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Thread: Battery Cable Change, Looks like fun!

  1. #1
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    Battery Cable Change, Looks like fun!

    I have an issue with my 2004 SB. One of the previous owners cut the positive battery cable off and used one of those cheap a$$ clamp on terminal ends. The proper Marauder battery cable part number 3W7Z-14300-CA is no longer available and nowhere to be found. I reasoned that a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis cable should be similar (part number 3W7Z-14300-AA). I ordered one from Tasca Ford and received it today. The cable looks identical except a couple of the mounting tabs are not in the exact same place. The negative cable is included as part of this cable assembly.

    I crawled around under the Marauder today to see where the cable attached to the starter and my replacement cable has the same connections. I am guessing that these cables may be the same other than the locating tabs that fit onto the cam cover bolt threads. I will be an easy fix to move them. My problem is that I am not sure what is involved in removing the part of the cable that comes up behind the engine from the starter and I don't want to cut the cable to remove it as I am not 100% sure the new cable is exactly the same length.

    Any help or advice would be appreciated. I am currently not having problems with the existing cable, but want to change it as it is a problem waiting to happen. I may wait till spring to tackle this as today is the only good warm weather day left and I don't want to get it tore apart and have to finish when it is cold outside.

    Pictures to follow.
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    Bob
    Last edited by Fastbob; 11-29-2014 at 11:08 AM.
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  2. #2
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    I bought the last available one in the country 3 years ago because my trilogy's harness was screwed up beyond repair.

    Its not that hard to change, I did it outside in 30 degree weather in about an hour.
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (Sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (Sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox

  3. #3
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    I should have read the whole post.

    I'm sure I don't have to say it, but disconnect the battery terminals first, Then disconnect the starter and then the bracket on the back of the head.

    If its a nice day you might want let the harness lay in the sun for a while so make it more pliable. It's really a straight forward job and I have heard the CV/ MGM harnesses are the same as the MM except for the cam cover clips.
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (Sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (Sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
    I should have read the whole post.

    I'm sure I don't have to say it, but disconnect the battery terminals first, Then disconnect the starter and then the bracket on the back of the head.

    If its a nice day you might want let the harness lay in the sun for a while so make it more pliable. It's really a straight forward job and I have heard the CV/ MGM harnesses are the same as the MM except for the cam cover clips.
    Thanks I was really hoping someone would reinforce my guess that the wiring part of the cables is the same on the CV/GM as the MM. Uhhh, disconnect the battery cables?? Well I suppose there are people dumb enough to try it with them connected, but I am not one of them.

    Thanks

    Bob
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  5. #5
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    Removing the wiper cowl isn't necessary but yields a TON of space behind the engine and I almost consider it "step 1" to most repairs.


    Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

    Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
    "Since 2004"
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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Removing the wiper cowl isn't necessary but yields a TON of space behind the engine and I almost consider it "step 1" to most repairs.


    Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

    Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
    "Since 2004"
    Also by doing so it provides a good opportunity to clean out all the gunk that settles in there.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbob View Post
    Thanks I was really hoping someone would reinforce my guess that the wiring part of the cables is the same on the CV/GM as the MM. Uhhh, disconnect the battery cables?? Well I suppose there are people dumb enough to try it with them connected, but I am not one of them.

    Thanks

    Bob
    I only said about disconnecting the battery because sometimes people get excited to work on their marauder and forget this step..... I've been guilty before
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (Sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (Sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox

  8. #8
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    Yes the GMQ cable is the same exept the valve cover mounts.
    I eat apples until my stomach feels much more full than its normal.

  9. #9
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    I am thinking I can reach the retaining bolt on the back of the head from below, but not sure. I will wait till next weekend and if the weather cooperates I'll set up my Maxx Jaxx lift and tear into it.
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  10. #10
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    I've changed 6 battery cable sets on Marauders over the years. The cable is the exact same as the MGM one. Just carefully release the plastic tabs. They are basically zip ties around the cable so I use a small flat balde screw driver to release the lock tab and remove the plastic reatainers. The one up by the alternator is just taped to the harness.

    The nut on the back of the right head is 13mm wide flat nut. I found a flat ratchet works great to get to it from the underside of the car. You have to do it by feel.

    Pre bend the new cable assembly to roughly match the old one for ease of installation. The only area to watch out for is where the cables run under the right head along the block right near the starter. Make sure the cable does not touch or is near the exhaust manifold. (By the way, this is the area almost all the MGM/Marauder engine fires start at.) It's tucked up next to engine pretty close in this area.

    Use care when removing the 10MM nut on the end of the power junction box (one end of the red cable attaches here on the engine side of the big black power jucntion box). It's a locknut and it's easy to break the plastic. I hold the end of the old cable with a pair of pliers and then loosen the nut after spraying some penatrating oil on the nut.

