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Thread: FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Greensboro
    Age
    30
    Posts
    12
    The heat works and the ac works from the floor and the vent but not the middle vent

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Somewhere in the N.C. Triangle
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amg07111 View Post
    What if it goes straight to that 888 with all the functions around it
    888 means all is OK.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Somewhere in the N.C. Triangle
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    Quote Originally Posted by crownvic05 View Post
    Whats the problem when you select vents or floor or which ever and the heat comes out from all of it and not the selected one?
    It could be the EATC unit, pinched vacuum line, stuck or bad door, disconnected vacuum line or bad vacuum motor.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Amherst, OH/Lexington KY
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,561
    We've had to change the accumulator on two 04's, bottom rusted. Easy to change, luckily my brother-in-law has the equipment to recharge AC.
    MARAUDERS get me ****!

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    3,737
    And I have been flamed on about this in the past, and may get flamed again now. Just tested EATC got 888 code (everything ok). Had no air at all. Changed BCM, had AC for 3 min. Changed $14.00 relay... AC fixed.

    I am a big believer in changing out 15 year old Relays first (I was out and ordered more on line.). On items like brake safety start (lock out) or AC, things that get used a lot, changing out Relays to new ones only makes sense! And saves dollars and time.


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,338
    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    And I have been flamed on about this in the past, and may get flamed again now. Just tested EATC got 888 code (everything ok). Had no air at all. Changed BCM, had AC for 3 min. Changed $14.00 relay... AC fixed.

    I am a big believer in changing out 15 year old Relays first (I was out and ordered more on line.). On items like brake safety start (lock out) or AC, things that get used a lot, changing out Relays to new ones only makes sense! And saves dollars and time.
    No flaming that, it's common sense. Especially how cheap & weak modern car relays are. 1st time I had a problem with a relay, I replaced all. Cheap prevention of being stranded somewhere. This has the added side benefit of having a fistful of known good relays for future troubleshooting and a spare in the glovebox.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
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    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
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    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
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    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    6

    EATC Issues....

    Hello, I have a 2004 Mercury Marauder which I bought new. Paul Casey, RIP, talked me into buying it back when life was good. After driving his, like I stole it, I was sold. I bought mine over the phone, sight unseen. I'm in north Alabama.

    I am another on the list for EATC/air conditioning issues. Four years ago I did the O-ring fix and all was wonderful again after that...now I am bewildered...I have done the O-ring fix again...as the air was blowing out the defrost and the floor. However, that did not fix my problem. I ran the self diagnostics and had no fault codes.

    I checked the system for vacuum leaks, there are none. I have 20 inches of vacuum at the EATC.

    I am confused and confounded. I can operate the electronics, such as the AC compressor, the blend door (Changing from hot to cold or cold to hot, the air is cold. The heat is hot.), the fan speed, via the EATC and MANUALLY jump the vacuum hose to operate the different vacuum actuators and they all work fine when I do this MANUALLY. I can make the AC blow out the DASH vents MANUALLY like they should do AUTOMATICALLY.

    I have now replaced the complete EATC TWICE, did not phase the problem of making the air blow out the dash vents (Which it still doesn't) ... still blowing out the defrost and floor. I have replace the blower motor controller out under the hood mounted in the blower box ... just because I could...and then replaced that part again...because the first replacement made the blower quit working. I have taken the airbag out of the dash to check the blend door...it works fine...smooth and quiet...not gonna go there since I don't have to... After taking out the air bag and vent to the passenger far side, the EATC gave me a fault code of 025 and 052. I did not get any codes till I took out the air bag and vent... I figured I upset the system with the effort it took to get the vent plastic extension out, which was a lot. I reran the EATC self diagnostics and cleared the codes. Blend door still works smoothly and quietly. Codes did not, have not reappeared. I took out the inside temperature sensor and disconnected the large white hose and blew it out...to clear any possible obstructions in the ac blower box. I reinstalled the temp sensor, still no cure. I took the apron which covers the windshield wiper mechanism and cleaned out all the leaves and silt, because I could...made no difference. Cleaned out the blower box from the access on the firewall too. Made no difference.

    What am I missing? Anyone got the solution? Any more parts I can replace?

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    6

    EATC Issues....

    Got it fixed today...replaced the vacuum solenoids in the second EATC and life is good again. I don't know how that did it...but it did.

    After the fix I amazed myself by how quick the dash all went together...sure seams like it took days to get it apart. Anyway, Life is good again.

    Thanks to all who offered information.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Money View Post
    Got it fixed today...replaced the vacuum solenoids in the second EATC and life is good again. I don't know how that did it...but it did.

