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  #16  
Old 06-12-2018, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prg333 View Post
Once you do all that work with the chains and tensioners. Do people usually do the water pump,Upper and lower radior roses spark plugs and Crank shaft seal plus oil change?
I just did it, you might as well do the water pump, cam cover gaskets, oil filter adapter gasket. The crankshaft seal gets replaced with the timing cover gaskets.

It’s not a hard job, just lots of bolts and the passenger side cam cover sucks to remove and install.
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  #17  
Old 06-12-2018, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
I just did it, you might as well do the water pump, cam cover gaskets, oil filter adapter gasket. The crankshaft seal gets replaced with the timing cover gaskets.

It’s not a hard job, just lots of bolts and the passenger side cam cover sucks to remove and install.
I am almost done with my project, I had to swap heads too, but I think you should pretty much replace everything while you are in there in my opinion. water pump, oil pump, and all gaskets.

I pulled my engine to do mine so I also did the oil pan gasket and rear main seal.
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  #18  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:27 AM
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Check with local Mustangs owners / clubs in your area for mechanic recommendations.
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2018, 05:27 AM
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We recently had a clack sound, we first removed the driver side cam cover ( remove the wiper cowel first) rotated the engine over by hand and found the secondary cam tensioner was sticking before going back in. Pulled the engine out, removed the oil pan, timing cover and passenger cam cover. We inspected the internals, and replaced the cam tensioners only as the primary timing components were new last winter. We made a set of hoist brackets that are similar to the service manual (expensive) which make things easier for removal and installing.

I’m sure someone has and will again do this job by only removing the timing cover. After 200k miles it’s going to be dirty and need a good cleaning.

Tips: remove the power steering pump pulley to remove the pressure line to remove the bolt behind it.

There’s a special tool for the front timing cover seal that presses it in vs a hammer and board.

Use silicone on the lower alinement dowel pin, harmonic balancer key and both sides of where the head mates to the block and timing cover.
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2018, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mm svt View Post
We recently had a clack sound, we first removed the driver side cam cover ( remove the wiper cowel first) rotated the engine over by hand and found the secondary cam tensioner was sticking before going back in. Pulled the engine out, removed the oil pan, timing cover and passenger cam cover. We inspected the internals, and replaced the cam tensioners only as the primary timing components were new last winter. We made a set of hoist brackets that are similar to the service manual (expensive) which make things easier for removal and installing.

I’m sure someone has and will again do this job by only removing the timing cover. After 200k miles it’s going to be dirty and need a good cleaning.

Tips: remove the power steering pump pulley to remove the pressure line to remove the bolt behind it.

There’s a special tool for the front timing cover seal that presses it in vs a hammer and board.

Use silicone on the lower alinement dowel pin, harmonic balancer key and both sides of where the head mates to the block and timing cover.


Ratcheting wrench thru the PS pulley holes works great. No need to remove pulley or hose.


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  #21  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justbob View Post
Ratcheting wrench thru the PS pulley holes works great. No need to remove pulley or hose.


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Nice!!!
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  #22  
Old 06-13-2018, 10:10 AM
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If I was in your situation I'd consider a Coyote swap. They're starting to show up in salvage yards in wrecked Mustangs.
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  #23  
Old 06-13-2018, 12:37 PM
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What kind of modifications would have to be made to drop in a Coyote engine? It has more Horsepower Would I have to change the Exhaust system
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  #24  
Old 06-13-2018, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
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What kind of modifications would have to be made to drop in a Coyote engine? It has more Horsepower Would I have to change the Exhaust system
there is alot to do, it's not plug and play, exhaust, trans, tuning ,etc.
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  #25  
Old 06-13-2018, 03:27 PM
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A mechanic suggested that I get the oil drained out of my car and to break open the oil filter to check for any type of metal shavings among other things from Nylon to plastic pieces from the tensioners etc. It seems like the best thing to do before doing all the work opening up the engine cover. As it could be a metal mess inside the engine.

Also if I did get new tensioners chain and water pump seals valve covers etc. Since the engine would be running with more compression could that possibly blow out a head gasket. Someone else suggested rebuilding the engine. But that would be
quite costly.
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  #26  
Old 06-13-2018, 03:56 PM
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more compression blow out a headgasket? Whoooo is thissss mechanic?

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  #27  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:09 PM
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He thinking back did not say more compression. But he said the engine would be running smoother more efficiently with the the new chain and tensioners. As opposed to how it is running with the chain loose. So the said the car "could" blow out a head gasket. Is that information sketchy? I do not know enough about engines to make a judgement on his statement
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  #28  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:27 PM
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the chains are loose because a tensioner is failing, these are interference engines, meaning if timing of piston and valves is off too far they will hit and cause serious breakage of parts. your mechanic does not know mod. motors, theze are not pushrod motors.
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  #29  
Old 06-13-2018, 05:39 PM
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He did mention valves and pistons being off especially a piston doing damage
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  #30  
Old 06-13-2018, 06:24 PM
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I had the same problem on my 03 with 109000 miles Passenger side tensioner was toast. Replaced primary tensioners and chains in the car. Drove it last summer but had a ticking noise that was annoying so decided to pull engine to see if noise was a lash adjuster or valve guides. Lash adjusters were all hard as a rock but exhaust guides seemed loose. Engine still out and heads are off. Was amazed at the condition of the cylinder bores. No ridge and can still see the cross hatch pattern. Bottom line is some broken plastic pieces from the chain guides were inside the oil pickup tube blocking oil flow and I would not have found them without pulling the oil pan
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