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Thread: FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

  1. #16
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    GoldPanther = WINNING!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by chief455 View Post
    GoldPanther = WINNING!!

    LOL
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  3. #18
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    Had no Heat at all... after summer

    Did EATC self test; it freed up... THANK YOU for the post...

    I am glad I didn't have to remove dash or even try to get my arms in through radio / airbag opening's...

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacammer View Post
    Had no Heat at all... after summer

    Did EATC self test; it freed up... THANK YOU for the post...

    I am glad I didn't have to remove dash or even try to get my arms in through radio / airbag opening's...
    That will work a few times...
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    How do you do the EATC self test you ask????

    Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

    • The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
    • The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
    • The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
    • To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
    • If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
    • If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
    • To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
    • To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
    • Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
    • Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
    Do you happen to have a written sequence of operations for the automatic mode?
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Marauderman is correct.

    That would be me that repairs them.
    Cool, PM sent on the 6th.
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  7. #22
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    This thread should be sticky! Thanks for the useful information!
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weaver View Post
    Cool, PM sent on the 6th.
    I don't have any repaired ones available.
    Last edited by fastblackmerc; 11-22-2015 at 07:20 PM.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeeDamn View Post
    This thread should be sticky!
    Agreed, and done!
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    I don't have any repaired ones available.
    Can I send you my already removed bad one? Or two if I feel like pulling the current one out?
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS


    PROBLEM: Air blows out of the defrost vents instead of where it should.
    Most likely the o-rings on the solenoids, inside the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC), need to be replaced. The cheap rubber hardens over time causing a vacuum leak. I’ve replaced some that are so brittle that they break into pieces when I remove them. You will probably see that all four o-rings are square, square doesn’t seal a round cylinder very good. They should be replaced with high quality silicone o-rings and a small amount of silicone dielectric grease. If you buy another EATC, even a new one, you will eventually need to replace the o-rings.

    Could also be a vacuum leak inside the car or under the hooD
    Could also be the electronics inside the EATC.

    NOTE: If you disconnect the vacuum connector from the EATC you might notice that there is one hose “missing”. It’s not supposed to be there. Looking at the nipples on the back of the EATC one has no opening.

    PROBLEM: Blower doesn’t work or only blows at one speed.
    Most likely it is the Blower Control Module (BCM). Tap the BCM (under the hood, behind the passenger side cam cover). If tapping the BCM makes the blower work correctly, the BCM needs to be replaced. Buying a new BCM (only buy a new one from FORD – aftermarket ones have a poor track record) will fix the problem but it will probably happen again due to the type of solder used. If tapping the BCM doesn’t make the blower come on then you probably need a new blower motor or the fan control / electronics inside the EATC can be bad.

    PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
    Run the EATC self test, if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
    The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.

    PROBLEM: No A/C
    The A/C system is a closed system. If it is blowing warm or hot air, most likely there is something wrong with the A/C system. If you have to add freon to get the system to work, you have a leak in the system and unless you are experienced and licensed to work on the A/C systems (in most states) you need to take it to a professional. One of the most common problems is the bottom of the receiver / dryer rusts out due to its construction and location. If it needs to be replaced insist on an aluminum replacement part.

    Did you mean to say code 025 twice?

    if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.

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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike M View Post
    Did you mean to say code 025 twice?

    if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
    It should be codes 024 or 025.

    Good catch!
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  13. #28
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    Great thread, I was just pondering such questions.

    My 04 Marauder has an odd Blower motor problem. I had experienced blower control module (BCM) failure on my old 94 and 96 Town cars, in that case there was no fan unless you manually selected full speed on the EATC. But with the Marauder it starts out fine, but then the fan ends up at full speed and one can't override it except for shutting off the Climate control. It does seem to be sensing the proper temp etc, as it will pulse back and forth a few times, and will start out at a proper speed.

    In the old Town cars I was able to fix the BCM by soldering the main transistor connections on the circuit board



    Does this trick work with the newer style BCM with the much larger heat sink?

    Secondly has anyone tried to interchange a EATC from another panther?

    Both my 04's had the Oring failure, and the 04 LX was pre-failed when I bought it. The MM failed and the LX was temporarily out of service so I swapped in the LX EATC, but it did not work right. A few functions did not work, put it back in the LX and it worked fine. So I used the spare Orings and fixed the MM EATC and all was fine, of course it took much less time to do the job the second time.
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  14. #29
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    What if it goes straight to that 888 with all the functions around it

  15. #30
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    Whats the problem when you select vents or floor or which ever and the heat comes out from all of it and not the selected one?

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