M8x1.25 I think it was) to reuse the OEM bolt. Mix some JB Weld and coat the side of the boss and the curved side of your customized spacer. Slide OEM bolt thru the sensor, thru the spacer and in to your new bolt hole & tighten down. Now use some of the JB Weld to fill in the joint between the spacer & boss. Put a skim coat of antiseize on the bolt where it passes thru the spacer to prevent the JB weld from adhering to it, use blue Loctite on threads where the bolt threads in to the boss.

    Here is the final result:



    I think this would work for the engines with dual sensors if you use a low profile head bolt and do some manipulating of the coolant tube curve in the valley.

    Worked great, runs great!
    It is a geat idea, the proof will come when data loging the knock sensor whilie on the dyno and I gladd your cooling kit worked out.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Reinhart View Post
    It is a great idea, the proof will come when data loging the knock sensor while on the dyno
    Thanks Dennis.

    Probably won't get it on any dyno till next year so we'll see then.

    Hope the family medical emergency resolved in a good way.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

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