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Thread: Engine Whistle

  1. #1
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    Engine Whistle

    I am now hearing a slight whistle sound after letting off on the throttle. Under excelleration and constant speed there is no sound. It is a high pitched by very slight whistle sound. I can really hear it now since the interior had sound deadening installed.

    I think I tracked it down to the part in the attachment. With a mechanics scope touching the metal ring it is more prominant.

    What is this part and how difficult to replace? It looks like there is a pipe coming off the back that could make it more difficult to replace.

    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    I think Bubb Rubb is the expert on this issue.
    Don't bring skittles to a gunfight.

  3. #3
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    The exhaust gas regulator/ EGR. Could just be a leak at the big nut.


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  4. #4
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    This is the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve. Very easy to replace. I just replaced mine two weeks ago. It only took ten minutes. First, make sure all the hoses are secure and it's not something simple like a loose hose. If you have to get a new OEM one, it's about $190 at Tasca Ford or $100 at Rockauto.com. Aftermarket stores like Advanced Auto and NAPA will have it for $150.

    https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...egr+valve,4968

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...Term=EGR+Valve

  5. #5
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    This is a decent video with step-by-step instructions on how to replace the EGR valve:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r98kyXmME1Q

  6. #6
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    That video is very helpful. Hopefully that bolt will come off easily. Would this have had to be disconnected during the engine rebuild? If so, perhaps it won't be too bad since it has been only a couple of months and not very many miles.

    Guess I should check to make sure the bolt is tight first before replacing.

    I think I am right about the whistling location - has anybody else found this to be the case?

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    That video is very helpful. Hopefully that bolt will come off easily. Would this have had to be disconnected during the engine rebuild?

    I am assuming that you had the upper intake manifold taken off during the rebuild, so yes you probably had the EGR valve disconnected / removed as well.

  8. #8
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    The pipe could be seated incorrectly. Loosen big nut, then remove the two bolts holding the EGR. Walk the nut off and make sure the threads are good, then walk it back in and hand tighten. Reinstall the two bolts, then tighten nut.

    If you attempt to just install the tube without having the EGR very loose it will cross thread and/or just complicate an easy job.


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phrog_gunner View Post
    I think Bubb Rubb is the expert on this issue.


    Can I get a woooo WHOOOO?


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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  10. #10
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    Thanks much. Will let you know what I find when I get a change to work on it.

  11. #11
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    Awesome assist!


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  12. #12
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    1/8 of a turn of nut. Problem solved. Thanks.

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