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Thread: Sometimes car hard to start

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    Well, I'm sure I'm not the only one, but I'm not that good at these things. And maybe I don't understand how to heat shrink this wire properly. The wire is quite thick so not sure I have something to cut a wire that thick after measuring it other than my regular wire cutter which is for normal size wires and too small. I suppose I could find youtube videos on how to crimp properly and how to heat shrink. I guess I could try that.
    With a little effort you can probably cut it with a good pair of lineman's pliers, if not borrow or buy a cheap cable cutter: https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-...ers-61422.html

    Heat shrink is easy. Slide HS tubing on wire (make sure you do this before crimping if the tubing will not fit over the ends after crimping is complete) and center over what you want covered, heat it up with cigarette lighter or heat gun. be careful to move flame around as to not overheat/burn the material.

    Done

    WLB
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  2. #17
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    I have been using the old screwdriver test for many years. However, after reading thru this thread and watching the YouTube video this came to mind. It would have been nice for the person in the video to put the microphone up to the screwdriver so those that do not know could hear the different sounds.

    That's when I stumbled onto this video showing a shop hack that improves on the screwdriver test.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHtLH_m9gN4

    The only trouble that I see is: if the person has a long screwdriver they may also have a stethoscope.

    Anyway, thought it was a pretty good shop hack along with maybe being a little safer for your head when the screwdriver slips into a pulley.
    Last edited by Shornaday; 09-12-2017 at 08:22 PM. Reason: change text
    2004 Mercury Marauder - Silver Birch
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shornaday View Post
    I have been using the old screwdriver test for many years. However, after reading thru this thread and watching the YouTube video this came to mind. It would have been nice for the person in the video to put the microphone up to the screwdriver so those that do not know could hear the different sounds.

    That's when I stumbled onto this video showing a shop hack that improves on the screwdriver test.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHtLH_m9gN4

    The only trouble that I see is: if the person has a long screwdriver they may also have a stethoscope.

    Anyway, thought it was a pretty good shop hack along with maybe being a little safer for your head when the screwdriver slips into a pulley.


    Must admit that is pretty damn clever! And my 36" screwdriver set would make that a breeze.

    I always use my stethoscope with pointed end but even with that it can be really difficult at times.


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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  4. #19
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    The ole jug on screw driver trick, nice.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Must admit that is pretty damn clever! And my 36" screwdriver set would make that a breeze.

    I always use my stethoscope with pointed end but even with that it can be really difficult at times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    3' 3/8 extension works even better than screw driver.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  6. #21
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    Simplistic and yet brilliant. Was amazed to hear the bad pulley comparitive!


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
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  7. #22
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    Haven't had the problem since early September as I've been busy. Car has been normal up until Friday afternoon when I went to the park for a walk and then the car wouldn't start. Exact same symptoms. Kept cleaning the battery cables and tried my new portable jumpstarter. Nothing. Clean the posts one more time for smiles and giggles and the car finally started. Got the short distance to my brother's apartment and car kept starting normally when I tried it. My brothers little volt reader thing shows battery normal and alternator normal when engine is on. It's been normal this weekend and to work today. Might be normal for another month as far as I know. But this is becoming a pain.

    I did read one article saying try my other key since PATs can go flaky. Also read solenoid but easier to replace starter at the same time.

    My alternator might be old and tired at 175,000 miles but I still think something else is going on.
    2025 Subaru Forester (Daily Driver)
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    1988 LTD Crown Victoria S

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    Haven't had the problem since early September as I've been busy. Car has been normal up until Friday afternoon when I went to the park for a walk and then the car wouldn't start. Exact same symptoms. Kept cleaning the battery cables and tried my new portable jumpstarter. Nothing. Clean the posts one more time for smiles and giggles and the car finally started. Got the short distance to my brother's apartment and car kept starting normally when I tried it. My brothers little volt reader thing shows battery normal and alternator normal when engine is on. It's been normal this weekend and to work today. Might be normal for another month as far as I know. But this is becoming a pain.

    I did read one article saying try my other key since PATs can go flaky. Also read solenoid but easier to replace starter at the same time.

    My alternator might be old and tired at 175,000 miles but I still think something else is going on.
    Try swapping the starter relay with another like relay or a new one.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  9. #24
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    Drive to Ford Store, pay $19 and replace starter relay all together. BUY an extra and keep new and old one for an emergency spares (mark old one w sharpie).

    I've had two complex issues: Starting issues, and AC issues... after much blood, sweat, and tears...and futzing around testing stuff, banging on starters, rocking car, replacing various brake stop and AC parts... BOTH ISSUES FIXED by simply replacing the RELAYS.


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    Drive to Ford Store, pay $19 and replace starter relay all together. BUY an extra and keep new and old one for an emergency spares (mark old one w sharpie).

    I've had two complex issues: Starting issues, and AC issues... after much blood, sweat, and tears...and futzing around testing stuff, banging on starters, rocking car, replacing various brake stop and AC parts... BOTH ISSUES FIXED by simply replacing the RELAYS.
    Remember these cars and their electrical systems are 13 or 14 + years old. Imagine how many times the relays have opened and closed. Relays get weaker every time they are used. Last year I replaced all of mine. Wouldn't hurt to have a couple of spares in the glove box.

    A good anti theft device would be to gut an old relay and replace the starter relay with the gutted one.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  11. #26
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    Is the starter relay in the under hood fuse box in front of the battery?


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  12. #27
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    Car is starting the same not starting issues again. I replaced the starter fuse relay under the hood in the fuse box by the battery and didn't help. So it can't be the fuse relay or the battery What next? Also tried battery booster and cleaning the terminals.
    2025 Subaru Forester (Daily Driver)
    2003 Mercury Marauder 300B
    1988 LTD Crown Victoria S

  13. #28
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    Are you sure it is not the fuel pump?

  14. #29
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    My truck was doing this off and on and it ended up being corroded wiring inside the insulation down at the starter. The wiring was literally green dust for about 5-6”s into the insulation. I ended up getting a whole new harness up to the battery from Ford.


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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent2006 View Post
    Are you sure it is not the fuel pump?


    What does a fuel pump have to do with not cranking???


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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