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Thread: FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

  1. #1
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    FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

    FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS


    PROBLEM: Air blows out of the defrost vents instead of where it should or may come out where it's supposed to until you accelerate, then the air comes out the defrost.
    Most likely the o-rings on the solenoids, inside the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC), need to be replaced. The cheap rubber hardens over time causing a vacuum leak. I’ve replaced some that are so brittle that they break into pieces when I remove them. You will probably see that all four o-rings are square, square doesn’t seal a round cylinder very good. They should be replaced with high quality silicone o-rings and a small amount of silicone dielectric grease. If you buy another EATC, even a new one, you will eventually need to replace the o-rings.

    Could also be a vacuum leak inside the car or under the hood.

    Could also be the electronics inside the EATC.

    NOTE: If you disconnect the vacuum connector from the EATC you might notice that there is one hose “missing”. It’s not supposed to be there. Looking at the nipples on the back of the EATC one has no opening.

    PROBLEM: Blower doesn’t work or only blows at one speed.
    Most likely it is the Blower Control Module (BCM). Tap the BCM (under the hood, behind the passenger side cam cover). If tapping the BCM makes the blower work correctly, the BCM needs to be replaced. Buying a new BCM (only buy a new one from FORD – aftermarket ones have a poor track record) will fix the problem but it will probably happen again due to the type of solder used. If tapping the BCM doesn’t make the blower come on then you probably need a new blower motor or the fan control / electronics inside the EATC can be bad.

    PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
    Run the EATC self test, if you get an "024" or "025" code the Blend Door Actuator is bad. A code of "888" means all is OK as far as the self test is concerned.
    The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.

    PROBLEM: No A/C
    The A/C system is a closed system. If it is blowing warm or hot air, most likely there is something wrong with the A/C system. If you have to add freon to get the system to work, you have a leak in the system and unless you are experienced and licensed to work on the A/C systems (in most states) you need to take it to a professional. One of the most common problems is the bottom of the receiver / dryer rusts out due to its construction and location. If it needs to be replaced insist on an aluminum replacement part.

    Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

    • The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
    • The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
    • The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
    • To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
    • If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
    • If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
    • To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
    • To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
    • Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
    • Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
    Last edited by fastblackmerc; 01-04-2021 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Changed one code "25" to "24"
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
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    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post

    PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
    Run the EATC self test, if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
    The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.
    Yep, that's what I'm going through right now. The knocking drives me nuts! Doesn't do it all the time. How many hours of labor you think?
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    What's the cause of the HVAC coming on AUTO at 60F without driver input? Only happens when it's below 65 degrees. Doesn't happen if the HVAC is already running in a different mode.
    '03 Marauder | '91 Country Squire | '18 Flex Ecoboost | '92 Shadow VT1100 | '15 Road King
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavySeabee View Post
    Yep, that's what I'm going through right now. The knocking drives me nuts! Doesn't do it all the time. How many hours of labor you think?
    It took me about two hours without removing the dash!
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

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    Good summary, thanks!

    My blower control module went bad a few years back, replaced it with a ford BCM, and it just happened again. I want to re-solder it so it lasts this time. I thought I remembered a post about how, or a post where someone was offering to do the fix. Can't find it though... anyone know?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weaver View Post
    Good summary, thanks!

    My blower control module went bad a few years back, replaced it with a ford BCM, and it just happened again. I want to re-solder it so it lasts this time. I thought I remembered a post about how, or a post where someone was offering to do the fix. Can't find it though... anyone know?
    "fastblackmerc"
    03' MM Black 300 A - (FOR SALE--)
    Build Date 6/25/02 - #1,987 of 7,839 for '03
    Vortech T- TRIM -Water to Air -
    12.45 at 109.6 MPH
    1.92 Sec .- 60 '
    Alt .SSHS 9 --11/7/09

    '06 CV P71 Street Pkg
    Interior Marauder Floor Shift
    All New Parts

    '12 F-150 KingRanch Off Rd Pkg.
    373 Gear EcoBoost- Does What's Asked

    In Memoriam....11-14-13
    He loved this site so MUCH! and the Members More!!

