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Thread: Compressor 'DOH!'

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Compressor 'DOH!'

    I have been using my Sears 5HP/20 GAL upright compressor frequently during this hot, humid July & August.
    I figured I best drain the tank of any condensation that had accumulated in it.
    I dumped the air charge and loosened the draincock, but got no water out of the tank.
    So I unthreaded the entire draincock body from the tank, and WHOA NELLY!
    A good quart of nasty, rusty water dumped onto the floor!
    I guess it had been a LOT longer than I thought since I last drained the tank.
    I know that the inside of the tank is rusty, judging by the condition of the water that drained out.
    Anyone got any suggestions on my next step....

    -Just put the draincock back into the bottom of the tank and charge her back up?

    -Flush out the inside of the tank with clean water and charge it back up?

    -Spray a little WD-40 inside the tank and charge it back up?

    (I know that more moisture will collect in the tank as I use it, and I will definitely drain it more often.)
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  2. #2
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    Get an electronic drain valve. They have a timer which drains the tank periodically for a few seconds. We use them at work, they're great. WWGrainger has them.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

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  3. #3
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    Another option would be to install a small ball valve at the bottom of the tank. This will make it easier to access and operate. You would just need a street elbow, a long nipple and a ¼ turn ball valve. Most hardware stores or home centers will have these items. Best to use brass or galvanized components to combat oxidation.
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Also, it’s better to drain the tank when under pressure because the air helps force the water out.
    <o:p></o:p>
    No need to try and flush the tank. If you drain it on a regular basis it should be just fine.

  4. #4
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    Another option would be to install a small ball valve at the bottom of the tank. This will make it easier to access and operate. You would just need a street elbow, a long nipple and a &#188; turn ball valve. Most hardware stores or home centers will have these items. Best to use brass or galvanized components to combat oxidation.

    Also, it’s better to drain the tank under pressure because the air helps force the water out.
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<o:p></o:p>
    No need to flush the tank. If you drain it on a regular basis it should be just fine.
    Last edited by crouse; 08-16-2006 at 08:50 AM.

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    I had rust in my tank too. So bad it was plugging up my lines. I have been a bad boy in draining my tank...

    I took all the plugs out of the tank (ends) and dried it out well. Sc***** what I could with a long screwdriver & sandpaper. Knocked all the nastys out and painted the inside with a good Epoxy. The Appliance Epoxy seemed to work well. (white, so's I could more easily inspect in the future)

    I did this two years ago and have had no rust since (nor have I inspected). I did use an entire can in there. Kept tuning it to cake it on good. Especially the bottom.

    Be sure to put a Sealer on the end plugs, otherwise they will leak. No, not Teflon Tape, that's only a thread lubricant. Get pipe thread sealer.....Blue stuff....

    This worked for me...

    Hope it works for you...
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  7. #7
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    I put an auto drain plug on mine.... I got it at habor freight a while back... It was on sale... has worked just fine....

  8. #8
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    DON'T ADD WD-40!!! I found this out the hard way once. The new less flammable WD-40 is not as bad, but if you have a can of the old stuff and you spray enough in there, it could diesel (explode).

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