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Thread: Boost gauge question

  1. #1

    Boost gauge question

    Hey all, the folks at Trilogy were kind enough to send me a PDF copy of the install manual. I've been reading through it trying to decide if I'm brave enough to attempt the install myself when I'm rich enough to buy my kit. Reading through it I noticed that the boost gauge provided is mechanical and it seems that the gauge with the fitting on the back is too deep to fit into my A-pillar pod where I'd like it to go. Can I use an electric gauge and sender instead? I thought I read previously that MM03MOK has her gauge in an A-pillar pod, so I know there must be a solution. Recommendations?
    2003 Mercury Marauder
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  2. #2
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    Last edited by Smokie; 01-17-2006 at 05:08 AM. Reason: Misread post.
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  3. #3
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    Scott, you are correct...I installed the supplied boost gauge in an A-pillar pod (stole the idea from Mac's car)...

    The Boost-A-Pump switch doesn't need to be attached directly to the back of the gauge. Go to your local NAPA and get their gauge installation kit, Balkamp part #701-2109. It includes an assortment of brass fittings & adaptors and a length of tubing. I used it to re-locate the switch to behind the driver's kick panel, a la carfixer/Tallboy. IIRC, the kit was under $10.
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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by RF Overlord
    Scott, you are correct...I installed the supplied boost gauge in an A-pillar pod (stole the idea from Mac's car)...

    The Boost-A-Pump switch doesn't need to be attached directly to the back of the gauge. Go to your local NAPA and get their gauge installation kit, Balkamp part #701-2109. It includes an assortment of brass fittings & adaptors and a length of tubing. I used it to re-locate the switch to behind the driver's kick panel, a la carfixer/Tallboy. IIRC, the kit was under $10.
    Excellent. Thank you. I'll print this out so I've got it when I'm ready to pull the trigger on the kit.
    2003 Mercury Marauder
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    1993 Crown Victoria LX

  5. #5
    you need to drill a hole in the A-pillar for the hose & wires (illumination) anyway, drill a 1" and there is more than enough room for the fitting.


    Quote Originally Posted by Fourth Horseman
    Hey all, the folks at Trilogy were kind enough to send me a PDF copy of the install manual. I've been reading through it trying to decide if I'm brave enough to attempt the install myself when I'm rich enough to buy my kit. Reading through it I noticed that the boost gauge provided is mechanical and it seems that the gauge with the fitting on the back is too deep to fit into my A-pillar pod where I'd like it to go. Can I use an electric gauge and sender instead? I thought I read previously that MM03MOK has her gauge in an A-pillar pod, so I know there must be a solution. Recommendations?

  6. #6
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    We also repainted the whole A-pillar and the new gauge holder piece so they match. The only available spray paint from the dealer is very, very slightly different, so matching those two pieces, you'd never know the difference.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakes_26
    you need to drill a hole in the A-pillar for the hose & wires (illumination) anyway, drill a 1" and there is more than enough room for the fitting.
    I didnt have to

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakes_26
    you need to drill a hole in the A-pillar for the hose & wires (illumination)
    Quote Originally Posted by Zack
    I didnt have to
    Neither did I... Could it be a difference in the manufacturer of the pod? I used an AutoMeter single, p/n 10111.
    Last edited by RF Overlord; 01-17-2006 at 11:10 AM.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack
    I didnt have to
    If you used an A-pillar pod, how did you get the boost line and electrical wires to the guage? Zack? RF?
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack
    I didnt have to
    I drilled for the hose and wires, but the fitting was fine

    edit* also I don't think I'll paint it, the gray meets the black on the head liner at the top, and the black in the gauge cluster at the bottom, I kinda like it how it is... but I'm slightly insane so there is something to be said about that too
    Last edited by RR|Suki; 01-17-2006 at 11:46 AM.


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy
    If you used an A-pillar pod, how did you get the boost line and electrical wires to the guage? Zack? RF?
    I think I know where the confusion is...I DID have to drill a hole in the pillar trim piece...I thought he was referring to the metal of the pillar itself...der...
    Last edited by RF Overlord; 01-17-2006 at 11:56 AM.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RF Overlord
    I think I know where the confusion is...I DID have to drill a hole in the platic pillar trim, just not in the metal of the pillar itself...der...
    Gotcha. Shakes said "A-Pillar" instead of "A-pillar Cover".

    All this confusion is clearly his fault, and I, for one, feel he should be dealt with most severely...
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  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by MM03MOK
    We also repainted the whole A-pillar and the new gauge holder piece so they match. The only available spray paint from the dealer is very, very slightly different, so matching those two pieces, you'd never know the difference.
    I've got a dual-gauge pod on there now, and I painted it the same way you did. If/when I get the s/c kit I'm planning on losing the A/F ratio gauge in the bottom spot in favor of the boost gauge.
    Last edited by Fourth Horseman; 01-17-2006 at 12:05 PM.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy
    Gotcha. Shakes said "A-Pillar" instead of "A-pillar Cover".

    All this confusion is clearly his fault, and I, for one, feel he should be dealt with most severely...
    Right. Kick his ass...
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy
    Gotcha. Shakes said "A-Pillar" instead of "A-pillar Cover".

    All this confusion is clearly his fault, and I, for one, feel he should be dealt with most severely...
    Hey, shakes is the electrical genius you other wrench turner bums are supposed to handle the grunt work! Dennis We ain't goin to take this laying down.
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