changed my pulleys

[lifespeed]

For various reasons I have been changing my pulleys piecemeal over the last few months. First I changed the tensioner and smooth idler. The engine got quieter and smoother. Then I replaced the alternator with a high output Mechman unit with a solid pulley (although a new INA German clutched pulley will arrive tomorrow as I don't like the belt chirp). Clattering at startup was greatly reduced by replacing the worn alt and pulley.

Lastly, I realized I had missed the grooved idler pulley and replaced it too. The last bit of rattling that would occasionally manifest as the engine ran through the RPM range was eliminated. Quieter at startup too, although I can't claim to have eliminated a bit of timing chain rattle when it fires up after sitting for two days. That is a total of 4 pulleys!

If you're one of those people who does not believe in replacing parts before they self-destruct as you drive down the road, stop reading now. But if you prefer periodic maintenance and avoiding the surprises and headaches failures cause, I highly recommend replacing all your pulleys including the alternator clutched pulley.

The rattling sounds were driving me nuts trying to track down and resolve what sounded like a potentially serious engine problem. Noises like that could indicate timing or valvetrain issues. It is really not cool to have mysterious noises coming from the engine bay.

Lastly, as Justbob has pointed out, the idlers use a standard bearing if you really want to save some dough and press a new bearing into the existing grooved and smooth idlers. Tensioner and alternator you need a new unit.

[Prospect62]

For various reasons I have been changing my pulleys piecemeal over the last few months. First I changed the tensioner and smooth idler. The engine got quieter and smoother. Then I replaced the alternator with a high output Mechman unit with a solid pulley (although a new INA German clutched pulley will arrive tomorrow as I don't like the belt chirp). Clattering at startup was greatly reduced by replacing the worn alt and pulley.

Lastly, I realized I had missed the grooved idler pulley and replaced it too. The last bit of rattling that would occasionally manifest as the engine ran through the RPM range was eliminated. Quieter at startup too, although I can't claim to have eliminated a bit of timing chain rattle when it fires up after sitting for two days. That is a total of 4 pulleys!

If you're one of those people who does not believe in replacing parts before they self-destruct as you drive down the road, stop reading now. But if you prefer periodic maintenance and avoiding the surprises and headaches failures cause, I highly recommend replacing all your pulleys including the alternator clutched pulley.

The rattling sounds were driving me nuts trying to track down and resolve what sounded like a potentially serious engine problem. Noises like that could indicate timing or valvetrain issues. It is really not cool to have mysterious noises coming from the engine bay.

Lastly, as Justbob has pointed out, the idlers use a standard bearing if you really want to save some dough and press a new bearing into the existing grooved and smooth idlers. Tensioner and alternator you need a new unit.

Can anyone please supply the proper part numbers for the two idler pullies? I’ve done some research and it seems the ones that Rock Auto has listed aren’t the right ones.