Well this was the week when both Marauder 1 and # 2 A/Cs decided to stop working!?
Marauder #1 This is my original one and driver, has 160k on it. I determined it probably was the EATC o-ring issue, thus I decided to DIY rebuild using JACook's posting as a guide. It is excellent. Finding the o-rings was the issue. Ford does not stock, NAPA has an A/C o-ring rebuild kit, but does not include any for the EATC unit solenoids. Note: the referenced S70-007 size did not work on mine. Broke 3 trying to get them on - this size was never going to fit. Went back and got S70-008 and they fit great. A shout out to Munaco Sealing solutions here in Greenville,SC for all the help on the oRings, very friendly and helpful people. Used dielectric grease on the rings. The EATC has been replaced, with a OEM Mercury/Ford part in the past, maybe the reason the 007s did not fit.
Marauder #2. Fan suddenly stopped working in one of our rains this week. Thinking about it it might have been when I hit standing water at speed. M#2 only had 15k miles when I bought it in 2008, has 38k today. I could hear the vent doors working when I changed modes on the EATC. After consulting this website and YouTube I felt sure I was looking at either a fan or a fan Blower Control Module (BCM ) issue and most probably a BCM issue.
Checked with Ford and they wanted $172 for a BCM. Found one at NAPA for $61.47. P#BR475.
Now the fun began, but first Thanks to lxlr8 and his post on 11/2/08 on replacing a BCM. Without this post not only would I have not started this but I probably would have given up.
This is a huge PITA replacement. Who ever engineered this probably got a huge bonus from all the Ford/Mercury Service departments And should have their license revoked from designing such a hard to get to item.
The first hurdle is getting the electrical connection off. It is on the backside of the unit and the catch snap is on the bottom with no way for one to see much less get to it. I used brute force and a big screw driver blade and wedged it off. One needs to get this off first because you can then attach the new BCM, turn the EATC on and see if this solves the issue, it did for me.
YOU NEED TO TEST THE NEW UNIT. This is easy to do, just attach the electric connection to the new, lay the new unit somewhere safe it the engine area. Go turn power on in your car - accessories only - (rember you have the heater hoses disconnected). Hit you EATC on and your blower fan should now work.
2 - 3 hours of wrench time.
I am a big guy and have big hands, so I had to start looking at things to remove or tie back to get some hand room.
Two items not covered in the reference post are: 1). There is a metal heat shield sitting on top of the intake manifold in the back left corner. It is held by 2 bolts, remove these and slide the heat shield to the right and forward; 2). Just above where the two heater hoses enter the back wall there is a fixture ( I think related to windshield washers) it is on a bracket. I removed the fixture and tied it up out of the way and then removed the bracket.
Now come the heater hoses. Let's hope you can get to the clamps, easier said than done.
The hose that goes from the back of the block and to the left fitting needs to be completely removed. The one which comes out of the right fitting in the firewall can just be removed at the firewall and folded forward, out of the way.
Now you have to break loose the hoses from there fittings, this was a big problem for me. I could not break them loose using hand and arm power, part being one can not get good access nor good leverage. Finally I was able to get a set of channel lock pliers on the hose and rotate the to break the seal, then remove with my hands. I was very careful not to tear the hoses, it takes just a little rotation to beak the seal, so one can then remove.
Now to remove the screws. I started with the tool configuration lxlr8 shows and then modified it to what worked best for me. (Note: the shallowest socket you have the better off you are, because the tool operates best in the straightest line possible.). Be sure to look at where the holes are on the unit- one in bottom left corner; one top middle ;and one top right. Note: my unit only had 2 screws installed, will address later.
Once the screws are out you can begin the dance to get the unit out of the hole. It will be very helpful to you later if you can recall/rember the positions you had the unit in to extract it BCAUSE YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO REPEAT THEM TO GET IT BACK IN!
Used a clean rag to clean the opening for the unit. Started working to put the unit back in the hole. It came out it must go back in some way or the other, frustrating but finally got it back in. Now for the screws. Started with the top right screw and got it half way in, used that as a guide for bottom left screw. This one hard due to constricted area to work.
For some reason only two screws were installed on this BCM, there was not even a hole in the plenhamn, another screw up by Ford/Mercury. The only way I could solve this iss was to use a wood burned to burn a hole in the plenhamn so I could get a screw started. (Red hot nail might work). Now has 3 screws tightened down.
Tested and made sure blower fan still works, it does.
Reconnected everything.
5 - 6 hours from start to finish, including troubleshooting.
THANKS LXLR8. could not have done it withou you posting.
Hope this helps.
Madhatter
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