Guess they are red, grey/red, and two blacks! Weird they didn't use the same colors on the compressor.Originally Posted by justbob
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Guess they are red, grey/red, and two blacks! Weird they didn't use the same colors on the compressor.
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So here was my jump-wire benchtest! Two wires w/ stripped ends straight off the battery with the car running, into the two pinholes as shown in the picture below. The compressor never moved. Was this done correctly and my compressor is positively dead then?
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Sick-Speed play toy
Skip the pink altogether as it is for releasing air. The Grey/red hot is confirmed as the hot. This “shouldn’t” matter which of the two remaining wires you use as they are both listed as grounds. I’d try the other ground for kicks. Because if it is wired up separate internally then it would matter which.
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Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
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I ran the positive jumper to the grey/red and the negative jumper to the black wire on the flat side and got nothing. Are you suggesting I redo the test with the positive jumper to the grey/red and the negative jumper to the other black wire next to it instead of the one across from it?
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Sick-Speed play toy
Yes.
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SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Senior Member
Retested as described, positive to the Grey/Red, and negative jumper to the Black next to it. It did not run the compressor. Does this mean it's definitely dead then?
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Sick-Speed play toy
Dead dead.
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SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Senior Member
Dead, but maybe can be revived. Remove the 4 screws holding the pump to the electric motor (some may break, but as long as there's at least 1 good screw you should be okay. Now, without trying to pull the two halves apart, twist them until they break free from each other. You'll probably need to use a hammer to break through the crustiness.
If you can get the two halves to twist apart, screw them back together and the pump should work again. I was able to get a few more months out of a couple of air pumps by doing this. Not perfect, but buys you time while you source a proper replacement.
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Finally got around to replacing the compressor, bought the $120 one from Suncore, plugged it in and it started right up! Thank you to everyone who helped get me to the finish line of this project!
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