Ride 1: 2003 300-A MM, black (naturally), K&N cold air, Granitelli Racing coils, Kybe shocks, Autometer "real" oil pressure and voltmeter, 14 inch front rotors and stainless lines from TCE with 6-piston Wilwood calipers and Hawk HPS pads, cryo-treated slotted rear rotors with TCE stainless lines and Hawk HPS pads, tune by Lidio, LED headlamps. Coming Soon: LED foglights, 200 Amp Alternator.
Ride 2: 2001 Kenny Brown "Panther 2" Crown Victoria, Black. K&N cold air intake to Allen Engine Development supercharger system with water-to-air intercooled Eaton MP-90 at 8 pounds. Extensive chassis bracing, Brembo 4-piston front calipers on 13 inch rotors with stainless lines. Trunk-relocated Optima Red-Top. 5000K Bi-Xenon HID's. And much, much more.
“When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
Ronald Regan
"The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."
Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters
“Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
"I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
General James Mattis
So, where do you get the cam locking tool? I can only find it as part of a kit for $150+.
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"Beast, Jr."
2003 300 A, 4.10:1 gear, JLT CAI, Marty tune, Nitto 420S and 555 tires, NGK TR55 plugs, J-mod, Skull lock knobs, and a new windshield
I bought mine from another member here. Someone else might have one for sale. BTW, I suggest based on my initial reading of the disassembly process you will want the Ford shop manual for the MM. Unless, of course, you have a member living near you who can help with the job. Living in fabulous Warsaw Indiana I am not so fortunate.
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Ride 1: 2003 300-A MM, black (naturally), K&N cold air, Granitelli Racing coils, Kybe shocks, Autometer "real" oil pressure and voltmeter, 14 inch front rotors and stainless lines from TCE with 6-piston Wilwood calipers and Hawk HPS pads, cryo-treated slotted rear rotors with TCE stainless lines and Hawk HPS pads, tune by Lidio, LED headlamps. Coming Soon: LED foglights, 200 Amp Alternator.
Ride 2: 2001 Kenny Brown "Panther 2" Crown Victoria, Black. K&N cold air intake to Allen Engine Development supercharger system with water-to-air intercooled Eaton MP-90 at 8 pounds. Extensive chassis bracing, Brembo 4-piston front calipers on 13 inch rotors with stainless lines. Trunk-relocated Optima Red-Top. 5000K Bi-Xenon HID's. And much, much more.
YOU DO NOT NEED A CAM LOCKING TOOL.
It takes 10 minutes to time a mod motor, without any significant automotive background needed. You line up 2 dots, not difficult. Plenty of videos on youtube.
I get all the info I need and more from alldatadiy.com.
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SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Ok, then I won't be concerning myself with that tool.
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"Beast, Jr."
2003 300 A, 4.10:1 gear, JLT CAI, Marty tune, Nitto 420S and 555 tires, NGK TR55 plugs, J-mod, Skull lock knobs, and a new windshield
I have a subscription to that site. But I haven't paid it much attention for a while. I guess it couldn't hurt to load it up and review some of it. Just don't remember if I set the initial car to the Marauder or my Buick. Only have one listed on it.
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"Beast, Jr."
2003 300 A, 4.10:1 gear, JLT CAI, Marty tune, Nitto 420S and 555 tires, NGK TR55 plugs, J-mod, Skull lock knobs, and a new windshield
Thank you for the list Zack. Very handy.
I would like to add the balancer bolt. This is the one i ordered.
F5RZ-6A340-B
The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies
Current marauders
04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
03 DBP Light Flint #122
03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
03 Black 300a
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works
04 Heaton Swapped DTR
Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread
Is it just me or does the Moca timing set 89$ look exactly... and I mean exactly the same as the FRPP timing set. $549
The Moca unit does not include new bolts or screws. The $89 units use plastic guides. Melling makes 2 kits with steel guides. The better one is $508
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Last edited by BLACKMARAUDER04; 04-22-2021 at 07:10 AM.
It is time to add to this post with my experience 2004 Marauder with 148 K. I have start up rattle and metal sheen in the oil. I have all the Ford parts needed to complete this job including OEM oil pump. I have not yet pulled the timing cover but I am almost ready. All bolts are out except power steering. It seems cam covers should be removed and the oil pan. I want to change the oil pump and clean the pickup more likely than not. I would appreciate a simple opinion based on what is best practice. Remove the timing cover first and to see first hand damage will guide my decisions but I am inclined to just rebuild all worn items while it is open. I plan on keeping my black Marauder for at least 100 k more. I own a 2004 Silver Marauder. I have all the parts and the time to do it but taking out the oil pan may prove to be a painful overkill. Comments please but understand my Marauders are keepers. Original 2004 owner who will always keep them.
From my experience you can’t drop the pan unless you lower the K member down or remove the engine.
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SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
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