    After the fix I amazed myself by how quick the dash all went together...sure seams like it took days to get it apart. Anyway, Life is good again.

    Thanks to all who offered information.
    Take the "bad" solenoids apart and see what you messed up.

    I'm guessing a torn o-ring or piston installed upside down.
    Last edited by fastblackmerc; 09-22-2017 at 05:10 AM.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Blue Springs Missouri
    Age
    48
    Posts
    111
    What if you start your car to warm it up in the morning and the eat is set to auto but when you cine back out 20 minutes later it's stone cold in your car and the climate control had done nothing. Seems there has to be an AAT sensor inside the eatc to determine the temp inside and too tell it what to do. Maybe it's bad? Anyone experienced this?

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Mount Holly Springs, PA
    Posts
    30
    Does it get warm after you drive it around? If so you might need to burp the baby: coolant system burp
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...3&share_type=t


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #42
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    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakshukvw View Post
    What if you start your car to warm it up in the morning and the eat is set to auto but when you cine back out 20 minutes later it's stone cold in your car and the climate control had done nothing. Seems there has to be an AAT sensor inside the eatc to determine the temp inside and too tell it what to do. Maybe it's bad? Anyone experienced this?
    Run the EATC self-test.

    There are a couple of sensors, one on the top of the dash & one next to the EATC.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Atlanta
    Age
    58
    Posts
    86

    My AC Trouble, Help Needed

    First off I just had the compressor the condenser the coolant O rings and one other item (expansion valve maybe). My compressor blew a hole out of it! The worse thing is the clutch squealed like crazy so I bypassed it (that was a trick using an 81.5" belt worked perfect!) My friend who is a mechanic at Ford dealer did the work and this is what I am experiencing:


    1. For the first 30-50 minutes or miles the AC blows very cold out mostly of the dash (yes when on the throttle it blows out of the defrost vents). Russ fixed my EATC with silicone o rings last year at Carlisle but it never worked just right.


    2. Then after the initial time the AC keeps blowing but the air doesn't come out of anywhere! I hear it blowing like crazy, the car drips water from the evaporator like normal but the temp in the car goes up. Driving through Atlanta today in HEAVY traffic at 12:30 PM was about 110 degrees in the car with the window open!


    3. When the car sits for more than an hour it begins to work again for the same 30-50 minutes or miles. My 1992 Crown Vic with the old style R12 AC system with 160K miles still blows cold all of the time.


    4. Now my EATC: I do the self test and it does work (it does stop when I press Floor and Off and then within 2 secs press Automatic and all it does is go back to Automatic (but no AC out of anywhere just blowing like crazy behind the dash).


    Your ideas and suggestions ar5e greatly appreciated. Wish I had a Silver Birch Marauder after this near 2,000 mile trip to PA! Thanks for the help.


    Dave

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Warsaw, Indiana
    Posts
    321
    The AC coil inside the car is freezing solid. I tried a similar trick many years ago in an old Nissan but I had to put a toggle switch let the compressor go off and the core to thaw out. If you let the system run too long with the compressor locked on you will turn your AC coil in the car into a brick temporarily, so that's why it takes a while to thaw out.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Ride 1: 2003 300-A MM, black (naturally), K&N cold air, Granitelli Racing coils, Kybe shocks, Autometer "real" oil pressure and voltmeter, 14 inch front rotors and stainless lines from TCE with 6-piston Wilwood calipers and Hawk HPS pads, cryo-treated slotted rear rotors with TCE stainless lines and Hawk HPS pads, tune by Lidio, LED headlamps. Coming Soon: LED foglights, 200 Amp Alternator.

    Ride 2: 2001 Kenny Brown "Panther 2" Crown Victoria, Black. K&N cold air intake to Allen Engine Development supercharger system with water-to-air intercooled Eaton MP-90 at 8 pounds. Extensive chassis bracing, Brembo 4-piston front calipers on 13 inch rotors with stainless lines. Trunk-relocated Optima Red-Top. 5000K Bi-Xenon HID's. And much, much more.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Most likely it is the Blower Control Module (BCM). Tap the BCM (under the hood, behind the passenger side cam cover). If tapping the BCM makes the blower work correctly, the BCM needs to be replaced.
    Thanks for the tip. You saved me a lot of time digging into the HVAC workings. My blower was intermittent a couple months ago, seemed to stabilise as functional, then about two weeks ago it went off and stayed off. One moderate tap on the BCM with a plastic hammer and it's back for however long it lasts. If it does not want to remain on, I know where part of my bonus is going.

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