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Thread: Blower's.... what is best?

  1. #1
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    Blower's.... what is best?

    As the title says, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger, my question, being a newb and all, I am looking to do an Eaton Kit or the Lysholm Twin Screw kit. I am not considering anything else, those are the choices.

    My MM is for the most part stock, low miles (16k), SW headers/cats, CAI, and a tune.

    Which will do me the best and why, I know which way I am leaning, but I want to know from those in the know and have the real world experience with these that I don't.

    Post up and help a brother out....

  2. #2
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    i belive the TS is sugjested for built motors only.
    i do have a cobra short block if you do really want the TS
    2010 fusion se


  3. #3
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    Well, after I grenade this motor, I was considering a forged longblock.

  4. #4
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    lol i wouldnt do it that way. it may end up costing you more then if you upgrade the motor at the same time.
    2010 fusion se


  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Spectragod View Post
    As the title says, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger, my question, being a newb and all, I am looking to do an Eaton Kit or the Lysholm Twin Screw kit. I am not considering anything else, those are the choices.

    My MM is for the most part stock, low miles (16k), SW headers/cats, CAI, and a tune.

    Which will do me the best and why, I know which way I am leaning, but I want to know from those in the know and have the real world experience with these that I don't.

    Post up and help a brother out....
    Well if you are wanting Eaton call Jerry Barnes, a Lysholm Twin Screw kit, would be ok, up to about 450 RWHP after that then you are rolling dice any thing after that. I my self like this.


  6. #6
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    Get a eaton kit keep the boost between 9-14 psi and you will have more than enough to get your rocks off
    2004 DTR Mercury Marauder
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  7. #7
    Jerry makes a great kit, I think Gregg likes his as well.


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DTRMiguel View Post
    Get a eaton kit keep the boost between 9-14 psi and you will have more than enough to get your rocks off

    Dont go over 9-10psi unless you want to repeat trilogy #33's downfall at englishtown.


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
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    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    Dont go over 9-10psi unless you want to repeat trilogy #33's downfall at englishtown.
    Uhhhh, yeah, saw those pics. I almost bought that car, then I figured I would buy one that was un-molested.... and keep it that way, that lasted 6 months.

    Anyhow, not looking for any track action, just want that extra oooomph to pass, merge, embarass performance cars etc..

    In all seriousness, this car is just a occasional driver, I just want to make sure I can back up Marauder heritage should the need arise.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectragod View Post
    Uhhhh, yeah, saw those pics. I almost bought that car, then I figured I would buy one that was un-molested.... and keep it that way, that lasted 6 months.

    Anyhow, not looking for any track action, just want that extra oooomph to pass, merge, embarass performance cars etc..

    In all seriousness, this car is just a occasional driver, I just want to make sure I can back up Marauder heritage should the need arise.
    you should just get the eaton kit if that's all you want. It can deliver a lot more than you are wanting.



    11.90 @ 117.5mph on 93 octane
    324 shortblock, Novi 2000, Now with optional axle removing tires
    Igziabeher

  11. #11
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    An eaton is proven performance and will do you no wrong. I drive mine in all weather! I don't care if its -10 to 115 degrees with the a/c on full blast, I have raced it in 50 degrees and 100 degrees and never once ran hot. The caracteristics of the car don't change at all, unless you want to pass some one.

    Mine is so well mannered that if i have to drive in the snow so be it. The Lysholm kit looks to be even more impressive but is it needed? You can swap down to a 2.8 pulley on the Eaton (if forged) and have quite the monster. If i could do it all over again i would not change a thing.

    With either kit you will no longer recognise your car. There will be one additional purchase that you will have to make.............Drag radials!!!

    My 12.92 was acheived with a stock pulley, flowmasters, and a k&n drop in w/MT Streets, thats it. Not shaby for out of the box power, just think of all the room to build on when i feel i need some more.

    I am also still running the stock trilogy chip untill i get a real dyno.
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  12. #12
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    You can't go wrong either way...

    They both ROCK!

    ALOHA


    '03 A Build Date 8/02
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    When I turn on my car...It returns the favor

  13. #13
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    Get the base trilogy kit and be done.

    The KING of BLING!


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  14. #14
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    You don't need forged internals if you keep the stock pulley/ boost level that is provided in the Twin Screw kit.

    If I'm not mistaking the Eaton kit makes 380- 390hp and the Twin Screw makes about 430 + allot of torque. With the same boost pressure. Seams like an easy choice to me.

    Off course you can change the pulley on the Eaton and make more hp.
    But to me it seams like it would actually be safer to run the lower stock boost pressure off the Twin Screw verses a smaller pulley and higher boost pressure which is needed to make same amount of power with the Eaton?


    And by the way I love my Twin Screw! The power and response from the engine at any rpm is amazing. Plus the sound, looks, quality is also amazing.





  15. #15
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    The level of engineering and quality of the Trilogy kit is great! It has been my daily driver for 2 1/2 years. It runs great from -15F to 105F. If you mechanically incline do the self install, you will appreciate it even more.

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