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Thread: fuel rail

  1. #1
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    fuel rail

    I was checking on codes to see if I had a hts or wts going bad ( my temp gauge acting up) and had no code for that but I did have one thing come up I have never heard of, it was a fuel rail pressure sensor reading high. Anyone know what this is? I just bought this marauder and I am going through a few little quirks it has. Thank's, Tony

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndmm View Post
    I was checking on codes to see if I had a hts or wts going bad ( my temp gauge acting up) and had no code for that but I did have one thing come up I have never heard of, it was a fuel rail pressure sensor reading high. Anyone know what this is? I just bought this marauder and I am going through a few little quirks it has. Thank's, Tony
    What was the code number?

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  3. #3
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    I am sorry I don't remember the number, I just remember the code meant the sensor was reading above normal or high on the range scale. Sorry, I will right it down next time, I cleared the code to keep an eye on it and haven't had any cel. Just bought the car friday and have a few little things to fix, previous owner replaced all 4 tires with kdw's but kept them all the same size so my tc will malfunction if it is on, and a few of the interior switch lights are out. I felt like I got a good deal on the car though. Got it for 6k, has 145k miles on it but the interior is better than my other 03 with 70k on it. I need to repaint the ft and rr bumper covers but it has never been hit and the door seams have zero rust. Thank's for any input you can give me on it. Tony

  4. #4
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    Your not super charged are you? Very common to have the light come on for this being S/C'd, just ignore and turn it off. If not, maybe your just do for a new one? Your are looking for the FRPS on the passenger side fuel rail. It has a harness and an electrical plug, screwed down with two little screws. Easy fix,


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  5. #5
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    I wish I was s/c but not at this time. I think I seen the sensor you are referring to, does it have a 3 wire harness?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndmm View Post
    I wish I was s/c but not at this time. I think I seen the sensor you are referring to, does it have a 3 wire harness?
    I meant to say it has a vacuum line and a harness. All the way to the front of the rail. Can't recall how many wires, but that sounds right. They don't care for sudden release of throttle under WOT, that's why they are very common failures on cobra's. Blower and manual trans equals a lot sudden spiked fuel pressures. At your mileage, I would replace and move on.


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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  7. #7
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    Black square on the end of the fuel rail is the FRPS.






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  8. #8
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    I've had this. P0455 I think. Replaced the sensor and it came back after a couple months. The vacuum hose connectors are old and need a little silicone. Silicone the one on the sensor and follow the line to the intake manifold. Silicone that connector, wait a couple hours and no more code. And I don't have an occasional bumping idle when coasting anymore either.
    Last edited by tbone; 01-09-2013 at 05:33 AM.

  9. #9
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    thank's all. I will replace the vacuum lines when I do the sensor. Thank you, Tony

  10. #10
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    Just do what I suggested, disco the battery to clear the code, and save $75.

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