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Thread: Lighted Door Switch Repair - Writeup

  1. #1
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    Lighted Door Switch Repair - Writeup

    This is a multiple posts writeup, as I tried to do it all in one, but forum rules won't let me post that much all in one, so it will be multiples - sorry.

    So after looking at my driver's side window switch panel again last night (with its non-working drivers window switch bulbs), I decided to go all out trying to fix it.

    While doing so I thought I would take pictures for a writeup in case I got it to work. If someone already did this, excuse the repost, but didn't see it listed in DIY and thought it might be useful.

    The following was done on a 2003 MM 300A, the switches had been replaced by the previous owner, and may have come from something other than a MM, however I believe they will be the same circuit wise, as they look the same.

    *Disclaimer* This is a long writeup, however in reality it is very simple. All you need to know is a very little bit about soldering.

    Items you will need:
    Pencil Soldering Iron
    Thin Solder
    Electrical Cleaner (I prefer CRC)
    Flathead screwdriver...few different widths would be helpful, but definetly a small one.
    Steady hand

    Optional:
    Battery charger
    2 Small pieces of wire with female ends

    1. Remove the switch panel in regards to the problem. NOTE - Remove the panel by pulling up on the forward section (towards front of car) first. If you pull from the back you will break the rear tab and will need to replace the switch panel. Once you get the front loose, just slide the panel out.

    2. Disconnect the connectors from the back of the switch, there should be 4, you can't miss them.


    3. Take the panel inside to a clean workplace.
    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

  2. #2
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    4. Remove the switch assembly from the panel. When you flip the panel over you will see 4 total tabs that hold the switches in the panel. Lightly pry up on these areas one at a time until you get the switches out.




    5. Set the panel aside and now move the switches where you will be working.


    6. Pry up on the buttons one by one to unsnap them from module. I find this is easiest to do by pressing down on the button then sliding a flat screwdriver in and prying up some, they will come right off. Do this to all the switches not just the one in question. You will now be able to look into the individual switch holes and see the 2 LEDs for each switch.




    Note on the window lock switch there is a little metal piece under the button that freely floats in there. Be careful from now forward not to loose that piece by accidentally flipping it over etc. We will remove it soon.
    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

  3. #3
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    7. Now remove the top plastic section of the switch assembly so you can get to the circuit board. Again there are 4 tabs that need to be lightly pried up, I again did this will a small screwdriver, but be gentle, you don't want to break a tab off.



    After doing this you can place that little metal piece for the window lock aside (don't loose it)


    8. Go ahead and remove the lower plastic section of the housing. This time you spread the outer plastic piece away from the tabs, 3 on each side.
    See this picture again


    9. Now you are getting to what we care about.



    Note the little LEDs circled here
    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

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    10. Now is a time we can go ahead and start testing the board to see which all LEDs have problems. I found that while I only noticed 1 switch out, 4 LEDs had problems. This step can be skipped if you want or don't have a car charger, but I find it easier to check my work so often. So I used a small 12 car charger, 2 small pieces of wire with female crimp ends on them to test.

    When you look at the bottom section of tabs on the back of the circuit board, you wil notice there are 3 tabs, 2 together, and then a space, then 1 single. The first tab (L) is the power for the lights, the last tab (G) is the ground. So hook up appropriatly



    I was then able to see which bulbs light up, and by pressing on the board in certain areas I could get them to light or not, and I was also able to see some of the other bulbs flicker when pressing on the board, leading me to believe they would be going out too before long.



    Now that you know the problem areas, you can disconnect the power.

    11. The next thing to address is the little tabs holding the circuit board onto the assembly. These tabs are copper power supplies. If they are not tight onto the board it will cause you problems. You need to get a flat blade screw driver and place under the board to help slowly pry the board up and out. I position the screwdriver under the green strips painted on the board and press up. The largest screwdriver that will fit is best.

    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

  5. #5
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    12. Now set the switch assembly aside, all we want is the board. Flip the board over and you will see the circuitry and where all the LEDs are soldered to the board as well as the resistors. I took this time to check the conections, see if anything looked broken etc, I checked the circuitry too, following it back to see if there were any visible cracks. If there are you may need to solder a small piece of copper wire from one side of the circuit (before break) to other side (after break). I didnt have to do that though.
    However to be safe and since I had other bulbs flickering, I resoldered everything. I took a pencil soldering iron and some very small solder and soldered a little bit extra onto all the led contacts as well as resistors, and even the little circles on the board...if its solder...I resoldered.