    The wires only connect one way, so no chance of making a wrong connection.
    His: Blue w/Light Flint Born 02/05/03 (Wednesday)
    6674 of 7838, Color sequence 102 of 327

    1 of 111 Without Heated Seats
    6 CD Changer in Trunk
    Locking Lugs
    Trunk Organizer
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    Nephews: Blue w/Light Flint
    Born 02/05/03
    6673 of 7838, 101 of 327 Blues 1 of 111 Without Heated Seats
    Cars purchased 7 years apart, but are only 20 VIN numbers apart. Sequential units on the assembly line.


    Hers: Black 300A w/Charcoal Born 06/25/02 (Tuesday)
    2011 of 7838
    .
    Locking Lugs
    Trunk Organizer
    Real Oil Press Guage w/MM Face
    Factory Alarm
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    Rear Bumper Inserts

    #4 (Pound Rescue Marauder) 2003 DBP/Light Flint
    120 of 328 DBP 1 of 217 with heated seats.
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    #5 2003 DBP/Light Flint
    136 of 327 Blues 1 of 111 W/O Heated Seats
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  11. #11
    Good reason to do the Big 3/4 upgrade and change the starter cables as well if they are iffy.

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
    13.630 @ 100.49 mph (11/21/10)

    2015 Ford Focus SE Sport FWD
    2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost AWD (377whp/423tq).
    2010 Ford Fusion Sport FWD
    1989.5 Ford Mustang 5.0 LXsport

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctrlraven View Post
    Good reason to do the Big 3/4 upgrade and change the starter cables as well if they are iffy.
    Okay, I give up...what is the Big 3/4 upgrade?
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by vegasmarauder View Post
    I've changed 6 battery cable sets on Marauders over the years. The cable is the exact same as the MGM one. Just carefully release the plastic tabs. They are basically zip ties around the cable so I use a small flat balde screw driver to release the lock tab and remove the plastic reatainers. The one up by the alternator is just taped to the harness.

    The nut on the back of the right head is 13mm wide flat nut. I found a flat ratchet works great to get to it from the underside of the car. You have to do it by feel.

    Pre bend the new cable assembly to roughly match the old one for ease of installation. The only area to watch out for is where the cables run under the right head along the block right near the starter. Make sure the cable does not touch or is near the exhaust manifold. (By the way, this is the area almost all the MGM/Marauder engine fires start at.) It's tucked up next to engine pretty close in this area.

    Use care when removing the 10MM nut on the end of the power junction box (one end of the red cable attaches here on the engine side of the big black power jucntion box). It's a locknut and it's easy to break the plastic. I hold the end of the old cable with a pair of pliers and then loosen the nut after spraying some penatrating oil on the nut.

    The wires only connect one way, so no chance of making a wrong connection.
    Pretty much the way I was thinking it would go. I did NOT know the cable nut at the power box was a locknut. Thanks for letting me know. Maybe do it this weekend.
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbob View Post
    Okay, I give up...what is the Big 3/4 upgrade?
    The Big 3 is a simple electrical upgrade for any vehicle to improve a better electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Your stock electrical system consists of 3, or more, wires hence the term “Big 3”. These are the main wires for your electrical charging system. The actual “upgrade” is we are adding a thicker gauge wire to the system.

    The 3 wires are:
    - Positive from battery to positive from alternator
    - Negative from battery to ground
    - Engine block to ground

    Also the Positive from the battery to the main relay/fuse block is another wire that is usually upgraded so really it's the Big 4. But the other 3 wires are the main ones that are focused on.

    Most who do it are car stereo guys who run big systems but it can be done on any vehicle. The stock positive battery/alternator wire is a 6 AWG wire, by increasing it's size to a 4 or even 1/0 AWG wire you decrease the resistance in the wire and power flows easier. Several or members on the site, I have all the stuff to do it but just haven't felt like doing it yet.

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
    13.630 @ 100.49 mph (11/21/10)

    2015 Ford Focus SE Sport FWD
    2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost AWD (377whp/423tq).
    2010 Ford Fusion Sport FWD
    1989.5 Ford Mustang 5.0 LXsport

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctrlraven View Post
    The Big 3 is a simple electrical upgrade for any vehicle to improve a better electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Your stock electrical system consists of 3, or more, wires hence the term “Big 3”. These are the main wires for your electrical charging system. The actual “upgrade” is we are adding a thicker gauge wire to the system.

    The 3 wires are:
    - Positive from battery to positive from alternator
    - Negative from battery to ground
    - Engine block to ground

    Also the Positive from the battery to the main relay/fuse block is another wire that is usually upgraded so really it's the Big 4. But the other 3 wires are the main ones that are focused on.

    Most who do it are car stereo guys who run big systems but it can be done on any vehicle. The stock positive battery/alternator wire is a 6 AWG wire, by increasing it's size to a 4 or even 1/0 AWG wire you decrease the resistance in the wire and power flows easier. Several or members on the site, I have all the stuff to do it but just haven't felt like doing it yet.
    Sounds like there is a bunch of crimping / soldering involved and the use of a car stereo type multi-connection battery cable end. I would rather have the factory made connections since I don't plan any powerful stereo ("sound system" for you young guys) upgrades. I do appreciate the info.

    Bob
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

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