OEM Marauder hood.

[Blk04MM]

Just curious what one would pay for one?

I'm THINKING of getting a cowl and definitely wouldn't need the OEM. This is NOT A for sale thread. Just curious.


And does anyone currently have one on? Pros and cons please!

Thanks.

[gdmjoe]

If you're going to get/apply a cowl scoop, why bother limiting yourself to Marauder only.

Any 1998+ Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis hood is a direct replacement.

As for me ... Paid $20 for a Marauder hood - had been in an accident and had several scratches and a small dent (where an opening was cut for the scoop).

Areas that were cut-out .....

[J-MAN]

What material is the scoop made from and how did you bond it to the hood? Is it holding up?

[Blk04MM]

If you're going to get/apply a cowl scoop, why bother limiting yourself to Marauder only.

Any 1998+ Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis hood is a direct replacement.

As for me ... Paid $20 for a Marauder hood - had been in an accident and had several scratches and a small dent (where an opening was cut for the scoop).

Areas that were cut-out .....

I was going to order the one avaliable for the marauder.

How heavy was your design?

[gdmjoe]

J-MAN - What material is the scoop made from ...

Fiberglass ...


*Intended use was 1987 Mustang.

... and how did you bond it to the hood?

The body shop that did the work used 3M panel bonding, however, can't recall the particulars.

Is it holding up?

Done in Aug'2006 and has held-up MUCH more betterer than I thought it would. Especially since I know the issues when bonding dissimiliar materials and it being BLACK.

There is only one hair-line, 2" long crack (an exaggeration for what it really is) that shows-up every-now-and-then in cold weather. However, once it goes into the sun and/or warms-up it disappears. Noone else has ever noticed it.
.

[gdmjoe]

Blk04MM ... How heavy was your design?

Never weighed it after it was completed. Do know that it is slightly heavier, though I could still lift and carry it by myself and there hasn't been any issues with the hood struts being able to support it at any opening height.

Do know that SUBSTANTIAL weight could have been saved -IF- I had opted (like the body shop wanted) to remove the inner panel. However, did not want to compromise the integrity / rigidity of the hood. I believe that this is also the reason why there hasn't been the per usual stress cracks that appear on metal hoods with fiberglass scoops attached.
.

[Spectragod]

I was going to order the one avaliable for the marauder.

How heavy was your design?

Class Glass hood is a pile of junk, mine's on the 2nd trip to the body shop to resolve it's issues, if it doesn't "look" what I feel is acceptable................. I have a range and a pair of M249's lined up for a video of it's destruction.....

[Blk04MM]

Fiberglass ...


*Intended use was 1987 Mustang.


The body shop that did the work used 3M panel bonding, however, can't recall the particulars.


Done in Aug'2006 and has held-up MUCH more betterer than I thought it would. Especially since I know the issues when bonding dissimiliar materials and it being BLACK.

There is only one hair-line, 2" long crack (an exaggeration for what it really is) that shows-up every-now-and-then in cold weather. However, once it goes into the sun and/or warms-up it disappears. Noone else has ever noticed it.
.

Ok. Looks good too. Would a vinyl wrap hold up or would it need to be sent to a body shop for paint first

[Blk04MM]

Never weighed it after it was completed. Do know that it is slightly heavier, though I could still lift and carry it by myself and there hasn't been any issues with the hood struts being able to support it at any opening height.

Do know that SUBSTANTIAL weight could have been saved -IF- I had opted (like the body shop wanted) to remove the inner panel. However, did not want to compromise the integrity / rigidity of the hood. I believe that this is also the reason why there hasn't been the per usual stress cracks that appear on metal hoods with fiberglass scoops attached.
.

Gotcha. Thanks for the info

[Blk04MM]

Class Glass hood is a pile of junk, mine's on the 2nd trip to the body shop to resolve it's issues, if it doesn't "look" what I feel is acceptable................. I have a range and a pair of M249's lined up for a video of it's destruction.....

Lol. Damn .....

[justbob]

Class Glass hood is a pile of junk, mine's on the 2nd trip to the body shop to resolve it's issues, if it doesn't "look" what I feel is acceptable................. I have a range and a pair of M249's lined up for a video of it's destruction.....

Yup. Agree 100%. One year later after spending $850.00 getting mine stripped, straightened out, and repainted, and it has all shrunk up. Only true benefits are heat extraction for the Heaton (and it definitely does good with that) and weight savings, way more than I expected, this hood is super lite.

Soooo $450 for hood, $350ish for materials for me to paint, problems painting, $250 for new gun, still operator issues like never before, $250 material and $200 labor for ex body shop friend to repaint and end up with solvent pop, and finally $850 at a shop, scratched to holy hell a week later, shrunk after one year.

What's that $2350??? Yeah, I guess either I am a sucker, or don't know when to cash in the chips, perhaps both...

But wait, there is still more expense!

Struts!

The struts they tell you to buy. DON'T because they are still to strong and were bending the crap out of my hood! Look for my thread on here for ClassGlass relocation and replacement hood struts. Total win. I pulled my engine and didn't need to raise the hood any higher. In fact I never even came remotely close to needing too.


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[DOOM]

Class Glass hood is a pile of junk, mine's on the 2nd trip to the body shop to resolve it's issues, if it doesn't "look" what I feel is acceptable................. I have a range and a pair of M249's lined up for a video of it's destruction.....

Why don't you just put the stock hood back on?

I know you shouldn't have any clearance issues with the twinscrew. Or am I wrong?

Plus me personally, I love the sleeper look.

[Blk04MM]

Yup. Agree 100%. One year later after spending $850.00 getting mine stripped, straightened out, and repainted, and it has all shrunk up. Only true benefits are heat extraction for the Heaton (and it definitely does good with that) and weight savings, way more than I expected, this hood is super lite.

Soooo $450 for hood, $350ish for materials for me to paint, problems painting, $250 for new gun, still operator issues like never before, $250 material and $200 labor for ex body shop friend to repaint and end up with solvent pop, and finally $850 at a shop, scratched to holy hell a week later, shrunk after one year.

What's that $2350??? Yeah, I guess either I am a sucker, or don't know when to cash in the chips, perhaps both...

But wait, there is still more expense!

Struts!

The struts they tell you to buy. DON'T because they are still to strong and were bending the crap out of my hood! Look for my thread on here for ClassGlass relocation and replacement hood struts. Total win. I pulled my engine and didn't need to raise the hood any higher. In fact I never even came remotely close to needing too.


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Looks like I'll be passing on their hood. That's crazy

[justbob]

Forgot pics.

Sorry, not exactly a good time right now..



And with my hood strut mod. LOVE IT!



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[guspech750]

Why don't you just put the stock hood back on?

I know you shouldn't have any clearance issues with the twinscrew. Or am I wrong?

Plus me personally, I love the sleeper look.

Takedown has the Trilogy TS with the OEM hood.


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DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom