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Thread: component speakers or coaxial?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbob View Post
    Actually an additional battery or larger power cables should fix that.
    An additional battery is going to require a bigger stronger alternator to charge two batteries!
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOTOWN View Post
    An additional battery is going to require a bigger stronger alternator to charge two batteries!
    Certainly you are correct, but just using a bigger alternator with one battery will not cure "brown outs" due to a large audio amplifier. Turning down the volume helps also.
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by slickster View Post
    I have one 400w amp powering 1 12 sub. every time the bass hits it pulsates lights! So with heavy amping you might need a bigger alternator. Just like horsepower the more you add the more stuff you need to add in order to handle it
    You shouldn't be taxing your system that much with just 400W.

    In a perfect world you should only be adding 27-33A extra on your system. (100% output & effeciency) Which at cruising speed shouldn't be an issue.

    With an eaton swap the Big 3 should be done before you add any extra electronics.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbob View Post
    Certainly you are correct, but just using a bigger alternator with one battery will not cure "brown outs" due to a large audio amplifier. Turning down the volume helps also.
    A high output alternator with a battery is better than a stock alt with two batteries

    Adding a second battery in his situation would actually make it worse
    Last edited by jwibbity; 10-20-2015 at 03:58 PM.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwibbity View Post
    A high output alternator with a battery is better than a stock alt with two batteries

    Adding a second battery in his situation would actually make it worse
    I would have to disagree with that, but hey we can agree to disagree.
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  6. #36
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    I found them infinity refs in Amazon years ago for $40 a set. Put them in the old car. Sound was slightly better than factory with the audiophile hu at high volume
    Last edited by slickster; 10-31-2015 at 09:46 PM.
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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbob View Post
    I would have to disagree with that, but hey we can agree to disagree.
    How?? When the car is running your alternator is what keeps your voltage at ~14V. The dimming occurs when your alternator can not keep up with the current demand from electrical system and the voltage drops to the resting voltage of the batteries (~12.6V)

    Adding a second battery won't do anything to stop the lights from dimming because it will still be the alternator that it be overwhelmed from the current draw.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by slickster View Post
    I have one 400w amp powering 1 12 sub. every time the bass hits it pulsates lights! So with heavy amping you might need a bigger alternator. Just like horsepower the more you add the more stuff you need to add in order to handle it
    Do you know if your power/ground wire is OFC (oxygen free copper) or CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire? Where is amp ground where connected to?
    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbob View Post
    Actually an additional battery or larger power cables should fix that.
    Help? Yes. Fix? No.
    Quote Originally Posted by MOTOWN View Post
    An additional battery is going to require a bigger stronger alternator to charge two batteries!
    Yep.
    Quote Originally Posted by jwibbity View Post
    You shouldn't be taxing your system that much with just 400W.

    In a perfect world you should only be adding 27-33A extra on your system. (100% output & effeciency) Which at cruising speed shouldn't be an issue.

    With an eaton swap the Big 3 should be done before you add any extra electronics.
    Big 3 is great for any vehicle, stock or modified. A 400 watt amp shouldn't be dimming the lights unless the power wire is garbage and/or the ground just isn't sufficient enough. I would relocate the ground to a better spot before doing anything else first.
    Last edited by ctrlraven; 10-21-2015 at 06:57 AM.

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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctrlraven View Post

    Big 3 is great for any vehicle, stock or modified. A 400 watt amp shouldn't be dimming the lights unless the power wire garbage and/or the ground just isn't sufficient enough. I would relocate the ground to a better spot before doing anything else first.
    I'm in the process of making a big 3 upgrade for a member. We'll see how it goes.
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  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davco View Post
    What size mid range did you put in the doors? I know it has 6x8/5x7 holes.
    6x8 in the doors
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    Was waiting for Jason to assist. His stereo can cure kidney stones. While he went deeper than most could ever hope--his outcome was the best I've ever heard.

    BTW Jason, still waiting (and saving) to install the least expensive unit you will install. Remember that we will need to do it twice
    Who is this Jason? I would love to see a high end install.
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  12. #42
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    Component all the way. The stock stereo powered the infinities I put in just fine, but once I did an aftermarket deck with more juice they really came alive.

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  13. #43
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    There is no deck on this planet that even compares to about 300 watts of good clean power from an amplifier to a decent set of components in the front doors. You won't even need rear speakers.
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  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8UWITH6 View Post
    There is no deck on this planet that even compares to about 300 watts of good clean power from an amplifier to a decent set of components in the front doors. You won't even need rear speakers.
    Until you have to sit in the back, lol

    Those big leather seats block alot of sound

  15. #45
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    Pick up the first piece of the puzzle today. Got me the JL Audio C-525 components for the front doors.
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