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Thread: Blew an axle seal

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Blew an axle seal

    I noticed a blown axle seal on the passenger side of my 2003 300A (build date 10-4-02) the other day and haven't driven it since. Prior to this, I had been hearing a noise that varied in frequency as the speed of the vehicle changed.

    I used the search function and was able to find the TSB number 03-05-05, but that apparently only applies to vehicles under 36,000 and something about a Ford recall 04S16, which states bad bearings and improper lubrication could lead to axle failure in Crown Vics and Town Cars. Dealers were instructed to install p/n 3W1Z-4A109-AA Rear Axle Bearing Service kit, which consists of new axles, bearings, seals and 75w-140 gear oil.

    I was just quoted $1100 + tax to have this taken care of at a stealership, seems pretty steep to me. Has anybody ever had this work done without paying that much (meaning for free or just a deductible) out of pocket?
    2003 300A #5377 130,XXX Miles

    Drilled and slotted rotors from Ebay
    JLT
    Stainless Works Long Tube Headers and 3" catback.
    Mo's Tune


  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by License2Bill View Post
    I noticed a blown axle seal on the passenger side of my 2003 300A (build date 10-4-02) the other day and haven't driven it since. Prior to this, I had been hearing a noise that varied in frequency as the speed of the vehicle changed.

    I used the search function and was able to find the TSB number 03-05-05, but that apparently only applies to vehicles under 36,000 and something about a Ford recall 04S16, which states bad bearings and improper lubrication could lead to axle failure in Crown Vics and Town Cars. Dealers were instructed to install p/n 3W1Z-4A109-AA Rear Axle Bearing Service kit, which consists of new axles, bearings, seals and 75w-140 gear oil.

    I was just quoted $1100 + tax to have this taken care of at a stealership, seems pretty steep to me. Has anybody ever had this work done without paying that much (meaning for free or just a deductible) out of pocket?
    Can probably find a local shop to do it for less. Get recommendations from friends, relatives, etc., also check with the local mustang clubs in your area for recommendations.
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  3. #3
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    It's not that hard to do yourself. The whole job shouldn't take more than a couple hours. The parts are the expensive stuff, but the axle shafts shouldn't be more then $300 for the pair, and the bearings, seals, and oil doesn't add up to more than another $100. So, $400 in parts, and assume a minimum job rate of 3 hours. Even at $100/hr, that's another $300. $700-$800 for the whole job would be reasonable.

    I'm guessing you're getting ripped off on the axle shafts. I'll bet Ford wants a king's ransom for those.
    2003 MM 300A
    1996 Jeep Cherokee Country with stuff
    1998 Toyota Corolla LE Touring

  4. #4
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    I've tried doing axle seals and bearings on my Crown Vic, didn't seat the bearing correctly, they came apart in the housing and actually wore the end of the tube into a tear drop shape. That was a $2500 fix to get a new rear end installed.

    I forgot to add, the $1100 was with a diff clutch repack as well. Still seems high to me.
    2003 300A #5377 130,XXX Miles

    Drilled and slotted rotors from Ebay
    JLT
    Stainless Works Long Tube Headers and 3" catback.
    Mo's Tune


  5. #5
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    The bearings and seals will be exactly the same on the MM as it is on the CV. I'll bet you know what you did wrong the first time and would be unlikely to make the same mistake again. But if you have the money and want peace of mind, the stealership is definitely the way to go.

    The LSD re-pack is a real PITA. That adds another couple hundred. The actual rebuild kit from Ford is only about $60, but it's a lot of work, and if done wrong will make a lot of noise and not work properly.
    2003 MM 300A
    1996 Jeep Cherokee Country with stuff
    1998 Toyota Corolla LE Touring

  6. #6
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    They're called "stealerships" for a reason.

