Probably is a good idea to look under the timing cover before any kind of work is done like a rebuild or even doing the tensioners and chains.
Probably is a good idea to look under the timing cover before any kind of work is done like a rebuild or even doing the tensioners and chains.
Most reputable shops would not perform work such as timing chains on a 200,000 mile engine with all kinds of floating debris in the oil. There is no kind of guarantee how long it would last before something else failed and they have a name to protect. It’s just smart business.
Personally if I were on a budget, I would prefer to have a lower mile clean engine installed over a rebuild. I’ve seen way too many rebuilds fail. Same goes for the trans.
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Yes that is probably a Good way to go and try to get a clean good engine Lower miles possibly Then rebuilding an engine with so many miles. I can find one one that’s reasonably priced That’s not going to have some kind of other problem if it wasn’t maintained well when it was in the car
It's hard to believe you had no indication of wear such as chain rattle or particles in the oil. I would scope the cylinder walls do a compression test & leak down. Based on results either swap out motor or install new chain tentioners and guides. then new coils on plugs & sparkplugs.
2004 marauder black purchased new. Sold 9/16 at 297,000 miles. Still ran strong didn't burn a drop of oil.
2003 marauder black 28,000 miles all stock. Garage Queen.
2004 marauder red daily driver.
I should get the guy to pull the timing cover. Yes a compression test would be a good idea
Before any work could be done at all yes those things would be good thank you for the good suggestions advice
I’m thinking of that option possibly. The car is very clean no rust the paint looks good all around still. Very clean underneath no leaking of anything. I could have them do a compression test to see how the engineers and all the cylinders. Based on that and pulling the timing cover I think I would probably go with doing the tensioners in chains rather than a rebuild for 6000. Hopefully doing the tensions chains water pump spark plugs will get me another 40,000 miles or so with that engine
pull the timing cover and pull the engine oil pan. find the source of the metal. then you can make an educated decision based on the facts and evidence.
btw, worn timing chain guides will cause aluminum in the oil.
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E Transmissions, check out my Facebook page for my latest project; https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
Thank you for the advice to pull the engine oil pan do you have to take the engine out of the car can you do without removing the engine. Someone told me you can only do it by taking the engine out. This may be incorrect. The thinking from the mechanic that the aluminum came from the wearing of the Timing chain and guides. But it could be coming from some other part of the engine possibly as well. But checking those two things the timing cover and the oil pan would give a better picture of what’s happening But aluminum in the oil obviously is not very good for parts of the engine causing wear And possible failure of other parts of the engine pistons, rods etc..
Last edited by prg333; 07-02-2018 at 01:52 PM.
Engine out or K member dropped.
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Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Tell you this.
You really should replace the oil pump, the pan has to come off to do it
If you had a bunch of metal go through the engine, the pump will fail. Your bearings might be ok since they are filtered.
You can almost sell yours and buy another and be money ahead, with a lower mile mm
The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies
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03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
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Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread
exactly my point. we dont know how much metal there acutally is, if any, or where it came from. is the shop just telling the owner there is metal because its high mileage and he doenst want to work on it?
remove the oil pan, remove the front cover and inspect for damage. show us the metal debris and the damage then the owner can make an educated decision based on facts.
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E Transmissions, check out my Facebook page for my latest project; https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
drop the K member and oil pan comes off with no problem.
been there, done that ... got the T-shirt
Last edited by 88grandmarq; 07-02-2018 at 06:56 PM.
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E Transmissions, check out my Facebook page for my latest project; https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
Yes I was thinking the oil pump would have to be replaced also and of course the oil pan would have to be taken down. True maybe I could sell my car for a decent price and then get a lower mileage marauder. Not sure what I could get for it with those high miles except for the engine Needing to be worked on everything else About the car is in good shape especially with the air-conditioning system I got everything we done including the blend door lots of hoses pipes crossover tube. The air-conditioning works better now than it has in years. When it’s waxed and polished up it really looks good as the paint has really held up No rust on the car either as it’s not ever driven in the winter
Good point about pulling the Oil pan and front cover. To see if there’s more debris . And damage as well. I think you have to drop the K Member to get to the oil pan the only other option I know is to take out the engine. To get to the oil pan. By doing those things yes would definitely give a better picture of how much damage may have been done
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