Okay, also on a side note, it doesn't blow till the engine is started.
Engine off, key turned on
Voltage from fuse to good ground 11.75v
Voltage across fuse 2.5v
Voltage across fuse after starting goes up to 5.2 then pops the fuse
Okay, also on a side note, it doesn't blow till the engine is started.
Engine off, key turned on
Voltage from fuse to good ground 11.75v
Voltage across fuse 2.5v
Voltage across fuse after starting goes up to 5.2 then pops the fuse
Why are you measuring voltage across the fuse terminals? The fuse has a variable resistance that depends on temperature and will not produce a useful/meaningful reading. Measure/probe positive voltage relative to chassis ground; that is meaningful. If you want to measure the current being absorbed by the circuit, you need to build a wiring harness that plugs in place of the existing fuse, and contains a fuse of the same value and an amp meter in series. Then, you can get a current reading with the key on/engine off when the fuse doesn't blow and compare that with what you think it should be. Once the fuse blows, you will have zero current so key on/engine on won't produce a reading other than "more than fuse value".
Haha, I'm just trying to provide as much information as I can bub.
That fuse provides power to the O/D cancel switch in the shifter, the A/C compressor clutch, the LCM, the instrument cluster and the volt and oil pressure gauges. You can try unplugging each of those things one at a time to find the part that's blowing the fuse.
The Blackbird
Trilogy #61
Driveway Queen
The Spruce Goose
2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
Daily Driver
I finally figured this out if anyone's interested
I'm interested Dusty
Yeah, tell us what it was...
The Blackbird
Trilogy #61
Driveway Queen
The Spruce Goose
2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
Daily Driver
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