Lower Control Arms

[MENINBLK]

Hey All....

I was told a little while ago that my lower ball joints are beginning to wear.
At 150k miles, I was surprised that they are BEGINNING to wear.

So I was thinking of replacing both Front Lower Control Arms so I have new bushings,
as well as the joints and replace the shocks at the same time.
I'm going to get OEM shocks through FordPartsOnline and I see that Rock Auto
has an assortment of Lower Control Arms.

What do you suggest for the arms ?
Is the IMPROVED design really necessary ? Is it worth the extra cost ?
Are these replacements going to last as long as the originals ?

[lifespeed]

BEGINNING to wear, LOL. Yes, replacing the whole arm is a good way to go. If you have the press and die setup to change bushings and ball joints on the original arms you could conceivably save a few dollars, but if you're paying for labor just buy the arms. I used the aluminum arms from Ford.

At this point you should do the whole front end including upper arms, tie rods, springs and shocks. The results are very nice. Probably should include the SPC camber adjustment bolts in case you want to lower the front a bit and still maintain -0.5 degrees camber.

[MOTOWN]

There is no need whatsoever to replace the "entire" control arm, just press in new MOOG ball joints, if it aint broke why fix it?

[lifespeed]

Yes, replacing the whole arm is a good way to go. If you have the press and die setup to change bushings and ball joints on the original arms you could conceivably save a few dollars, but if you're paying for labor just buy the arms.

There is no need whatsoever to replace the "entire" control arm, just press in new MOOG ball joints, if it aint broke why fix it?

I think that is what I said, but did not leave out the bushings. It can be done either way, depending on what you pay for labor for the press work it may or may not make sense.

[MOTOWN]

I think that is what I said, but did not leave out the bushings. It can be done either way, depending on what you pay for labor for the press work it may or may not make sense.

It doesnt make sense to replace the bushings if they arent bad, throwing new parts at a car that may not need them is senseless!

[lifespeed]

It doesnt make sense to replace the bushings if they arent bad, throwing new parts at a car that may not need them is senseless!

I was told a little while ago that my lower ball joints are beginning to wear.
At 150k miles, I was surprised that they are BEGINNING to wear.

At 150K the bushings (and every other original front end component) is worn. Periodic Maintenance, man. This stuff doesn't last forever.

Periodic Maintenance: Significant activities carried out regularly (according to predetermined schedule) to maintain the condition or operational status of a building, equipment, machine, plant, or system. Also called time based maintenance.

[MOTOWN]

At 150K the bushings (and every other original front end component) is worn. Periodic Maintenance, man. This stuff doesn't last forever.

Periodic Maintenance: Significant activities carried out regularly (according to predetermined schedule) to maintain the condition or operational status of a building, equipment, machine, plant, or system. Also called time based maintenance.

High miles doesn't always equal worn parts, if I follow your logic the whole car should be replaced at 150k! My lower control arm bushings are at 107k and are fine.

[Logizyme]

Chill with the arguement.

If you just want ball joints, just do ball joints, but as someone who has both replaced the entire arm, and replaced just bushing and BJs, if your doing all three, its worth the arm. The forward bushing is a ***** to get in and out, even with a hydraulic press. The aftermarket forward bushings available are crap, the rear bushings are either crap or expensive. Wether you do it yourself or pay some one else to, if your going for all three its worth the arm.

I'm not going to tell you if you need/should have bushings replaced, its your car do what you want.

I will say, avoid the cheap aftermarket arms, like moog r-series, which are stamped steel like later panthers, make sure you get the aluminum arm, don't worry if its "improved" or not.

I would say generally expect 80% life expectancy from quality aftermarket, including OEM, as the OE. 50% for cheap aftermarket.

I would also say have the uppers done too, specification for BJ play in uppers is about 4x tighter than lowers, and their often overlooked.

[MENINBLK]

What I'm looking for is some sound advice from experience.
This site has always been a very good source of advice
and friendship over the last 10 years.

My Marauder has seen at least 75% of highway miles
over the course of the 150K miles it has.
Every wheel alignment I have had done has held tight
with the front tires wearing pretty evenly across
using Carfixer's specs.
No one has ever complained about not being able to set the alignment.

My last service, which was about 5,000 miles ago,
the mechanic showed me where the ball joints were beginning to wear.

Now I know that some people prefer to do the whole arm complete.
An arm swap should be the best bang for anyone's money.
With the salty roads in New York during the winter, I agree that
replacing the entire arm at 150K is the way to go.
If FORD's arms are the best choice, I just want to make sure my money
is buying the best choice, and that is the advice I am looking for here.

Rock Auto has sales from time to time and sometimes offers discounts.
If I can get Motorcraft arms from them at a discount, wouldn't that be great ?
Otherwise I have to check with our resident Dealer to see what his price is.

We all have an opinion of what is good for each of our Marauders.
My Marauder has been up and down the east coast and out to Texas
to see Wes and back to NY.
The ride has been a blast and I'd like to keep it that way.
My mechanic even wants to buy my Marauder when I'm done with it.

So, if I can do an arm swap with new shocks and springs at the next service
I just want to choose the best that I can that makes sense.


Thanks for everyone's support !!!

[Logizyme]

Kyb shocks are the best OE fit replacement shocks. Go ask that question on crownvic.net and you will hear the same thing. KYB rock, and at 150k on your OE's your really going to enjoy the improvement.

Motorcraft will be the best control arms, but will be very expensive. Best bang for your buck will be a quality aftermarket like moog.

[cruzer]

I'm in the same boat ---- 158,000 and replaced uppers and shocks at 120,000---rear bearing has split and looks like metal to metal soon. Just talked to Rock Auto. they have an aftermarket arm and ball joint kit for about $ 150 compared to Ford $ 300 +- They have a Mecotec complete assy that is "Improved" Has anyone seen these--are they aluminum or steel--do they include the rear bearing -- etc my shop has the car in for damage repair---found an OEM tail light----and I figure we will get this done while someone else is paying for the rental car. I still do some road racing and I don't want some cheap parts up front. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks , Maury

[Pat]

I will just say this, there are different brands and prices for the upper and lower control arms. I went with what the shop said was the best and didn't shop around. If you can, shop then buy. Any number of chassis shops can install them, don't know how one can tell if they are good are not, volume of work I guess.
Labor rate was $90.00 per hour, 6 hours. Parts cost for all four control arms (includes ball joints) was $1880.00. Moog was the brand.

Regards,

[MOTOWN]

Moog is the only way to roll!

[chief455]

Moog is the only way to roll!

Are these the correct part numbers for MOOG?
RK80391
RK80392

[MOTOWN]

Are these the correct part numbers for MOOG?
RK80391
RK80392

Yes sir! per Rock auto those are MOOG left, and right lower control arms.