    I actually even soldered the holes that the contacts go into as well, to help build them up, then ran a red hot needle through to open them up enough for the contacts...however this part can probably be easily skipped.

    LEDs circled in red




    Now I find is a good time to clean everything. I got some CRC electrical contact cleaner and sprayed the switches, the board, everything. If you are like me you may find some burn marks on your switches. You can easy pry out the switch activators and clean each metal bar and contact with a screwdriver, etc to get them off, or just use some contact cleaner on everything.

    I also took this time to look at the copper connectors that hold the board down, seeing as how they supply power I found this a good time to clean them as well. I was able to see some buildup (corrosion) on them, which I lightly hit with a very small file to clean up.




    13. Now its time to put stuff back together. We need to go ahead and press the board back onto the switch assembly. The little copper supports will snap into the board.


    Now I took a small nail and hammer and press the nail into the split of the copper pieces and lightly tap to spread them open and down onto the board, tap until the board has no movement. You can optionally solder the supports to the board, however if you need to take it apart again that could be a mess.
    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

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    14. Now lets hookup the testing equipment again, just like before, and make sure everything works.


    Assuming everything now works, proceed to 15. If not, try tapping the copper supports open a little more to see if thats the problem. If not you will have to repeat the soldering...or check for a crack in the circuit...these can be tiny...get a magnifying glass.

    15. Almost done now. Snap the bottom plastic piece back on the switch assembly. Then place the copper window lock piece back on as shown.


    Now place the top plastic piece back on, and then finally each switch presses down and on. For the window lock switch it pressed down and on to an angle (as it would sit normally). Test one more time. Press switch assembly back into trim panel and take to car.

    16. Plug in switch panel, and put switch panel back into door panel. Back goes in first, then front snaps down. If you had some slack in the panel before, you can spread the clips lightly before snapping back in and that will help.

    17. You're Done! Turn car to accessory and marvel at just saving yourself money!



    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

  7. #7
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    good write up, this was done some time ago but im not sure if it was ever stickeied. this should be though!
    2010 fusion se


  8. #8
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    I believe Dave is right, but I think even I could do this with your great instructions! Thanks
    2004 DTR Marauder, Built 26 February 2004, Inservice: 02 July 2004 Retired from DD 17 July 2008. Survived the cut, 28 April 2012. Back as a DD as of 18 November 2012.

  9. #9
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    Well done! Glad you were able to fix it yourself and make a good write-up for others.
    -Matt

    2004 MM Silver Birch
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    Member of the SBC
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    What a Marauder lacks in the Crown Victoria's fluffy pillows and lace image, it makes up for in the don't insult my car or I'll punch you in your man-pleaser department.

  10. #10
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    Awesome write up and pictures thanks for sharing!


    Bought Her for my 40th B Day in August of 2004 @ Crest Lincoln Mercury
    Assembled 12/17/2003
    #1183 of a build of 3214
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImpalaSlayer View Post
    im not sure if it was ever stickeied. this should be though!
    It is now!
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  12. #12
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by capt512 View Post
    17. You're Done! Turn car to accessory and marvel at just saving yourself money!



    Capt, excellent write-up! I would say close to half of my LEDs are not working in my MM. I do have a question, though. Is it possible to replace the LEDs? I'm thinking of going with a different color for all of my interior lights.
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  13. #13
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    It does appear you could remove the solder holding the LEDs on and remove the LEDs...however be aware that the replacement LEDs you solder in need to be very very small.
    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

    00 White CVPI (KTA Car)

    1995 Chevy Suburban K1500

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by IwantmyMMnow! View Post
    Capt, excellent write-up! I would say close to half of my LEDs are not working in my MM. I do have a question, though. Is it possible to replace the LEDs? I'm thinking of going with a different color for all of my interior lights.
    Quote Originally Posted by capt512 View Post
    It does appear you could remove the solder holding the LEDs on and remove the LEDs...however be aware that the replacement LEDs you solder in need to be very very small.
    With the cost of the LEDs and the work involved I don't think it would be worth the trouble.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    With the cost of the LEDs and the work involved I don't think it would be worth the trouble.
    Agreed, especially since the only one on mine that's not operating is the driver up... If I went in there it'd probably get a generic from Radio Shack... Ummm, a different color for each switch, how cool would that be???(yeah I'm kiddin')

    BTW I took my mom's '03 Grand Marquis out for a fill up a few days ago and noticed the same one is not lighting...
    45Kmi - Eaton SC - 430RwHp - SOLD!!!!





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