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Thread: Officially getting Boosted!!

  1. #1
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    Mar 2013
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    Officially getting Boosted!!

    Well, I am officially getting the Marauder boosted in 10 days! I have a few quick questions. One is what type of gauges should I want to use? I'm thinking boost (of course) and A/F ratio. Second, I would prefer to have one or both of the gauges mounted in the factory gauge pod. But, it seems that where the lighter goes is angled wrong. IIRC, I have seen a few with boost and /or AF ratio gauges down there for a total of three gauges. How is that accomplished?
    Worst case, I can just do a pillar gauge pod.
    Third, is it necessary to do the cooling mod on my 2004 with its build date (see sig)?

    "RescuRauder", Born on 09/02/2003 & rescued on 04/05/2013. #236 of 3214 and #62 of 1237 in Black. CAI, Some kind of tune, Kooks Headers, X-pipe w/Hi-Flow cats, Magnaflow mufflers, Resonators removed, 4.10's, Metco U&L CA and Watts link, Drilled & slotted rotors, now BOOSTED!! Eaton Swapped 12/29/19!!
    Sold! 1986 Mustang GT Vert, Black, 5spd, new short block, Powerheads, Crower 15511, gears, exhaust etc.

    1968 Ford (Galaxie) XL fastback, 390, factory buckets & auto on floor
    2011 Shelby GT500, Kona Blue with SVT Performance Pkg & Navigation, VMP tuned ~550rwhp/550rwtq. Finally Blown!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    1,874
    AutoMeter makes angle rings. I put My A/F gauge on the column.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    8,598
    Blog Entries
    2
    AeroForce scan gauges on the A Pillar = 4 displays.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  4. #4
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    Last edited by Lowndex; 07-10-2018 at 12:21 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    North Aurora, IL
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    Do the cooling mod. It’s cheap, easy and cheap no brainer.


    Sent from the White House on the tax payers dime.





    Great quotes!!
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northeast OH
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    i have autometer gauges, carbon fiber faced that will be for sale, boost, air-fuel,trans,fuel pressure, volts. i have to go thru them and match up the wiring harnesses. i dont have pricing yet, but usually close to half of new or so.mayve higher,maybe lower
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
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    Get these. Cut a hole with a hole saw where the cigarette lighter is and mount.
    .
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...iABEgKbEfD_BwE
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    262
    dont rly need a boost gauge on a supercharged engine only thing its good for is to see if u have a boost leak which you should be able to feel

    Best bet is just the aem DIGITAL wideband. I usually toss the gauge in the glove box and peek at it whenever i want to check things out, its not something you need to stare at unless your racing and concerned about lean out

    I much prefer the stock appearance just my preference

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by sflrainmaker01 View Post
    Well, I am officially getting the Marauder boosted in 10 days! I have a few quick questions. One is what type of gauges should I want to use? I'm thinking boost (of course) and A/F ratio. Second, I would prefer to have one or both of the gauges mounted in the factory gauge pod. But, it seems that where the lighter goes is angled wrong. IIRC, I have seen a few with boost and /or AF ratio gauges down there for a total of three gauges. How is that accomplished?
    Worst case, I can just do a pillar gauge pod.
    Third, is it necessary to do the cooling mod on my 2004 with its build date (see sig)?
    What type of S/C?
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Southwest Florida
    Age
    60
    Posts
    1,524
    Quote Originally Posted by guspech750 View Post
    Do the cooling mod. ItÂ’s cheap, easy and cheap no brainer.



    Sent from the White House on the tax payers dime.
    The shop said that depending on the build date, it might already have the heads with the upgraded cooling passages from Ford. Otherwise, he said absolutely to do the cooling mod.

    Quote Originally Posted by RubberCtyRauder View Post
    i have autometer gauges, carbon fiber faced that will be for sale, boost, air-fuel,trans,fuel pressure, volts. i have to go thru them and match up the wiring harnesses. i dont have pricing yet, but usually close to half of new or so.mayve higher,maybe lower
    Let me know. Pics?

    Quote Originally Posted by sailsmen View Post
    What type of S/C?
    Eaton, M112

    "RescuRauder", Born on 09/02/2003 & rescued on 04/05/2013. #236 of 3214 and #62 of 1237 in Black. CAI, Some kind of tune, Kooks Headers, X-pipe w/Hi-Flow cats, Magnaflow mufflers, Resonators removed, 4.10's, Metco U&L CA and Watts link, Drilled & slotted rotors, now BOOSTED!! Eaton Swapped 12/29/19!!
    Sold! 1986 Mustang GT Vert, Black, 5spd, new short block, Powerheads, Crower 15511, gears, exhaust etc.

    1968 Ford (Galaxie) XL fastback, 390, factory buckets & auto on floor
    2011 Shelby GT500, Kona Blue with SVT Performance Pkg & Navigation, VMP tuned ~550rwhp/550rwtq. Finally Blown!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    1,604
    Quote Originally Posted by guspech750 View Post
    Do the cooling mod. It’s cheap, easy and cheap no brainer.

    I'd recommend the MMR kit. Only reason is once bolted in, the fittings can't turn causing a potential o-ring leak. I have the Cobra Engineering kit and went to double check the hose clamps and the slightest wiggle caused a leak.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    Revised heads still get too hot from what I’ve read.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    262
    im still amazed they sell the "kits" for $100, $200, and even $300 and like the cobra eng kit doesnt even include all the fittings. Ive always just used two stock tubes. And ran them in to a tee done.

  14. #14
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    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Dirty South
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    3,836
    Not true.... I have a cobra engineering kit and it came with everything....

    You can order them from James without connectors it’s your choice

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Baltimore, Md.
    Age
    64
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    11,666
    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Revised heads still get too hot from what I’ve read.
    Yep....piss poor design expecting the coolant to flow into a dead end (back of cylinder head) then find its way back out.....
    AND do an effective job of cooling the back two cylinders .....

    Any brand of head cooling mod cures the lame OEM design.
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
    w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
    Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
    Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
    B&M Trans cooler w/fan, Level 10 Shift Kit, Art Carr Hughes Deep Sump Trans Pan,
    SVO Rearend Girdle, Redline Gear lube; OEM 3.55s
    'Real Gauges' + matching Trans Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure, Vacuum/Boost Gauge
    Built: 10/15/02 Bought: 12/16/02 Sold: 10/15/18

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