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Thread: New Member and 2003MM (Maryland)

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    59
    Posts
    150
    There really isn't a big rush as I will have to get it reinspected anyway. Re-inspection is $30 while new one is $65. I have other vehicles to drive so not necessary there either. I have to check the MVA website to see how long they give to get a good inspection on temporary tags. You are only about 20 minutes from me. Cool.

    Are the springs OEM? Why cut them? Also, I guess I should do shocks as well while there since they are probably original. Thoughts ..

    I just got gas and just had someone ask me about my marauder. Makes me feel better anyway. I know I will get there eventually.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Baltimore, Md.
    Age
    64
    Posts
    11,665
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    There really isn't a big rush as I will have to get it reinspected anyway. Re-inspection is $30 while new one is $65. I have other vehicles to drive so not necessary there either. I have to check the MVA website to see how long they give to get a good inspection on temporary tags. You are only about 20 minutes from me. Cool.

    Are the springs OEM? Why cut them? Also, I guess I should do shocks as well while there since they are probably original. Thoughts ..

    I just got gas and just had someone ask me about my marauder. Makes me feel better anyway. I know I will get there eventually.
    Springs are OEM take-offs from a low mile 2003 Marauder.
    I bought them from a fellow MM.net member who bought aftermarket springs for his Marauder way back in 2004 +/-.
    I wanted to cut them 3/4 of a coil for a lowered, yet not bone jarring ride height.
    Never got around to it.... like all the other parts that I've been selling recently....

    108,000 mile shocks probably should be replaced while they are doing the springs. It'll ride like new!

    Marauders are still very cool cars....(jaded opinion lol)
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
    w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
    Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
    Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
    B&M Trans cooler w/fan, Level 10 Shift Kit, Art Carr Hughes Deep Sump Trans Pan,
    SVO Rearend Girdle, Redline Gear lube; OEM 3.55s
    'Real Gauges' + matching Trans Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure, Vacuum/Boost Gauge
    Built: 10/15/02 Bought: 12/16/02 Sold: 10/15/18

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    59
    Posts
    150
    Sounds good. Starting to order parts.

    Suggestions for shocks? I know one of the rears was leaking as well. Should probably just do them all.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northeast OH
    Posts
    7,999
    Monroe severe duty is a common replacement, oem marauder spec ones are obsolete, ford offers grand marquis which is softer for marauder replacement.
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    59
    Posts
    150
    Are these the shocks suggested:

    Rear: MONROE 550018
    Front: MONROE 553001

    Thanks,
    Greg

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Age
    53
    Posts
    412
    That sound could possibly be an exhaust leak, I'd look under neath and while there have a listen around the flex plate, check the torque converter to flex plate bolts and the flex plate for any cracks. Is the sound there when car is placed in gear?

    Good luck and welcome to the club.
    1987 GN running 10's. 2003 MM Blue Sold and dearly missed!
    2003 Black 300B
    Procharger P1sc with air to air intercooler
    3,000 PI converter
    4.10 Eaton posi 31 spline carrier
    Moser 31 spline axles
    Koos headers, with custom stainless exhaust, Megs tips
    Carbon fiber drive shaft
    Metco control arms
    Every autometer procomp gauge in the catalogue

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northeast OH
    Posts
    7,999
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    Are these the shocks suggested:

    Rear: MONROE 550018
    Front: MONROE 553001

    Thanks,
    Greg

    Yes those are them..The front set up is similiar to strut/coilover, but I believe a member near you is helping with some parts so there will be some assembly/disassembly
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    59
    Posts
    150
    Great thanks

    Still gathering parts

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Baltimore, Md.
    Age
    64
    Posts
    11,665
    OEM Exhaust/Cats and front Springs delivered today!
    Nice to meet you Greg and hope the rest of the front suspension rework goes smoothly.
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
    w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
    Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
    Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
    B&M Trans cooler w/fan, Level 10 Shift Kit, Art Carr Hughes Deep Sump Trans Pan,
    SVO Rearend Girdle, Redline Gear lube; OEM 3.55s
    'Real Gauges' + matching Trans Temp, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure, Vacuum/Boost Gauge
    Built: 10/15/02 Bought: 12/16/02 Sold: 10/15/18

