I am curious why you thought old springs needed be replaced?
I am curious why you thought old springs needed be replaced?
IF ONE lets their shocks go bad coil springs go south fairly quickly.
I have found lots of mistakes in rock autos listings.
I checked Moog's website. Those are the correct listings. Basically 80668 is the police/taxi version and 81098 is the standard passaenger car version. The airbags also have the same 2 options, standard and Police/Taxi. The Marauder came from the factory with the Police/Taxi version front and rear.
You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference
I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard
2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)
The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies
Current marauders
04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
03 DBP Light Flint #122
03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
03 Black 300a
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works
04 Heaton Swapped DTR
Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread
Started off for wheel alignment and confirm balljoint was going then found the passenger spring was broke (at the bottom coil) sway bar links bad shape/rusted and broke with only a little pressure.... the 80668 make the car look like it's going to the moon, nose is way up in the air (it's raked to the back), The Moog guy seamed to understand right away, I hope the front isn't going to be soft, I'll find out next week. I'll try to upload a picture, can I copy/past onto the quick reply.... as far as cutting the spring, you have to feel a difference in the ride, I see the imports (granted) chopped down (alot maybe two or more coils) and look like a bouncing crappy ride. I haven't trying to get the springs from Ford probably because of cost, I'll call them next week and the Motorcraft dealer by me says the only pair of shocks are in Illinois and $189 each and he don't carry springs....
Question how long do the original shocks last?... to me springs should be changed at 100K at 90K mine were not as strong anymore anyway, so once everything was apart I figure to just replace it all... now headache
If you have (example) 800lb. spring and cut a coil, it's not 800lbs anymore (it's not fake just reality), maybe it only drops to 750 I don't know and I may have to do it, but as a last resort... I drive my car into turns and don't want a soft left front on a right hand turn... it's not good for my 'pursuit of happiness'. That's just me, if your happy with the cut, then that's all that really counts.
I have four panthers (2 Marauder's and 2 Sports) and they all sit at different ride heights stock, which I find bizarre.
I would think the spring coil and strength itself (compression strength) would not change too radically by cutting 1/2 to 1 coil, unless you heated the last coil or two to tap it and flatten the end.
By simply cutting the coil, you are only shortening the coil, not changing its overall thickness and structural rigidity of its spring quality/matric. Of course the coil is now shorter so you are diminishing the overall or total amount of possible compression...
1/2 coil cut netted my MM 3/4 of an inch lowering (max) which was perfect. I installed KYBs... I may try Monroe super duty shocks on next. I noticed no change whatsoever soft/hard/sloppy wise (except the improved lowered center of gravity improvement) due to cutting coil. *Note: If I did diminish my spring from 800 to 760 by cutting 3/4 coil, maybe the firmer shock offset? Car rides a little firmer, I assume due to the shock.
Next week I am cutting 3/4 coil off the RedSled because it sits so high that w 235/50 front and 265/50 rear their is almost negative rake like OP's car. Looking for it to drop 1 inch to 1 1/4 inch (only) in front so that it will simply look like stock Panther.
All of this was to say... Don't worry about cutting the coil. Just don't cut too much.
Btw I did test drive a MM that was "slammed". I recall guy said he cut 1.2 to 2 coils. It drove like a POS! I hated what they had done. And I swore if I ever cut... I'd rather it be .5 inch high, than .5 inch too low.
2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium
2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.
2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.
2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)
cutting THE LENGTH increases the rate i used 650 ish rate springs from a 69 429 torino in many of my old mustangs a third of a coil would raise the rate to 720 i might be off a bit as i have used 1/3 , 1/2 and a full coil cut offs. cutting with a torch can end up weakling the spring
Also increasing the rate might require much heavier shocks to control springs from bouncing.
My 1000 lb rate front springs i use double adjustable QA1 shocks. I had them rebuilt a while back and had forgotten my settings. I set them up at to low of an compression and rebound. Yesterday while installing my summer tires dropped the front shocks and went 2 clicks up on compression and rebound.
now the front end dosent bounce around hitting woopies.
my summer and winter tires also affect the ride
Winter using 265 x 50 x 15s F and 295 x 50 x 15s R.
Summer 285 x 30 x 18 F and 295 x 35 x 18 R
the winter tires ride best due to the taller rubber section both sets are the same diameter
Thanks ALL comments are greatly appreciated. I don't know how to get a picture on here... 'URL of your image http://' ?? I have a PNG File (.PNG) or a JPG File (.jpg). I'm not really computer literate.
Attached file?
This exactly what my Sport looks like.
2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium
2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.
2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.
2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)
I would be too embarrassed to drive that truck. And after already spending the money already and seeing the outcome I would have slid the jack right back up under there and got my grinder ready..
Did you torque down the A arms with the car in the air by chance?
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Last edited by justbob; 08-19-2018 at 08:33 AM.
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Someone else is doing the work, He should know that but I'll tell him to do that first before changing the springs, but do you really think that's going to lower the front 3"... I'm thinking.. nope.
I don't believe you want to crank the control arms when thry are suspended in air, you want weight of car on them to tighten
2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
Has supporting mods and stuff
Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.
R.I.P.
Rex "SC Cheesehead"
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