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Thread: Suspension Squeak

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    318

    Suspension Squeak

    Hey guys,
    For some reason my marauder wanted to present another issue at the same time of a different one. Just going to be one of those weeks. I have been hearing a occational squeak for the past 6 weeks, maybe like 1 squeak every time I drove it, or not at all during some drives, so it didn't bother me, and that squeak would occur when I go over a pothole or bump in the road. Now I am hearing it all the time when I go over bumps/dips in the road. It also occurs mainly when turning right WHILE MOVING, rarely squeaking while turning left while moving. But when I turn the wheel while NOT moving, (In park or foot on brake), no squeak. Furthermore I hear it when braking and the weight is on the front of the vehicle,(No its not the brakes already checked and have all new pads, rotors and calipers like 6 months ago.) All of my suspension is stock except the rear "Poverty Coils" which the PO had put in when the bags blew. Let me know what you guys think.
    PS, I also hear the squeak when the car is off, and I shut my door and the body tilts a bit, (NO its not the hinge). Thank you, I appreciate the expertise,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    West 'burbs Chicago
    Age
    36
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    3,823
    Start with the easy stuff, like checking for the infamous hood squeak.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    '04 Marauder #357 of 3213 - Built and Eaton swapped - "MERCD"
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Oakland NJ
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    9
    I had a lot of the squeaking you described and when I raised the height of the hood bumper stops it went away.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northeast OH
    Posts
    7,999
    rubber seal driver side at cowl where hood seals against, silicone spray. my 03 cv sport would squeak when shutting door and various bumps
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  5. #5
    Hood stops. Swaybar bushings. Ball joints. Hungry mouse.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    318
    Will do, Ill let you know if this fixes it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    318
    Still squeaking after silicone on hood seal, raised hood stops, still squeaks. I thought all the bushings, and ball joints had non grease-able fittings. I remember hearing that the grease was good for the life of the part. What next

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Mexican Gang Infested Salinas, CA
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    68
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    1,318
    Quote Originally Posted by NorthShoreChiMM View Post
    Still squeaking after silicone on hood seal, raised hood stops, still squeaks. I thought all the bushings, and ball joints had non grease-able fittings. I remember hearing that the grease was good for the life of the part. What next

    With me it was the hood and the worn Metco poly CA bushings which squeaked like crazy. I lubed the bushings, and dropped in F350 rubber hood bumpers, and put a dab of chassis lube on the standard hood bumper stops. Then adjusted them out a bit. That pretty much solved it.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    3,737
    Simple easy fast.


    Buy a role of higher quality electricians tape. (Not the .99 cent black tape, but the $4.99 real rubberized kind).


    Hard to put into words:


    Cut a 5 inch piece, open hood, look up, and gently wrap the "U BAR" under the nose of the hood lid -- the "U bar" hood connector that actually goes into the hood slotted clamp lock.


    Then look down and at each front corner of your hood/engine plastic front face plate (covers the highlights etc...), and turn the rubber round hood supports at each corner 1/2 to 3/4 turn counter clockwise. Then Put a dab of white lithium grease on top of each (as per above post). I actually also put a felt circle (sticker) on the bottom of the hood where the round hood supports touched the under-hood.

    I had the worst hood squeak ever... and when the group helped figure out what it was, I actually bought 100 black heat shrink rubber 4inch pieces, and was going to make kits for everyone... just never got around to doing it.


    The above should solve it 98% of the time.

    If the above this doesn't fix it all -- or you now hear another lighter pitched squeak ( I had two), white lithium grease spray parking brake cable and rubber cable "riser/separator" under driver's side rear door / driver's side rear foot well area. There is a rubber "riser" there that keeps P-Brake cable from touching the undercarriage. The rubber gets dirty/dry and rubs a worn spot against the bottom of car body. It also moves around some. I coated the entire cable, cable joints, and the rubber "riser" because the P-Brake had never been used here in the CA Valley.
    Last edited by 1Marauder; 02-11-2018 at 12:08 PM.


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Oswego, IL
    Posts
    117
    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    Simple easy fast.


    Buy a role of higher quality electricians tape. (Not the .99 cent black tape, but the $4.99 real rubberized kind).


    Hard to put into words:


    Cut a 5 inch piece, open hood, look up, and gently wrap the "U BAR" under the nose of the hood lid -- the "U bar" hood connector that actually goes into the hood slotted clamp lock.
    I had that problem on my GMQ a few years ago... I was going to do the Scotch #88 tape trick... but when I looked at the "U-bar" it was worn more than halfway through where the latch grabbed it. Frankly, that scared the crap out of me, and I replaced the "U-bar"... the new part (from Ford) was redesigned...
    Regards,
    Gene

    2004 Grandma Marquis LS HPP ( With "MZT" and "SCT ": "The Undercover Marauder")

    2004 Ford Ranger Duratec Flareside

    1984 Ford Mustang LX Convertible

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    3,737
    Quote Originally Posted by PonyGuy View Post
    I had that problem on my GMQ a few years ago... I was going to do the Scotch #88 tape trick... but when I looked at the "U-bar" it was worn more than halfway through where the latch grabbed it. Frankly, that scared the crap out of me, and I replaced the "U-bar"... the new part (from Ford) was redesigned...


    YES! This too! And wrap the new one before installing!


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Next door to my neighbor
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    Quote Originally Posted by PonyGuy View Post
    I had that problem on my GMQ a few years ago... I was going to do the Scotch #88 tape trick... but when I looked at the "U-bar" it was worn more than halfway through where the latch grabbed it. Frankly, that scared the crap out of me, and I replaced the "U-bar"... the new part (from Ford) was redesigned...


    ^ This. The striker plate is known to get a grove worn into it from the latch. I did a couple of spot welds on mine to build it back up and ground it smooth years ago.


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