    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    also check with the local mustang clubs in your area for recommendations.
    This.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteyg View Post
    But if you have the money and want peace of mind, the stealership is definitely the way to go.
    I'm having to borrow from my room mates (read parents) to pay for this repair. A friend of a friend has his own shop, but definitely seems a little on the shady side. I supply the parts, pay him cash only, no credit cards. $250 max though on the labor.
    2003 300A #5377 130,XXX Miles

    Drilled and slotted rotors from Ebay
    JLT
    Stainless Works Long Tube Headers and 3" catback.
    Mo's Tune


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by License2Bill View Post
    A friend of a friend has his own shop, but definitely seems a little on the shady side. I supply the parts, pay him cash only, no credit cards. $250 max though on the labor.
    A rear end is not the place to have some yokel who does not know what they're doing messing around. No offense to your shady friend.

    The rear ends on these cars only last around 100K before needing new axles, clutches, seals. Heck, call it a complete rebuild as you may as well change the carrier bearings while you're in there.

    Car maintenance co$t$, and you just came due for a major one. Good luck. The best thing you can do is to find a shop that specializes in rear end work and get it fixed right. Or do it yourself. But you have to do it right . . .
    Lifespeed

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  9. #9
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    Insane price. It pays to know how to do these things. Lean and save yourself some big bucks

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    Buy the kit and do it yourself. Its super easy doing rear end work.

    My 03' **** the bed with its axles too. Happened around 45k. They were grooved BAD.

    Matt H.
    (sold)2004' SB, 268rwhp/295tq
    1990 Mustang GT, Dart 363, Si-trim, T56, Holley Terminator X. 622rwhp/527tq
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vortech347 View Post
    Buy the kit and do it yourself. Its super easy doing rear end work.
    Let's not over-simplify. OP tried this once before and failed. Yes, the axles by themselves are straightforward enough. But very few axle assemblies need axles only once they have been run long enough to see this failure.

    Typically limited slip clutches (or just replace the entire carrier), carrier and pinion bearings and seal, and complete tear down to clean out all the metal shavings are required. Proper re-assembly requires setting the contact pattern, pinion depth and backlash.

    While it is possible for the average person to do this using care and access to the proper tools and parts, it is not trivial. Any errors will result in noise and rapid wear.
    Lifespeed

    2004 Silver Birch Marauder 130K miles
    Wilwood Aero6 F, NMDP R brakes, Penske 7500DA shocks, Hypercoil 600lbs F and Grand Marquis R air springs, Addco tubular sway bars, Metco control & Watts, 31 sp axles, Stainless Works cat-back exhaust, Lidio tune, American Racing AR883 9.3" 50mm F 10" 59mm R 20" wheels, Pirelli P-Zero 265/35-20, 275/40-20 tires

    Coming soon: Livernois 5.0L stroker, ADTR/Vortech V2 intercooled SC, Silverfox trans and Circle D converter

  13. #13
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    You don't have to "set" anything up. Its like lego's. I guess I've just done it to many times on Ford rear ends and its like changing shirts to me. LOL

    Matt H.
    (sold)2004' SB, 268rwhp/295tq
    1990 Mustang GT, Dart 363, Si-trim, T56, Holley Terminator X. 622rwhp/527tq
    2003 SVT Cobra, Posi Port 497rwhp/481tq. SCT Pro Racer Pack.
    2017 F-150, 5.0
    2013 SHO DIB Performance Pack

  14. #14
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    I'm only guessing that it needs a clutch repack at this point. The last time I did a burnout, it resulted in a one wheel peel, which to me seems to mean burnt diff clutches.

    Could I buy p/n 3W1Z-4A109-AA Rear Axle Bearing Service kit, have it installed and leave the clutches alone until I can afford to have them done?
    2003 300A #5377 130,XXX Miles

    Drilled and slotted rotors from Ebay
    JLT
    Stainless Works Long Tube Headers and 3" catback.
    Mo's Tune


  15. #15
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    Blew an axle seal

    Is the axle seal only native to CT? Cause out here we have Harbor seals and fur seals but I've never heard of a axle seal.. Lol

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