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Thread: Fuel Pump Saga Please Help

  1. #16
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    For those of you saying the tank doesn't need to be dropped to replace the pump, as I understood reading here a few years back everyone was saying when you replace the pump, drop the tank, at least partially) get new snap bolts as it will make putting the tank back in much easier. What am I missing on this repair?

    Sorry, I'm not trying to confuse the OP, but if I'm confused others may be as well who thought they read what I read.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    For those of you saying the tank doesn't need to be dropped to replace the pump, as I understood reading here a few years back everyone was saying when you replace the pump, drop the tank, at least partially) get new snap bolts as it will make putting the tank back in much easier. What am I missing on this repair?

    Sorry, I'm not trying to confuse the OP, but if I'm confused others may be as well who thought they read what I read.
    You "have" to replace those if you remove the tank, it is near impossible to get the nuts started back on as you cannot push the straps up that far easily.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectragod View Post
    You "have" to replace those if you remove the tank, it is near impossible to get the nuts started back on as you cannot push the straps up that far easily.
    Incorrect!!!! I have never had a problem.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack View Post
    Incorrect!!!! I have never had a problem.
    But you are dreamy and the best, I am not, I had to opt for the $8 worth of hardware.
    I LOVE Jerry's bar, it's my kinda place...........






    When you are dead, you don’t know you are dead. It is difficult only for others. It is the same way when you are stupid.

    "Chuck Norris built my stock longblock. It runs on the tears of small children and makes 10,000 hp. He said it's his 'street version' "


    Trilogy # 192 / T.S. 0012

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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    Okay, so forgive my ignorance... So the fuel hat is different than the fuel pump and the fuel tank correct? And I'm hoping and presuming that it, too, can be replaced using a regular car part store. I am also hoping it is easy and not so expensive to do so? Shouldn't I just buy that as well while I am at it just to be safe and if it is bad wouldn't a code come up?

    For that part, is there a particular one that you all suggest? Thanks guys again.
    The hat is the circular piece on the left in the photo MyBlackBeasts posted above. All of the parts in that picture are collectively referred to as the "fuel pump assembly", even though the actual pump is the shiny cylinder with the green connector.

    If you don't have mega horsepower, you don't need God's Own Pump. Can't go wrong with OEM.

    As for driving it with a fuel tank leak...um...is your life insurance paid up? I wouldn't drive it any farther than absolutely necessary other than to the shop where it gets fixed.
    Last edited by RF Overlord; 09-25-2017 at 12:46 PM.
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  6. #21
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    Um, okay, so now there seems to be a group of people saying that there is a reason for dropping the tank.


    Could it be argued that dropping the tank is done to simply make it easier to get to this part and that they are not necessarily doing anything wrong, in a sense, but just doing things the long way, or the hard way? Is that an accurate way of looking at it? Mind you, this garage is not a Jiffy Lube. It is a local place made up of maybe three locations. I just want to make that clear. But I do wonder if they have a certain method for doing fuel pumps and simply did it the way that they always do fuel pumps...


    Anyway, with that said, I am starting to see that maybe there is more than one way to skin a cat? But then again, something did go wrong two times so... there's that...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RF Overlord View Post
    The hat is the circular piece on the left in the photo MyBlackBeasts posted above. All of the parts in that picture are collectively referred to as the "fuel pump assembly", even though the actual pump is the shiny cylinder with the green connector.


    Ah... gotcha... What is confusing is if you do a search among different car parts stores online for fuel pumps for the Mercury Marauder 2004, the picture that comes up is different every time. I wonder if that is because some include the sender and some do not. Anyway, that is why I asked for a specific suggestion. Now that I have one, I know which one to get. Thanks guys.

  8. #23
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    From Rock Auto:

    Motorcraft Pump assembly
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....428218&jsn=387

    All pump assemblies
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/m...assembly,10147

    Looks like all are compete, hat, pump, filter sock, gasket & harness.
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  9. #24
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    I talked with my auto technician friend. He looked in his service manual to figure out anytime the world they took the tank off. Looks like according to "regular procedure" it calls to do so so as not to alter the wiring harness form the pump. Yes you can cut the wires and do a work around but maybe they don't do that. I don't know but my friend and I are going to do it so it doesn't matter. Lesson learned. Now to figure out where the leak is.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    Okay, so forgive my ignorance... So the fuel hat is different than the fuel pump and the fuel tank correct? And I'm hoping and presuming that it, too, can be replaced using a regular car part store. I am also hoping it is easy and not so expensive to do so? Shouldn't I just buy that as well while I am at it just to be safe and if it is bad wouldn't a code come up?

    For that part, is there a particular one that you all suggest? Thanks guys again.
    The hat is just the round piece of metal that the lines and wires transition through to the pump & sender. It covers the hole in the tank and you can see it in the pic on post #11.

    The martyo tune & 4.19s will work fine with OEM pump.

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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    Well, I'm not sure if you would consider the Martyo tune with a SCT tuner a HP upgrade. That is the only above stock upgrade I have. I plan on getting 4.10 gears. I've thought about just having that guy do the fuel pump but like I said, my friend who is an auto technician obviously knows his stuff. He just like you all where he is confused as to why these guys at the garage would need to take the tank off. He knew that without knowing the Marauder intimately like you all do.


    Until I have time to do this, in your guys opinion, do you think it is safe to drive my car with the aforementioned leak? It is not leaking anymore. I do smell fuel when I get out after driving down a hill or what not. I assume this is because it has splashed and maybe some fuel come out of that loose gasket, but again, I don't see anything actively leaking anymore. I just want to make sure I'm not going to go down in a blazing ball of fire. Despite how cool that sounds. I mean, if I have to go down, that does sound pretty cool, but still... I have thought about having the garage fix that mistake at least, but maybe I don't want them laying hands on this car any more at all...
    No, do not drive the car with a known fuel leak. Just way too many things can go wrong in that scenario that can cause injury & property damage to others, not just the car. Remember, it is the gas vapors that burns!

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  12. #27
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    So I took it to my friend. We found where the leak is coming from. It is from the fuel neck. He believes they didn't align the fuel neck gasket properly when they put the tank back on. But I wanted to ask if you all know if the part that I have pictured which is the fuel neck handler going into the tank is supposed to be tight and not wiggle at all? He noticed that it can move when he twisted it. Anyway, he is going to replace the fuel neck gasket. Link to picture is below. Thanks.

    https://m.imgur.com/FGnxAQ9

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    No, the tank absolutely does not have to come off.

    If the unit was on top of tank it would but on these cars it is on the side and is easily accessible.

    If they are telling you the tank has to come down, I think you have discovered your entire problem! Time to find a mechanic that has skills beyond a quik-lub tech...


    Hello I have replaced the fuel pump (without dropping the tank) and going back with tank seal/ gasket and the tank hat. I cannot get the seal/gasket to stay in place.


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  14. #29
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    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...387829&jsn=609

    not to thread-jack, but see the picture of the fuel pump in the link?.... shows three rubber spikes sticking up from the round gasket. Those need to be pulled through holes in the fuel pump round plate, or you'll never get the gasket to stay seated as you start the 6 screws to mount the round plate to the fuel tank hole. might need to order a new gasket if yours is messed up.

  15. #30
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    Thank you


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