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    Thank you.

    I copy these tech infos, the ones that are not copyrighted, into a doc file for easy access.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weaver View Post
    Good summary, thanks!

    My blower control module went bad a few years back, replaced it with a ford BCM, and it just happened again. I want to re-solder it so it lasts this time. I thought I remembered a post about how, or a post where someone was offering to do the fix. Can't find it though... anyone know?
    Quote Originally Posted by Marauderman View Post
    "fastblackmerc"
    Marauderman is correct.

    That would be me that repairs them.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavySeabee View Post
    Yep, that's what I'm going through right now. The knocking drives me nuts! Doesn't do it all the time. How many hours of labor you think?
    Takes me just a little bit over 3 hours. That's the right way... not breaking anything or leaving out any screws, etc.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_d_a_m View Post
    What's the cause of the HVAC coming on AUTO at 60F without driver input? Only happens when it's below 65 degrees. Doesn't happen if the HVAC is already running in a different mode.
    Try running the EATC self test. Post any codes you get.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  12. #12
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    Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

    How do you do the EATC self test you ask????

    Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test Procedure

    Interior of the vehicle must be between 40 - 90 degrees while running the test. If not you may get false in-car temperature sensor errors.

    • The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
    • The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
    • The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
    • To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
    • If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
    • If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
    • To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
    • To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
    • Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
    • Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
    Last edited by fastblackmerc; 04-29-2016 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Added temp info.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  13. #13
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    It's been doing it for two years now; no codes the last time I ran it (2014).
    '03 Marauder | '91 Country Squire | '18 Flex Ecoboost | '92 Shadow VT1100 | '15 Road King
    former Panthers: '02 MGM, '04 MGM, '04 MGM v2.0, '04 MM, '07 P71 w/5-speed, '04 CVLX, '03 SAP P71, '10 P7B
    CLICK HERE and have your Marauder's COA info added to the database!!! | 2003 list ||| 2004 list
    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    Reinhart's tuning skills were comparable to an ape slapping the keyboard in microsoft excel.

  14. #14
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    PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
    Run the EATC self test, if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
    The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.
    ______________________________ _________________________

    my brothers 05 GM non eletronic has the hot/cold can't decide blues.
    now, since it is winter, even when it flips to 'warm' he gets no heat.
    A month ago, with cold A/C blowing, you could hear it 'bonk' to warm, and hot azz air would pump out.
    Shut it off, turn it on and the cold might come back...then 'bonk' back to warm.
    thinking his door is just hung up in the middle now?

    start removing the dash, pulling the passenger side out enough to get at this?
    can you link to a pic thread?

    can't stand the though of having a dealer do it...
    thanks
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  15. #15
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    Usually shops will remove the whole dash while some people just semi-remove it and by this I mean they only unbolt the needed stuff just enough to bend the dash forward enough to remove the BDA.
    I managed to remove it without removing the dash at all.
    What I did was the following. ..
    Removed the trim inserts, cluster bezel, radio, airbag and one air conduct.




    While the BDAwas still in place is removed the cover and the guts of it in order to gain more space to work.



    Removed the first two bolt and then I pushed the BDA further inside to het space to remove the third bolt.


    Then I put in the new motorcraft in place, putting the bolts back requires a lot of patience. Then the secret to bolt it back in is using the right tools, a magnet bar!
    While you are holding the tiny wrench with your right hand from the airbag side, with your left hand use a magnet bar to guide the wrench from the radio side.


    Something like this...


    Hope this was useful, also I want encourage you to try it this way amd if does work for you have plan B, removing the dash.
    I now charge $100 to replace a BDA in the Chicago area!
    (I think I should have post a write up)
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

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