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Thread: Driveshaft?

  1. #1
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    Driveshaft?

    I would like some input on the MMs drive shaft from what ive read if you have
    stage 1 mods the weak link is the drive shaft. Would a PI drive shaft - XW7Z-4602-AA be an upgrade or are they about the same? If it is a better what is a fair price. thank you.

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    Use the search function. There has been extensive discussion on driveshafts.
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  3. #3
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    why didnt i think of that

    Drive shafts ( 1 2 3)
    burt ragio Still doesnt answer the question in the post. did you read what i wrote?

  4. #4
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    what do you mean by weak point? Some people had issue at high speed with vibration. As far as a part that will break with "stage one" (whatever that means). I still have the stock driveshaft and it's fine.


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  5. #5
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    vmaxmarauder - Would a PI drive shaft - XW7Z-4602-AA be an upgrade or are they about the same?
    That is the part # for the aluminum metal matrix driveshaft.

    It would be an upgrade, however, it is no longer available from FoMoCo. You would need to find a used one out of a 2000 P71. *NOTE: Wasn't available prior to nor after that year. Standard issue that year only.

    If it is a better what is a fair price.
    Depends ... Some salvage yards don't know the difference between it and the normal P71 aluminum driveshaft.

    If you get used, would recommend new U-joints (grease-able) and having it balanced.

    Got one a few years back from a CrownVic.us member for $150 (included shipping, U-joints, and balance).

    And ... As long as you have it out, consider a METCO driveshaft safety loop.

    Last edited by gdmjoe; 12-13-2008 at 11:21 AM.

  6. #6
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    Thank you for the info regarding the driveshaft. the loop will be installed with the driveshaft. The stage 1 mod from what ive read in the SEARCH area is basic upgrades to a n/a vehicle ie; cai, xcal, ud pulleys,gears. bolt on horsepower that poor folks like me can aford v/s twin scwrew superchargers. And for those of you that answer every post with check the SEARCH button dont assume that the person that posed the question did not already spend adequate time searching through tons of posts. If that is your answer dont reply to my post!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmaxmarauder View Post
    Thank you for the info regarding the driveshaft. the loop will be installed with the driveshaft. The stage 1 mod from what ive read in the SEARCH area is basic upgrades to a n/a vehicle ie; cai, xcal, ud pulleys,gears. bolt on horsepower that poor folks like me can aford v/s twin scwrew superchargers. And for those of you that answer every post with check the SEARCH button dont assume that the person that posed the question did not already spend adequate time searching through tons of posts. If that is your answer dont reply to my post!
    I don't see what danger you could run into wish a stock drive shaft, unless you are out on the freeway every night doing 130mph for good periods of time.


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  8. #8
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    It would be an upgrade, however, it is no longer available from FoMoCo. You would need to find a used one out of a 2000 P71. *NOTE: Wasn't available prior to nor after that year. Standard issue that year only.


    Quote:
    Yes it was standard 00 only BUT MANY of the other years had them retrofit due to TSB. So don't restrict your search by year. Go by color band code.

    There is an advantage to an MMX. With 3.55-3.90 gears your 1/2 critical speed is right in "I'm a speeder" highway cruising territory (65-75 mph). If you have 4.10s your 1/2 cricital speed is WELL into your cruise speed range, probably right around 50-55 mph. Most people won't notice it but 1/2 critical speed will vibe somewhat. How perfect the balance on the shaft is will affect this and since the cars are production line made, will vary one to another. You typically design a vehicle/shaft combo so 1/2 critical speed is out of the range where you will cruise at sustained speeds (you really don't want a 60 mph 1/2 critical speed) but w/ the MM's extremeley long d shaft, it was not possible.

    So moving critical speed up can have benefits even if you don't plan on driving 140 mph. If you cruise at 70 your ride may be smoother w/ a lighter and/or stronger shaft that increases the critical speed.

    Entirely too much though but I am very picky. Look for CVPI's on car-part.com and call them up and ask what the 3 band color code is on the shaft. That will tell you for sure whether it is plain AL or MMX. You can find MMX shafts for under $100 easily if you are willing to spend the time to call a bunch of nearby places.
    Last edited by Stranger in the Black Sedan; 12-15-2008 at 02:37 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Been many threads on this subject. With 4.10 gears you risk damage to the tailshaft housing with the stock driveshaft. Some people have had positive results by having a high-speed balance put on the stock shaft. The MMX is no longer available from Ford or from Dynotech, so if you want one it's junkyard time. I think Dennis has one leftover Dynotech MMX in stock.
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  10. #10
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    I had my stock driveshaft rebuilt, heat straightened, and balanced after my 4.10's were installed.

    Mine is the standard driveshaft with the Pink, Green, and Blue stripes starting from the transmission yoke going back. Cost me about $150 and never had any issues.

    The only time I feel any vibration is when my tires need to be balanced again which I do every 5k wether it is needed or not.

    There are many discussions on this and some people swear that a MMX driveshaft or aftermarket is needed.

    Like gdmjoe said I would recomend a driveshaft loop regardless of what you go with.

  11. #11
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    Okay, my interest is peaked now. I do a lot of highway driving and had my 4.10s installed 2 months ago. I never heard about the driveshaft needed until now. I previously didn't know this could be an issue, what's the deal?





  12. #12
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    Look up driveshaft critical speed on the intarweb. It's at whatever driveshaft rpm correlates to a road speed of around 130 mph with our stock DS, assuming stock tire size and 3.55 gears. I also have a spreadsheet somewhere that finds theoretical driveshaft critical speed based on material properties, length, and diameter. It's a shaft speed of 6,xxx rpms, don't remember off the top of my head, 6200 or something around there. That would assume a PERFECT balance and a totally perfectly constructed shaft, which is not obtainable in the real world. Imperfect balance will lower critical speed. I think driveline literature said to assume that you can never exceed 90% of critical speed. The TSB for having to upgrade pursuit CVs to the MMX shaft said it was because high speed running w/ the regular AL shaft would cause early failure of the tailshaft bushing of the trans.

    Rebalancing a stock shaft is only going to accomplish so much. You can't make the critical speed of the shaft any higher than that of a theoretically perfectly straight, and perfectly balanced shaft. An MMX shaft will still have a higher critical speed than even the best example of a production stock shaft. I wouldn't throw money away rebalancing a stock shaft. You think a local driveshaft shop is going to have a more expensive balancer than FORD? Unlikely. Most small time shops are going to be using really old equipment and god knows if and when it is calibrated. Just because a shop rebalances and the location and size of the balance weights changes does not mean they made it better. They easily may have made it worse.
    Last edited by Stranger in the Black Sedan; 12-18-2008 at 11:35 AM.
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  13. #13
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    What is the color band code for the MMX drive shaft p/n XW7Z-4602-AA ?
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georges93LX View Post
    What is the color band code for the MMX drive shaft p/n XW7Z-4602-AA ?

    http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...aft#post674083

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  15. #15
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    Georges93LX - What is the color band code for the MMX drive shaft p/n XW7Z-4602-AA ?
    In addition to the banding, another hint ....
    Last edited by gdmjoe; 05-25-2019 at 06:43 PM.

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