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Thread: big 3 upgrade

  1. #1
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    big 3 upgrade

    So I know all you guys have herd of this and some of you have done this upgrade as well. Now I just had this done by a car audio shop. Everything looks good expect 2 things which I will be fixing myself. They only charged me 30 bucks for labor as i had all the supplys. I couod had done this myself but its to cold.

    So 1st thing is that he told me that no fuse is needed between the alternator and battery 0 gauge cable. He said why install it if from factory it does not come with one. I means, makes alittle sense but why is it really needed?

    2nd is where he did the engine block ground to negative post of battery. He installed it by the alternator bracket which i am not to happy about. Is that a real good engine block ground or is there better?


  2. #2
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    Factory ground is on the engine block. I would move it there.
    better to do a burn-out than fade away

  3. #3
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    And I just realized that that engine block is straight to the negative post and I belive its suppose to be to the engine chassiss.

  4. #4
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    So this is what he did,
    1-battery positive to alternator(good).
    2-battery negative to chassiss(good)
    3-engine block to negative of battery(wrong). I believe this is suppose to be engine block to chassiss?
    4-no fuse between positive battery and alternator(wrong). I believe there is suppose to be one there which I will install tomorrow.

    Do I sound correct?

  5. #5
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    The factory B+ from the alternator to the battery has two fusible links wired in parallel for circuit protection which is recommended to prevent potential overcharging and electrical fires.

    As far as negative upgrades go consider electrical flow. Many engine circuits will ground directly to the engine. The alternator grounds to the engine. The starter grounds to the engine. All of this electrical flow needs to make it back to the battery. The chassis also has many electrical systems grounding to the chassis. If you ground the engine to the chassis, all of that electrical flow will need to go through the chassis to B- terminal wire, in addition to the chassis grounds already using that circuit. By grounding directly from the engine block to the B- you skip using the chassis and have a better connection.

    Ideally I would run my primary and largest ground from the engine directly to the B-. In fact for maximum redundancy I would run one ground wire from the starter(like factory) and another from near the alternator to the B-, and finally another from the block to the frame/fender.

    Starter and alternator will use the greatest electrical load.
    I eat apples until my stomach feels much more full than its normal.

  6. #6
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    Your installer did just fine. If you dont like how he did it install your own stuff the next go around.
    Neil
    2003 Mercury Marauder - DBP/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - BLK/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - SB/LF
    2004 Mercury Marauder - DTR/LF
    1964 Mercury Marauder - BLK/BLK

  7. #7
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    Ok so I will add the fuse tomorrow between the alternator and battery+. I will find a better engine block ground and move it there. As per the starter, I left it alone. Left the stock positive and negative cables in place.

  8. #8
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    IF the fuse makes you feel better go ahead and install it. All it does is reduce current flow (which you are trying to improve). There is nothing wrong with grounding straight to the alternator case. I do this as well as the fender, and the engine block. HTH
    Neil
    2003 Mercury Marauder - DBP/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - BLK/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - SB/LF
    2004 Mercury Marauder - DTR/LF
    1964 Mercury Marauder - BLK/BLK

  9. #9
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    But my battery volt gauge drops more then before. So wheres the problem? The only thing that comes to mind is that ground. Its right over the alternator bracket. I mean, maybe sand it down a bit and give it try?

  10. #10
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    Add more grounds. Post to fender. Post to block. Post to alternator case. Yes, make sure they are clean and tight.
    Neil
    2003 Mercury Marauder - DBP/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - BLK/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - SB/LF
    2004 Mercury Marauder - DTR/LF
    1964 Mercury Marauder - BLK/BLK

  11. #11
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    So post to fender is good. Used the factory location for fender next to the battery. That is nice and tight. Now, I just noticed that a factory block to negative post was reused. Same stock wire. And then the negative post to the alternator bracket which needs to be sanded down.

  12. #12
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    So as of right now, I am running 3 grounds. But one factory cable is being reused which is the main block to the negative post.

  13. #13
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    I done the big 3 on about 6-7 cars and never put a fuse on the alternator to battery wire......

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwibbity View Post
    I done the big 3 on about 6-7 cars and never put a fuse on the alternator to battery wire......
    Agreed. Statistically it's completely unnecessary

  15. #15
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    So I should worry about my ground wires then.

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