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Thread: Trunklid Liner and Underhood Insulator

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Knoxville TN
    Age
    67
    Posts
    10,717

    Trunklid Liner and Underhood Insulator

    With instructions.

    Here is the trunklid liner. I got the metallic silver lettering and outline. Notice how well it goes with the SS Inserts. Notice the "U" in the embroidery? It looks misaligned but look at the "U" in the bumper. I had never noticed it before. The embroidery was intentionally made to match the bumper lettering.


    The retainers come with the liner, along with velcro if you prefer to use it. The mounting holes align with some pre-existing holes in the trunklid but they will not fit the retainers and must be drilled out, I believe to 1/4". BE VERY CAREFUL DRILLING, WHEN THE BIT GOES THROUGH THE METAL IT CAN EASILY BUMP AGAINST THE INSIDE OF YOUR TRUNK LID AND CREATE A DIMPLE. A drill collar could be useful if you have one.

    I helped them work on Todd's car, and I noticed that the backing board and material had enough waste to be trimmed off that the liner could be made to cover the back of the trunklid easily down to the latch. They agreed to do that on mine and will offer it as an option for anybody interested. I might mention an option at no additional cost.


    If you look at Todd's pictures you see that the standard one ends at the electrical connector for the trunklid latch and backup lights. If you don't want to mess with anything electrical that may be the way to go, but it's really simple to move the electrical wiring connections. Just unplug two connectors, pull three or the retaining plugs out of their holes, route the wire inside the trunklid and back out an access hole, reconnect the connectors, and press the retainers into holes from the backside of the trunklid. The only additional attaching equipment is a piece of the "sticky" half of velcro which holds the driver side corner down.


    The underhood insulator was made from a kit to fit my OEM insulator. My original had been damaged in a few spots from engine mods that made contact with it. It was ripped from the EGR valve (associated with the PHP intake spacer) and had a hole punched in it from the water filler in the coolant crossover tube (due to a "special" mod I had done). It also had a few rub marks from contact with other things but they weren't bad enough to make repairs on. Notice that the embriodery on mine is higher than Todd's, that is because of the location of one of my mods. I think it still looks great up high, maybe even better up there at eye level! I did notice that slightly below where the coolant tube was making contact there was a spray pattern from liquid on the pulleys. That would probably not be real attractive sprayed on the embroidery, so watch out for that spot when doing an install.


    Here is a closeup of the embroidery, if you look closely you can see the hole that we made to accomodate the coolant filler cap and you can barely make out the indentation from the coolant crossover tube.


    Here is another shot where you can see the hole we made to clear the EGR valve. If you look at Todd's you will see that the clearance problems with his car were on the opposite side. I'm not sure why that is, but mine only had some minor rub marks on the driver side so I chose not to make cutouts.


    And another shot of the holes. Notice the one at the EGR valve happens to be at a section of the reinforcement in the hood. That may be why I had some interference there. I noticed that at least one of Todd's clearance problems was at the edge of the reinforcement.


    Here is one option if you have minor contact but nothing sharp (Todd had sharp edges) or moving (such as a Trilogy pulley) is making contact. I put a piece of the "smooth" half of velcro on the coolant crossover pipe where it contacts the underhood insulator. There are other options, such as using velcro to stick a protective layer to the liner itself (there is actually enough extra material to make a protective cover to keep the embroidery clean until "showtime").


    I'll probably come up with something different in the future as far as a protectant, but I was out of time today.

    The cutouts were easy to make. They look good. The liner kit install will probably take most people a couple of hours. If you have a stocker and don't intend to do major engine mods, the kit or complete liner will be fine. If you have mods and need cutouts made, get the kit. If anybody in the ATL area has a Trilogy and wants to visit Rich, I'm sure he would be willing to take the measurements for a "standard" pulley clearance hole so you could order complete liners for Trilogy cars.

    Smokie, your liner may still be salvageable if you're interested.
    Last edited by FordNut; 06-16-2005 at 07:16 AM.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Knoxville TN
    Age
    67
    Posts
    10,717
    Quote Originally Posted by MM03MOK
    Brian - see the UBBCode under Additional Info? Copy the whole line including the bracketed IMGs. Paste into the post and preview...pics will show in thread.
    Got it... Thanks.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  3. #3
    Great info man!

    thanks!

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