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Thread: Tick tick update.

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Tick tick update.

    The car has been holding up just fine. A friend of mine told me to put Lucas in the car when the oil is changed. I changed the oil and pored the stuff in. The tick went away or so I thought. Turns out the car makes the tick noise when it's first started and cold. When I drive it for five minutes or all day it's gone. Another noise was the exhaust leak too. I'm going to get that taken care of and see if all noises go away.

    If not I was told it could be a lifter. I don't know what it cost to replace one or the time it takes. Does anyone know how long it takes to replace one?

    Also even if the tick goes away upon use I still wanna Hot Rod this car this summer. I am guessing the Lucas is just to limp around or cruise, not to go to the track, run 12s and not worry.

    Any idea on this possible lifter?
    "Bye Bye, Johnny B. Goode."

  2. #2
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    i know on the 2v's its easy, 4v shouldnt be any different.

    take the valvecover off on the side its making noise and look for a follower that is obviously way too loose, then take a screwdiver and pop the follower out pull the lifter out and replace then put the follower back in, thats really the only hard part getting it back in. thats how i do them on the 2v's

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    Last edited by Rocknthehawk; 11-27-2010 at 12:25 AM.

    Rocknthehawk/Thunderbolt

    Quote Originally Posted by MrBluGruv View Post
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    11.90 @ 117.5mph on 93 octane
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  5. #5
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    Since you had smashed spark plugs something is wrong internally and it ain't likely a lifter/lash adjuster...

    A cracked piston can be noisy when cold but barely noticeable when the engine is at operating temp, at least till it goes Ka-Boom...
    45Kmi - Eaton SC - 430RwHp - SOLD!!!!





  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TFB View Post
    Since you had smashed spark plugs something is wrong internally and it ain't likely a lifter/lash adjuster...

    A cracked piston can be noisy when cold but barely noticeable when the engine is at operating temp, at least till it goes Ka-Boom...
    The cold, hard voice of reason...
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
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  7. #7
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    I kind of get a chuckle out of this thread... Like my step-daughter with her bad Windstar transmission, ask enough people their opinion and eventually one of them will tell you what you want to hear. Then pick that one as the gospel.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    I kind of get a chuckle out of this thread... Like my step-daughter with her bad Windstar transmission, ask enough people their opinion and eventually one of them will tell you what you want to hear. Then pick that one as the gospel.

    Yep, Problem is (as you well know) that cars are based on science and math, there are only facts and pure truth. Dom that whole long block is suspect. It has lots of miles, isn't forged and even if you get the one piston, lifter, cam corrected the others will not be far behind.

    03 reman cobra long block is what you want.

    Good luck.
    2021 F150 XLT Super Crew short bed - no chrome! - 3.5 Ecoboost 400hp/500tq - 36 Gal tank (600 miles) - 4x4 FX4 Offroad + Max Tow - 3.55 Locker - 10 Speed - Pro Power 2kva - 24mpg @ 80 Ford is still the best.
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by babbage View Post
    03 reman cobra long block is what you want.

    Good luck.



    Couldn't agree anymore with this!

    Dom this is what you need!!!

    Don't waste your time with anything else!

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorhead350 View Post
    The car has been holding up just fine. A friend of mine told me to put Lucas in the car when the oil is changed. I changed the oil and pored the stuff in. The tick went away or so I thought. Turns out the car makes the tick noise when it's first started and cold. When I drive it for five minutes or all day it's gone. Another noise was the exhaust leak too. I'm going to get that taken care of and see if all noises go away.

    If not I was told it could be a lifter. I don't know what it cost to replace one or the time it takes. Does anyone know how long it takes to replace one?

    Also even if the tick goes away upon use I still wanna Hot Rod this car this summer. I am guessing the Lucas is just to limp around or cruise, not to go to the track, run 12s and not worry.

    Any idea on this possible lifter?
    Dom, dont you have the hotline to Zack or did he finally cut you off? The guy who swapped out your engine and has been your own personal mechanic can answer all of these questions in a single phone call.

    Also pushrod engines have lifters, we have cam followers. The cam pushes down on the follower to open the valve where on a pushrod engine, the lifters ride on the cam and push the valves open via a pushrod. When my engine let go, I poured Marvel mystery oil in the cylinder and for 5 seconds it quieted the knock then it returned. I had a broke wristpin which cocked the piston and warped my cylinder wall. The wristpin is likely your issue just not as servere.....yet.
    Its likely you're hearing the wrist pin slop as the piston reaches TDC and starts going down. It will only get worse so I suggest stop playing around and have your engine opened up. Unplug each injector til the noise changes, that will isolate which cylinder. The bandaid will be to pull the engine and replace that piston and rod depending on the condition of the cylinder wall. Otherwise you can ask a million questions and never have your problem solved.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackened300a View Post
    Dom, dont you have the hotline to Zack or did he finally cut you off? The guy who swapped out your engine and has been your own personal mechanic can answer all of these questions in a single phone call.

    Also pushrod engines have lifters, we have cam followers. The cam pushes down on the follower to open the valve where on a pushrod engine, the lifters ride on the cam and push the valves open via a pushrod. When my engine let go, I poured Marvel mystery oil in the cylinder and for 5 seconds it quieted the knock then it returned. I had a broke wristpin which cocked the piston and warped my cylinder wall. The wristpin is likely your issue just not as servere.....yet.
    Its likely you're hearing the wrist pin slop as the piston reaches TDC and starts going down. It will only get worse so I suggest stop playing around and have your engine opened up. Unplug each injector til the noise changes, that will isolate which cylinder. The bandaid will be to pull the engine and replace that piston and rod depending on the condition of the cylinder wall. Otherwise you can ask a million questions and never have your problem solved.

    no, 4.6's have cam followers and lifters or lash adjusters depending on what u want to call them.

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...-Lash-Adjuster

  13. #13
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    Whenever I think lifters, I think pushrod motors with solid or hydraulic.

    2003
    MERCURY MARAUDER 300A

    Build Date
    5/31/02
    Sequence#
    #363 of 7839 Black Marauders
    Dyno tested power
    450 RWHP & 405 RWTQ on 93 octane
    Best 1/4 mile time to date
    12.456@109mph
    Visit my Garage
    Blackened300a's Garage



  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackened300a View Post
    I had a broke wristpin which cocked the piston and warped my cylinder wall. The wristpin is likely your issue just not as servere.....yet.
    A wrist pin or busted pin boss in the piston will generally make more noise when the engine is warm... Dom's engine is likely missing a chunk or two of one or more pistons, probably due to detonation...
    45Kmi - Eaton SC - 430RwHp - SOLD!!!!





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    Dom, you won't listen to sound advice just like me back in the day but I will tell you my best possible advice and I know I am wasting my precious fingers typing this but I mean no disrespect at all.

    SELL that Blazer NOW. Buy a good beater car, one with a long history of being dependable (Escort/Taurus/GM/S-10/Astro van) with the money from the Blazer sale. Park the Rauder before more damage is done and put money away whenever possible for a low mileage cobra block. That is the best/cheapest solution that I can share.

    You KNOW this is the best route to take, but you are stubborn just like I used to be, so I get it. Just trying to pass on wise advice from many years of screwing my very self and learning the hardest way possible.

    I refuse to get that attached to a stupid machine that is oh so very replaceable.
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