Brake bleeding question

[Svashtar]

As long as I'm replacing the rotors and calipers, I was going to bleed out the old original brake fluid. Plan was to start at the right rear, then left rear then move up to the front. (This assumes the ABS isn't mounted in the rear...)

My question is do I need to do anything with the ABS itself? I understand it requires a shop to bleed it? Is there a sensor I need to disconnect, or can I just bleed the 4 lines as normal?

Some say you need to change out the brake fluid every 2-3 years; I don't know about that, but at 14 years and 113K it seems like s good idea.

Thanks for any info on the ABS.


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[Pat]

Dealer has a device that hooks up to the ABS computer and activates each brake individually.

Don't know how much fluid is involved or how air is removed.

Maybe a trip to the dealer or someone here knows.

The dealer did mine some years ago. Didn't cost much IIRC.

[fastblackmerc]

You don't need to do anything with the ABS (mounted in the front) as long as you DO NOT let the master cylinder run dry.

I'd gravity bleed each line.

• Remove all the old brake fluid from the master cylinder. A turkey baster works well. I usually buy a few at the dollar store as you can use them for draining the power steering pump.
• Add fresh new fluid
• Open the RR line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Open the LR line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Open the RF line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Open the FL line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Top off the master cylinder.

NOTE: use clear tubing on each bleeder screw so the fluid doesn't get all over the place and you can see the color of the fluid.

[RF Overlord]

^^^what FBM said^^^ That's the way I do it.

[Svashtar]

You don't need to do anything with the ABS (mounted in the front) as long as you DO NOT let the master cylinder run dry.

I'd gravity bleed each line.

• Remove all the old brake fluid from the master cylinder. A turkey baster works well. I usually buy a few at the dollar store as you can use them for draining the power steering pump.
• Add fresh new fluid
• Open the RR line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Open the LR line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Open the RF line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Open the FL line and let the fluid out until it's clear - constantly checking the master cylinder level.
• Top off the master cylinder.

NOTE: use clear tubing on each bleeder screw so the fluid doesn't get all over the place and you can see the color of the fluid.

Outstanding, thanks FBM. I'm working alone so made up a bottle with 3/16" clear tubing and was planning on doing it that way, starting with fluid in the bottom of the bottle and pumping the brakes a couple of times per wheel, but then thought maybe I would affect the ABS.

Good idea on the turkey basters. I was going to use my red squeeze bulb thingy, but I've used it with other fluids, so probably not a great idea.

I'll take the master cylinder down to the min line, but to be safe won't go any lower.

Thanks again for laying it out!



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[fastblackmerc]

I installed these:

http://speedbleeder.com/

They even have them for the Wilwoods I have from TCE.

[fastblackmerc]

Outstanding, thanks FBM. I'm working alone so made up a bottle with 3/16" clear tubing and was planning on doing it that way, starting with fluid in the bottom of the bottle and pumping the brakes a couple of times per wheel, but then thought maybe I would affect the ABS.

Good idea on the turkey basters. I was going to use my red squeeze bulb thingy, but I've used it with other fluids, so probably not a great idea.

I'll take the master cylinder down to the min line, but to be safe won't go any lower.

Thanks again for laying it out!



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Take as much fluid out of the MC as you can. As long as you don't pump the brakes you won't get any air in the system.

[Svashtar]

Ok, thanks. I wasn't sure about that.

By the way, when compressing the pistons to change out the pads, do you open the bleeder screw to take off the pressure, or just let it backflow to the master cylinder, then remove the excess? I was going to bleed first, then r&r the pads compressing the pistons and letting it back glow, then remove excess as it backflowed, but someone told me to open the screw instead as I could damage the pistons. (?) I think the other day you mentioned you opened the screw as well, but that may have been another poster.

Seems simple enough, but everyone has their different ways of doing it!

Thanks again for the tips.



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[fastblackmerc]

Ok, thanks. I wasn't sure about that.

By the way, when compressing the pistons to change out the pads, do you open the bleeder screw to take off the pressure, or just let it backflow to the master cylinder, then remove the excess? I was going to bleed first, then r&r the pads compressing the pistons and letting it back glow, then remove excess as it backflowed, but someone told me to open the screw instead as I could damage the pistons. (?) I think the other day you mentioned you opened the screw as well, but that may have been another poster.

Seems simple enough, but everyone has their different ways of doing it!

Thanks again for the tips.



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Make sure there is room for the extra fluid, compress the piston(s), replace the pads then start the bleeding procedure.

To compress the piston(s) you can use a C clamp, extra large water pump pliers, or a specially designed compresser.

[Svashtar]

Got it, make room in the reservoir, change pads, then bleed last.

Think that may have been an advisement on a foreign car forum where they didn't want fluid flowing back to the master cylinder for some reason.

Really appreciate the help, thank you!


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[sailsmen]

~40 years ago I bought a spare reservoir cap and attached a container of brake fluid that was pressurized by a compressor.

Opened all 4 brake bleeders and turned on the compressor.

[massacre]

~40 years ago I bought a spare reservoir cap and attached a container of brake fluid that was pressurized by a compressor.

Opened all 4 brake bleeders and turned on the compressor.

I use a pressure bleeder, same principle

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...xoCo1gQAvD_BwE

That one is plastic and less expensive. Mine holds a gallon and is stainless steel with rubber bladder. Only needs like 15psi tof air pressure to work.
Saves so much time it's so worth it

[BAD MERC]

Pretty much DO NOT bleed your brakes by pushing the pedal to the floor while a helper opens the bleeder screws. This allows the brake pedal to push the master cylinder piston way beyond normal operating stroke and will usually ruin the master cylinder. The seals will be damaged and allow internal fluid passage after bleeding in such a manner.

[sailsmen]

I use a pressure bleeder, same principle

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...xoCo1gQAvD_BwE

That one is plastic and less expensive. Mine holds a gallon and is stainless steel with rubber bladder. Only needs like 15psi tof air pressure to work.
Saves so much time it's so worth it

I had a car that had a proportioning, not many had it back then, valve which made it difficult to bleed. So I came up with the system.

It worked well but the pressure regulator was not very accurate so I would have to monitor and manually release it.

[justbob]

Pretty much DO NOT bleed your brakes by pushing the pedal to the floor while a helper opens the bleeder screws. This allows the brake pedal to push the master cylinder piston way beyond normal operating stroke and will usually ruin the master cylinder. The seals will be damaged and allow internal fluid passage after bleeding in such a manner.

What? That's how I've done it for 30 years and never an issue.


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