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD
    Age
    59
    Posts
    150
    Sent you a PM. Thanks. Found some slight movement in one of the lower ball joints. So, going to replace it all. Should I get the front end kit from Rockauto (Mavotech) or piece it together with moog? Got it all off already. Just need a good alignment after I get it back together.
    Last edited by Greg; 01-13-2018 at 05:27 PM.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Hey Greg:

    Welcome. Born/raised in MD grew up in Ellicott City. 1975 = Hicksville. Now : quite the tony suburb. Lots of Government manager types. Expect to sit a red light on Rt 40 and look around - you'll see a Prius and a Range Rover at every light. "Choose Civility" bumper stickers handed out by the Howard County Library - supposed to make the car jackers coming out from Baltimore City feel guilty. Lots of wonderful windy roads to cruise the MM!

    Check Rock Auto - a pair of front/rear cats is only $228, front Moog springs are $65 bucks. For the ball joint replace the whole aluminum control arm, note there is a big set of nuts /bolt on there probably need to go buy a 23 mm box wrench, and 21 mm socket, who has those? Get the Moog or a mid priced lower CA/ball joint assembly for about $120, the cheapest one has the big stabilizer shaft nut cranked tight! will be hell to put on, the Moog and others come loose, install then tighten that. Sway bar links are cheap and usually break when trying to get them off. I'd piece together unless you just love front end work, uppers are a pain.

    For MD - you can get a note from a doctor saying you need tint and the state will let it slide, (prior skin cancer, auto immune disease )

    MD insp tags used to be good for 30 days.

    oil adapter gasket is a pain but not expensive. It's only four/five bolts but have to drain coolant and oil to do it. and air burp the system.

    EATC might need new silicone o rings easy to do or send your unit out for repair, it's like $200 bucks. I got some extras laying around PM me if you want I'll mail them for free. You need four I think.

    If your tick is an injector maybe a mechanics stethoscope from harbor freight would help pinpoint the location. If it is from the timing cover might have timing chain guide issues. Used to be if it was a rod knock, deactivate each spark plug one at time and the spun rod bearing would quit making noise when that cylinder was unplugged.

    Nothing that can't be fixed.

    Cheers
    Mike

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    kansas
    Age
    33
    Posts
    19
    if you discover what that noise is please post your findings, mine is doing that exact same knock, and yes only when warm, i overheated mine and found out i was way low on coolant even though the overflow was at a normal level, i refilled and burped as per the procedure on this forum and the noise hasn't been as loud since but definitely still there

  13. #43
    Mine was ticking like that. Diesel oil fixed it. I've been running delo for a long, long time now. The car has over 200K.

    Edit. Specifically, I use this: http://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_...l#.WWU69YTythF

    A valve cover leak can cause your ignition code. If oil leaks around the plug and wicks up onto the plug, it carries carbon with it. Carbon is conductive and causes the spark to jump between the insulator and the ceramic instead of across the spark gap in the combustion chamber; especially when the cylinder pressures get higher and it takes more voltage to jump the spark gap.

    Look for oil down inside the spark plug hole around the plug and inside the coil insulator rubber.

    Change the plugs. If they're original, they're done. Could just be that.

    It could also be a loose plug; combustion gas leaking through/around the threads sounds like a tick noise...which usually becomes a boom noise before long.
    Last edited by ByronRACE; 01-15-2018 at 02:11 PM.

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by mm svt View Post
    You must use higher octane no option
    There's an option; recalibrate for low octane fuel. I run 87 in mine; getting it completely happy on 87 took about a week of tweaking. It makes 15ish hp less at peak power which I find to be hardly noticeable, and gets 22mpg reliably. The part throttle, low rpm, mid to high load area of the spark table took the biggest hit; I had to pull as much as 6deg of spark in some areas. I can feel that, but don't care much.
    Last edited by ByronRACE; 01-15-2018 at 02:15 PM.

  15. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by ncmm View Post
    Welcome Greg

    This may be your oil leak issue. . .

    http://www.instructables.com/id/Repl...dapter-Gasket/

    keep us all posted and enjoy your MM!
    I guess I should finish that instructable; I just wanted to make sure I captured the pictures for the o-rings somewhere and threw that together. Hope it helps, sorry it's minimal.

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